Slapjack

iTrader: (19)

Yea, that's what I was looking for. Thanks. If using these am I supposed to also use the front upper "shim" - p/n 361173?
http://www.discountrcstore.com/XRAY_...m_p/361173.htm

BentKa

Using only the stock steering brace that connects the steering posts will add flex and steering and is what we run for low grip.

But you can also choose to run the front upper X-brace.

This will take away some steering and front grip but add stability on power in higher grip parts of the track.

Bent

atipowered

Bentka I have short links for low grip as you recommend in a before post.Do you recommend 1 degree downward position of hinge pins at front and 1 degree upwards at rear?

Thanks

BentKa

We usually run the hinge pins on the inside and down or middle on low grip.

Bent

atipowered

And the long front bushing better down or up?

bounced

So what do you guys count as a "coil"?

Is it just the flat part on the top of the spring, or are you doing a actual coil? So like a coil and half?

BentKa

Start where the spring start and go one full rotation (360 degrees) and cut where the spring meets itself again.

Bent

BentKa

There's no "better"………it all depends on the track.

It's very easy and quick to try both positions and you only ave to readjust you ride height after changing.

Bent

bounced

So the spring on the left is cut to much? We were thinking a actual coil. So your cutting where the arrow points?

BentKa

Yes……where the arrow points.

And we run this side of the spring pointing up.

Bent

bleomycin

Hi Everyone,

I recently built 2 2016 XB4's for myself and a friend. They've been amazing but i'm struggling with setup.

Using the Hudy Universal Exclusive Set-Up System (1/10 Off-Road HUD108905) along with the Hudy set-up board and the Hudy 20mm Droop Gauges I set the ride height to exactly 20mm following the instructions in the setup manual (dropping the car).

I then set the camber and toe to 0 front and rear as a starting point on the setup system making sure to hold the car down onto the 20mm setup blocks while making my adjustments.

However, when I put the wheels back on the car I end up with positive camber! Usually about +2-+3. I must be doing something wrong but I'm not sure what?

Any help is greatly appreciated!

timannnn6

iTrader: (140)

Make sure when you're checking the camber after dropping the car you are pushing the tires (from the lower inside) outward. This represents the load pushing the tires when driving. It gets you a more consistent reading ever time.

bleomycin

Thanks for the reply! Using this method there does seem to be enough play in the system that I was able to get a reading of 0 with the tires on the car (is it normal to have 2 degrees of play like that?). I'm still confused as this seems totally backwards to how I always understood it should work?

If anything shouldn't I be pushing the tire in from the lower outside to simulate the forces the outside tire is experiencing under cornering (assuming we're working on the outside tire, meaning the left front in a right hand turn)?

jmackani

iTrader: (14)

Ignore what it looks like with the wheels on. For one, if the car is sitting on a stand then it is misleading. Camber gain is drastic when a car is shown on a stand and leads many to think it is off. Second, drive the car and I bet it feels good. Third, there is a lot of play introduced when you add the wheels to the car and then try to use a camber gauge that is not part of the hudy system. Also you have to reset your ride height to 20mm once the wheels are on the car. Believe in the hudy system and put away the other gauges.

bleomycin

Thanks, I guess I'll just trust the setup stand then. My biggest issue is the car seems to have a very poor turning radius. At the track someone has a 2015 xb4 and the wheels on that car are able to turn a lot more than my 16 car for some reason before hitting an obstruction on the chassis.

I'm have a lot of problems making tight corners on or off the power, so much so that I end up having to slam on the brakes to get the rear of the car to rotate under hard braking (on asphalt, clay and hard pack dirt). I'm not sure if this is normal or not for the 16 car? Literally everyone at both tracks runs circles around me in the corners because my car pushes so wide both on and off throttle. I had the opportunity to drive someones 1/8th scale soar buggy and I was astonished at how tight the turning radius was on it coming from my car.

I'm running 20mm ride height, 0 toe front, 0 camber front + rear, 7k front diff, 5k rear diff, 500k center diff (per the center diff manual recommendation), 600wt front shocks, 450 rear. Everything else is set to the defaults recommended in the manual. Other than not being able to take tight corners i'm extremely pleased with how the car handles!