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Old 06-17-2007, 08:58 AM   #8656
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So how are people getting the new uprights to work with the "old" original arms?
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Old 06-17-2007, 09:01 AM   #8657
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im pretty sure its just the cut out dont hold me to it though
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Old 06-17-2007, 09:03 AM   #8658
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just use a Dremel and grid it to match the new ones as much as possible
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Originally Posted by thunderbt3 View Post
So how are people getting the new uprights to work with the "old" original arms?
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Old 06-17-2007, 07:12 PM   #8659
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Can someone ask Brian Thomas to please post his 1:10 scale set-up from the Capital Classic at 301 on here. I would appreciate it.
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Old 06-17-2007, 07:28 PM   #8660
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TomB View Post
i have a 4mm knack chassis which is not milled, so it is substantially stiffer than the kawaharra. i found with the 4mm chassis the car was too twitchy, and slightly too responsive to small steering movements. if you are a smooth driver it would be good i guess, but i tryed it about 4 months ago after a long stint not racing, and i didn't like it. (the meet previous to using the 4mm chassis i used the stock 3mm chassis and went alot better)


i will try the 4mm chassis again probably, but i don't see myself sticking to it.
in some cases this is true for some ppl to have the car easier to drive,
i have the same chassis and i need that kind of steering and yes the kknack is more responsive than the kawaharra

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yeah ive got the new lower arms, but what i am asking is, is there a change in the lower arms geometry? or is the change in the lower arms just the cut out section?

i noticed the new arms have the pin holes cut out in the arm in a upwards angle, (ie kicking it kick up) i didn't notice this with the old arms
i did not see this but ill look again,i thought the cutouts where just for the knuckle
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Old 06-17-2007, 07:31 PM   #8661
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Originally Posted by HarKonnenD View Post
I keep asking Qs because I'm use to the bottom end on the Rody tuned V12 and Nova motors. I really won't require a lot of top end, but hows it stack upto the Nova plus 12 sct?
the novarossi plus 12 is harder to tune
its hard to explain i just like the workmanship of the ninja and it runs nice.
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Old 06-20-2007, 04:34 PM   #8662
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anyone has tried a one way solid axle? such as atomic
just wondering it it is good quality
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Old 06-21-2007, 03:12 AM   #8663
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Originally Posted by Seisick View Post
anyone has tried a one way solid axle? such as atomic
just wondering it it is good quality
I dont know about Atomic, but the Mugen and Kawahara oneway diff's are the best ones on the market
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Old 06-21-2007, 05:08 AM   #8664
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Starting from the stock set-up, what do you guys do to stop traction roll?
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Old 06-21-2007, 06:47 AM   #8665
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Quote:
Originally Posted by itchy b View Post
I dont know about Atomic, but the Mugen and Kawahara oneway diff's are the best ones on the market
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Old 06-21-2007, 06:55 AM   #8666
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JetMD View Post
Starting from the stock set-up, what do you guys do to stop traction roll?
if you are running a 1 way this can be a problem
try standing the shocks 1 hole.
but if you run on a small track try a diff up front and use 30.000 oil and the rear use 10.000, this is easy to drive this way and you can never traction roll,
but it may be a tad slower in the corners.

with running diffs my shocks are
front, piston 1.2 oil 450, spring purple
rear, piston stock, oil 450, spring light blue.

tires 37 or 40.
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Old 06-21-2007, 07:03 AM   #8667
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wallyedmonds View Post
if you are running a 1 way this can be a problem
try standing the shocks 1 hole.
but if you run on a small track try a diff up front and use 30.000 oil and the rear use 10.000, this is easy to drive this way and you can never traction roll,
but it may be a tad slower in the corners.

with running diffs my shocks are
front, piston 1.2 oil 450, spring purple
rear, piston stock, oil 450, spring light blue.

tires 37 or 40.
Well, actually I had traction roll on a big, high bite track running 42's front and rear. I was using a one-way with 50K oil in the rear diff. Thanks for the advice though.
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Old 06-21-2007, 07:19 AM   #8668
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JetMD View Post
Well, actually I had traction roll on a big, high bite track running 42's front and rear. I was using a one-way with 50K oil in the rear diff. Thanks for the advice though.
try a spool up front. thats what we all run up here and it works great.
oil in the rear 30.000
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Old 06-21-2007, 01:08 PM   #8669
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I'm going to be putting my MTX-4 up for sale in the next few days for a pretty good price. Front & rear universals, Kawahara one-piece engine mount, hubs and rollover bar plus a few 3Racing upgrades. No electronics or engine. If you're interested in picking it up before it's posted in the For Sale section, send me a PM.
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Old 06-21-2007, 01:23 PM   #8670
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rmdhawaii View Post
I'm going to be putting my MTX-4 up for sale in the next few days for a pretty good price. Front & rear universals, Kawahara one-piece engine mount, hubs and rollover bar plus a few 3Racing upgrades. No electronics or engine. If you're interested in picking it up before it's posted in the For Sale section, send me a PM.
So if you sell this and that..... what car do you have now ?

I'm selling my G4S ( I bought NT1 ).

And I don't dare to sell my Mugens j/k
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