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Old 03-10-2014, 04:16 PM
  #45991  
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Originally Posted by 2fast916
Thanks! I thought of a reamer today but good point on material flexibility. I have plenty of chainsaw files so will give that a try first.
FYI...after arriving home, I realized I quoted the wrong drill bit size...Corrected drill size from #38 to #28 in my original post
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Old 03-10-2014, 09:16 PM
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Originally Posted by chadj1980
i'm running 5/5/3 on indoor hard clay with good luck..
Thanks,
Gonna try it
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Old 03-11-2014, 09:53 AM
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Gentleman ... Can someone confirm the axle diameter at the hex ? is it 5mm or 6mm ? I cant get my hands on my truck right now to measure , I htought they were 6mm, but now I am second guessing and need to order .... thanks
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Old 03-11-2014, 10:09 AM
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Originally Posted by wittyname
Gentleman ... Can someone confirm the axle diameter at the hex ? is it 5mm or 6mm ? I cant get my hands on my truck right now to measure , I htought they were 6mm, but now I am second guessing and need to order .... thanks
Axles at the hex is 5mm.

http://www.tlracing.com/Products/Def...rodID=LOSB3574
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Old 03-12-2014, 12:34 AM
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Hey Fellas, Old guy with a newbie question...Installed the King Headz motor mount & Center Diff Upright. Once installed, I noticed how stiff (rotation-wise) the entire drivetrain became in comparison to the single bearing stock motor mount / center diff upright. Is this natural? Once I took the white spacer from between the dual bearings within the King Headz motor mount, everything freed up back to normal rotation/spin...But, I'm assuming I need that spacer... Any advice would be appreciated.

Last edited by DJ919; 03-12-2014 at 12:45 AM.
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Old 03-12-2014, 01:33 AM
  #45996  
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Originally Posted by DJ919
Hey Fellas, Old guy with a newbie question...Installed the King Headz motor mount & Center Diff Upright. Once installed, I noticed how stiff (rotation-wise) the entire drivetrain became in comparison to the single bearing stock motor mount / center diff upright. Is this natural? Once I took the white spacer from between the dual bearings within the King Headz motor mount, everything freed up back to normal rotation/spin...But, I'm assuming I need that spacer... Any advice would be appreciated.
Stupid question but, are you sure both bearings are seated into the uprights all the way. I had a issue where one of the bearings would not seat properly and caused binding. Turned out to be a funky bearing that just would not seat all the way into the upright. Used it on the inside towards the diff and it worked fine. . hope it is as simple as something like that. Although there are some knock off products floating around out there. They look like kingheadz but are a cheap knock off using the same name. Check the kingheadz website to make sure you have actual kingheadz stuff and not the knockoff.
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Old 03-12-2014, 01:52 AM
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Thanks Rawwolf...Yeah, it's the authentic KHZ product...I'm going to uninstall and check the seating of the bearings, which makes the most sense. Thanks for the advice
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Old 03-12-2014, 04:00 AM
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Did you use the stock shim that goes between the diff and motor mount? I recently contacted KHZ to ask if I was supposed to reuse or toss. When I assembled mine, I did not use the shim as it was much more easy to rotate with no side play. Here's my question and the answer I received:

QUESTION:

"Hi!

I have a Losi Ten-SCTE 1.0 and recently purchased every King Headz upgrade for my new build.

I do have a couple of questions:

Q1: When I assembled the SCTE-036 Motor Mount w/Dual Bearings, I installed the bearing, spacer, and the second bearing. After completing this simple assembly, I noticed that the second bearing is not entirely captured by the motor mount. Said in a different way, the bearing protrudes by approximetly 1/2 it's thickness out of the bored hole in the mount. Does this seem normal? Seems that the bearing should be fully inserted in the motor mount but, the only way I could make that happen is to not install the plastic spacer. Last but not least, I will admit that I have not tried installing both this mount and the SCTE-035 front diff upright onto the chassis yet (i.e. needed to buy some supplies for my diff build).

Q2: When I removed the OEM diff (i.e. not the HD diff), there was a shim between the OEM motor mount and the diff. When I look at the Losi illustrated parts diagram, it's listed as P/N LOSB3570. If I look that p/n up on-line, it appears to be a kit that includes the shim in question plus the stock spur gear and screws. Also important to note, I am replacing this diff with the new HD diff housing. Based on the before mentioned info, I am curious if I am supposed to use the shim between the HD diff and your King Keadz SCTE-036 motor mount?

Thanks for your assistnance...I love your products!!!!!!"


ANSWER:

"The bearing will stick out about 1 mm or. 040". That is in the design. You may or may not need the shim. Reassemble the diff and reinstall it in the truck, If you have too much end play you may need to use the shim.

Jim"
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Old 03-12-2014, 04:10 AM
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Hi i am using Losi 8ight shocks on my SCTE but it seems like i trash the Shock boots waaay to easy. Is there an easy fix here? Like upgraded shock boots or boots from another model.

I know that the boots on the Vorza Flux are much better since my friend has one but i dont know if they would fit.

Thanks in advance
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Old 03-12-2014, 04:20 AM
  #46000  
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2fast916, I did leave the shim on...If the re-seating of the bearings doesn't work, I'll remove the shim, and try that route. I also noticed the bearing "slightly" sticking out. Good to see KHZ support got back to you and cleared that up...That little bit of info comes in handy...Thanks.
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Old 03-12-2014, 08:00 AM
  #46001  
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Originally Posted by DJ919
2fast916, I did leave the shim on...If the re-seating of the bearings doesn't work, I'll remove the shim, and try that route. I also noticed the bearing "slightly" sticking out. Good to see KHZ support got back to you and cleared that up...That little bit of info comes in handy...Thanks.
KHZ customer support was awesome!!! Sent an email close to 5:00 pm and received a response almost instantaneously. If you are still having issues, after trying to remove the shim, I might call or email them direct. Keep us posted...
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Old 03-12-2014, 08:03 AM
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Originally Posted by MrSvahn
Hi i am using Losi 8ight shocks on my SCTE but it seems like i trash the Shock boots waaay to easy. Is there an easy fix here? Like upgraded shock boots or boots from another model.

I know that the boots on the Vorza Flux are much better since my friend has one but i dont know if they would fit.

Thanks in advance

Try using Team Associated’s 13mm Shock Boot Set P/N ASC91070.
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Old 03-12-2014, 08:44 AM
  #46003  
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Originally Posted by 2fast916
Try using Team Associated’s 13mm Shock Boot Set P/N ASC91070.
Thanks but will they work with the Losi 8ight shocks? The shocks are 15mm according to Losi and the boots say 13mm.
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Old 03-12-2014, 09:06 AM
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Originally Posted by MrSvahn
Thanks but will they work with the Losi 8ight shocks? The shocks are 15mm according to Losi and the boots say 13mm.
Sorry...I completely mis-read your post. I thought you said you were using 8ight boots on the TLR Ten-SCTE shocks......if that was the case the Team Associated boots will work and are a great replacement. Now that I've actually fully read and my brain has interpreted that you are using the 8eight shocks themselves, you are correct that the Team Associated boots will not work for those shocks.

Sorry for the confusion!!!
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Old 03-12-2014, 09:31 AM
  #46005  
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MrSvahn: I used the boots when I first got the shocks installed 2 yrs ago. I also built them with the upgraded nitrate shafts. DONT use the boots they bind and are a waist of money IMO.... I also saved a bunch not having them because if you clean your shocks wash any thing they stick and bind... again JMO... get rid of them and put guards on the arms and go have fun.
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