Midnight

iTrader: (87)

I think inside the place where the axle goes into.

Hoggy

iTrader: (26)

its interesting that you say the front bomber belt makes a difference I will have to get one and see for myself, has anyone tried the rear bomber belt as well?

TurboT

iTrader: (1)

I believe the rear belt is too small for the TC5, if I'm not mistaken. You shouldn't need the rear belt anyway. It seems to be able to run more than loose enough. It just seems the fronts end up being too tight. I stretched my stock belt manually, and it isn't too bad, but I'm really looking forward to trying out the AE low-friction units.

Dasupacat1

iTrader: (25)

Is that correct? I have a oneway that came with the car. Wasn't aware of an oring going into the drive cups. Can someone verify this?

TurboT

iTrader: (1)

The AE one-way doesn't have grooves for the o-rings that the diffs have.

Brandon Melton

iTrader: (7)

You don't have to use the o-rings in the one way. As a matter of fact when I put them in, it limited the suspension travel because the dogbone hit the o ring.

Hebiki

iTrader: (26)

Hey guys, i was checking my car for tweak yesterday.. and I wanted to compile a checklist. Please add to this checklist if i forgot something.

Check for the following..
- chassis is flat
- bent hinge pins
- shock lengths
- droop measurements

did i miss anything else?

i.a.s

just something that I check is that the shock mounts are all tight I had the rear that was loose didnt notice it for ages just couldnt understand what was wrong due to being loose it moved up on left hand bends.

G2B Anthony

-left/right weight balance
-spring lengths
-shock rebound lengths

Hebiki

iTrader: (26)

Here's a more thorough checklist for checking tweak:

- chassis is flat
- bent hinge pins
- shock lengths
- droop measurements
- left/right weight balance
- spring lengths
- shock rebound lengths
- shock mount

thanks for the help guys.

Verndog

iTrader: (16)

I setup my aluminum outdrives onto the rear diff this week and have a question. The outdrives have the wider slot for the dogbones, and the stock diff nut with plastic barrel is way small in the drive slot. Plus...to make matters worse, the plastic barrel appears to only come as a kit with the plastic outdrives.

I have it working, but would like to know if there is anything better fitting that doesn't come as a kit??

Brandon Melton

iTrader: (7)

There may be something from the offroad kits that fit tighter, but the plastic one works fine. There are white diff nuts that have the threads built into it rather than using a lock nut, but the size of the knubs on them probably aren't bigger. My alum outdrives have worked fine with the kit barrel. I'm not sure if the barrels are available seperatly or not, have you checked the manual for a part number to see if it's different?

B4james

iTrader: (13)

When runnning the aluminum outdrives you need the plastic blades which go on the driveshafts, this takes up the gap and protects the aluminum from chewing out. There is also a larger plastic t-nut but not sure of the part number

Verndog

iTrader: (16)

I figured they would work OK...the tab is mostly to prevent turning while adjusting / tightening and that seems OK.

Yes...I checked the part number from manual, and that leads to the full set of plastic outdrives. I saw the white ones your refering to show up in a search. I may give those a try rather then throw away plastic outdrives everytime I want to replace the diff nut.

The blades are fine, I'm asking about the diff nut. If you find that part number please post it.
Thank You.

tcmerf

Ok i have a really dumb question with regards to the rear toe in. Is it measured per side or total. I am pretty sure it is per side but would just like to know for sure.