Ask Aaron Waldron
#2041
Tech Rookie
sirio .12 crank
djk,
I wish I could fix the threaded section. Unfortunately, it is all one piece. Once the thread is gone, it is gone. Cannot glue some more. I tried JB Weld on the entire assembly, and it only lasted one race . Take care.
Ruben
I wish I could fix the threaded section. Unfortunately, it is all one piece. Once the thread is gone, it is gone. Cannot glue some more. I tried JB Weld on the entire assembly, and it only lasted one race . Take care.
Ruben
#2042
Wow. Only a 25-30 minute break in? That is too good to be true. I thought I'd be running 10 tanks through this this. But shouldn't I take it easy and keep from pinning the throttle for the first few tanks or so after the break in?
Originally posted by Aaron Waldron
Pardon the broken engrish..I didn't type this
From the very 1st time you start your engine, plop the car on the
ground & begin running it in a parking lot in 2-3 minute intervals,
tuned only *slightly rich* getting the temps up in the 200F range on a
normal day. Every 2-3 minutes, shut the engine down & let it cool
completely with the piston at BDC, and then fire it back up; continue
this cycle until you've run 15 min or so, and then bump up to 3-4
minute intervals. Vary the RPM and don't be afraid to get the temps
in the 200's. What you want is heat cycling of the components without
the incredible stress that comes with breaking an engine in when it's
overly rich & cold. After cycling the engine in this manner for about
20-25 total minutes, it'll be ready for the track and race tuning.
It's all about helping the newbies..without you guys, we wouldn't have a hobby!
Pardon the broken engrish..I didn't type this
From the very 1st time you start your engine, plop the car on the
ground & begin running it in a parking lot in 2-3 minute intervals,
tuned only *slightly rich* getting the temps up in the 200F range on a
normal day. Every 2-3 minutes, shut the engine down & let it cool
completely with the piston at BDC, and then fire it back up; continue
this cycle until you've run 15 min or so, and then bump up to 3-4
minute intervals. Vary the RPM and don't be afraid to get the temps
in the 200's. What you want is heat cycling of the components without
the incredible stress that comes with breaking an engine in when it's
overly rich & cold. After cycling the engine in this manner for about
20-25 total minutes, it'll be ready for the track and race tuning.
It's all about helping the newbies..without you guys, we wouldn't have a hobby!
#2043
Aaron...
Cool, That is a bummer.
Last edited by Orange; 01-28-2005 at 10:42 AM.
#2045
Hardly a weak point..I haven't heard of a broken one since the three I got when you broke yours!
Sean - If I go, I'll be using some of Losi's entries. I already have a really busy travel schedule..haha.
DJ Normal - I would take it easy for the first 45 minutes or so on your engine..but you'll know when it starts to break in, and it's alright to run it hard around the track; I'd advise against holding it at WOT for any period of time, possibly letting off to 1/2 throttle on the straight.
Sean - If I go, I'll be using some of Losi's entries. I already have a really busy travel schedule..haha.
DJ Normal - I would take it easy for the first 45 minutes or so on your engine..but you'll know when it starts to break in, and it's alright to run it hard around the track; I'd advise against holding it at WOT for any period of time, possibly letting off to 1/2 throttle on the straight.
#2046
Originally posted by Aaron Waldron
I'd advise against holding it at WOT for any period of time, possibly letting off to 1/2 throttle on the straight.
I'd advise against holding it at WOT for any period of time, possibly letting off to 1/2 throttle on the straight.
#2048
Bingo! Stuff like yours was a freak accident..haha.
Normal - After it's fully broken in, then it's alright..but still not a good idea for more than 150 feet or so. It's too hard on the rod.
Normal - After it's fully broken in, then it's alright..but still not a good idea for more than 150 feet or so. It's too hard on the rod.
#2050
Need some help. How would you gear a MF2 with the stock 86 tooth spur gear. Motor would be an Epic 19 turn?
Any advice would be appreciated.
Team Fusion
Team Tekin
BKPaintwerks.com
Any advice would be appreciated.
Team Fusion
Team Tekin
BKPaintwerks.com
#2051
Tech Prophet
iTrader: (34)
I gear about 2 teeth above stock. I would gear around 19/86 for short track. 20/86 for large track. I have not run my Epic 19T yet but I gear my element 20/86 but it has a full blank arm with more torque then the epic motors. I am not aaron but he usually pawns these questions onto me anyway since he does not run 19T
#2052
Thanks for the quick reply Casper. I was going to start with an 18 tooth and go from there.
Team Fusion
Team Tekin
BKPaintwerks.com
Team Fusion
Team Tekin
BKPaintwerks.com
#2053
HeY hEy!!!
Aaron what do you mean by sidebite??? prolly dumb question but i've never really heard of that and is it important, and how do you know when you gain or loose it???? Thanx!!!
Aaron what do you mean by sidebite??? prolly dumb question but i've never really heard of that and is it important, and how do you know when you gain or loose it???? Thanx!!!
#2054
Tech Prophet
iTrader: (34)
Side bite is traction when the truck turns. It keeps the truck from spinning out. Some changes add forward bite to the rear end which helps with accleration and others give you more side bite which keep the truck from spinning in the corners. Too much side bite will keep the truck from rotating though and can cause a push.
#2055
HeY hEy!!!
Thanx casper i understand now, it's just that not many people are worried about it out where i race unless they just don't mention it.
Thanx casper i understand now, it's just that not many people are worried about it out where i race unless they just don't mention it.