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Losi 1/10 TEN-SCTE ARR 4x4 Short Course Truck Thread

Old 03-10-2014, 09:52 AM
  #45991  
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i just tossed a fresh set of hinge pins and replaced the rubber ends all at the same time... zero issues.
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Old 03-10-2014, 12:40 PM
  #45992  
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Originally Posted by JMURACN View Post
i just tossed a fresh set of hinge pins and replaced the rubber ends all at the same time... zero issues.
Interesting...since the TLR Hinge Pin kit isn't all that expensive, I ordered another yesterday. I'm hoping they included two rear sets of hinge pins vs. one set for the front (i.e. 38mm) and one set for the rear (i.e. 39mm). This still won't really answer my question as to why or when 39mm might be prefered in the rear with the adj. hinge pin brackets but, would make the front go together.

FYI...I also measured both the front and rear stock hinge pins and they all measure 38mm.

The plot thickens

Last edited by 2fast916; 03-10-2014 at 12:40 PM. Reason: spelling
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Old 03-10-2014, 01:22 PM
  #45993  
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Originally Posted by 2fast916 View Post
Last but not least, somewhat related to the questions above...

I used a #38 (if my memory is correct) drill bit to clearance the holes in the Losi arms where the inner hinge pins go thru. When I check the pins in each of the holes independently, the pins pass thru like butter....just the right amount of looseness. That being said, when I pass the pins thru both holes in the arm at the same time, the pins are almost so constrained that the arms can't rotate on the pins. My assumption is that the holes in the arms are not concentric to each other and I'm thinking of enlarging only one of the holes to a #39 drill bit size to see if I can free things up. Anyone run into this before? It is my belief that the arms should rotate on the pins and not the arms/pins rotating in the bushings of the hinge pin brackets.

Thanks all for any advice!!!!!!
I've never had a new set of SCTE (or 8ight) arms that weren't like that (pin free in each side, binding when passed through both). One would think after years of making these things (the 8ight has been out, what?, 6 or 7 years!) they could get the mold right.

I got a 1/8" diameter chain saw file and work the arm back and forth over it until the pin is free when in both sides of the pivot area. You have to get all sides of the hole in the arm for this to work. It is somewhat time consuming, but my arms are all free on my hinge pins without any slop.

The problem I have found with drills is that the material is so flexible and tough it moved out of the way of the cutting edges and the back after the edges pass, so you have to take a way much more than you want with a drill bit. A proper size machinist's chucking reamer might work but I didn't want to spend the money necessary to experiment to find the right size (It is not a simple as picking a size that matches the hinge pin because of the aforementioned flexibility of the plastic).
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Old 03-10-2014, 01:37 PM
  #45994  
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Originally Posted by ta_man View Post
I've never had a new set of SCTE (or 8ight) arms that weren't like that (pin free in each side, binding when passed through both). One would think after years of making these things (the 8ight has been out, what?, 6 or 7 years!) they could get the mold right.

I got a 1/8" diameter chain saw file and work the arm back and forth over it until the pin is free when in both sides of the pivot area. You have to get all sides of the hole in the arm for this to work. It is somewhat time consuming, but my arms are all free on my hinge pins without any slop.

The problem I have found with drills is that the material is so flexible and tough it moved out of the way of the cutting edges and the back after the edges pass, so you have to take a way much more than you want with a drill bit. A proper size machinist's chucking reamer might work but I didn't want to spend the money necessary to experiment to find the right size (It is not a simple as picking a size that matches the hinge pin because of the aforementioned flexibility of the plastic).
Thanks! I thought of a reamer today but good point on material flexibility. I have plenty of chainsaw files so will give that a try first.
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Old 03-10-2014, 04:16 PM
  #45995  
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Originally Posted by 2fast916 View Post
Thanks! I thought of a reamer today but good point on material flexibility. I have plenty of chainsaw files so will give that a try first.
FYI...after arriving home, I realized I quoted the wrong drill bit size...Corrected drill size from #38 to #28 in my original post
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Old 03-10-2014, 09:16 PM
  #45996  
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Originally Posted by chadj1980 View Post
i'm running 5/5/3 on indoor hard clay with good luck..
Thanks,
Gonna try it
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Old 03-11-2014, 09:53 AM
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Gentleman ... Can someone confirm the axle diameter at the hex ? is it 5mm or 6mm ? I cant get my hands on my truck right now to measure , I htought they were 6mm, but now I am second guessing and need to order .... thanks
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Old 03-11-2014, 10:09 AM
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Originally Posted by wittyname View Post
Gentleman ... Can someone confirm the axle diameter at the hex ? is it 5mm or 6mm ? I cant get my hands on my truck right now to measure , I htought they were 6mm, but now I am second guessing and need to order .... thanks
Axles at the hex is 5mm.

http://www.tlracing.com/Products/Def...rodID=LOSB3574
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Old 03-12-2014, 12:34 AM
  #45999  
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Hey Fellas, Old guy with a newbie question...Installed the King Headz motor mount & Center Diff Upright. Once installed, I noticed how stiff (rotation-wise) the entire drivetrain became in comparison to the single bearing stock motor mount / center diff upright. Is this natural? Once I took the white spacer from between the dual bearings within the King Headz motor mount, everything freed up back to normal rotation/spin...But, I'm assuming I need that spacer... Any advice would be appreciated.

Last edited by DJ919; 03-12-2014 at 12:45 AM.
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Old 03-12-2014, 01:33 AM
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Originally Posted by DJ919 View Post
Hey Fellas, Old guy with a newbie question...Installed the King Headz motor mount & Center Diff Upright. Once installed, I noticed how stiff (rotation-wise) the entire drivetrain became in comparison to the single bearing stock motor mount / center diff upright. Is this natural? Once I took the white spacer from between the dual bearings within the King Headz motor mount, everything freed up back to normal rotation/spin...But, I'm assuming I need that spacer... Any advice would be appreciated.
Stupid question but, are you sure both bearings are seated into the uprights all the way. I had a issue where one of the bearings would not seat properly and caused binding. Turned out to be a funky bearing that just would not seat all the way into the upright. Used it on the inside towards the diff and it worked fine. . hope it is as simple as something like that. Although there are some knock off products floating around out there. They look like kingheadz but are a cheap knock off using the same name. Check the kingheadz website to make sure you have actual kingheadz stuff and not the knockoff.
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Old 03-12-2014, 01:52 AM
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Thanks Rawwolf...Yeah, it's the authentic KHZ product...I'm going to uninstall and check the seating of the bearings, which makes the most sense. Thanks for the advice
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Old 03-12-2014, 04:00 AM
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Did you use the stock shim that goes between the diff and motor mount? I recently contacted KHZ to ask if I was supposed to reuse or toss. When I assembled mine, I did not use the shim as it was much more easy to rotate with no side play. Here's my question and the answer I received:

QUESTION:

"Hi!

I have a Losi Ten-SCTE 1.0 and recently purchased every King Headz upgrade for my new build.

I do have a couple of questions:

Q1: When I assembled the SCTE-036 Motor Mount w/Dual Bearings, I installed the bearing, spacer, and the second bearing. After completing this simple assembly, I noticed that the second bearing is not entirely captured by the motor mount. Said in a different way, the bearing protrudes by approximetly 1/2 it's thickness out of the bored hole in the mount. Does this seem normal? Seems that the bearing should be fully inserted in the motor mount but, the only way I could make that happen is to not install the plastic spacer. Last but not least, I will admit that I have not tried installing both this mount and the SCTE-035 front diff upright onto the chassis yet (i.e. needed to buy some supplies for my diff build).

Q2: When I removed the OEM diff (i.e. not the HD diff), there was a shim between the OEM motor mount and the diff. When I look at the Losi illustrated parts diagram, it's listed as P/N LOSB3570. If I look that p/n up on-line, it appears to be a kit that includes the shim in question plus the stock spur gear and screws. Also important to note, I am replacing this diff with the new HD diff housing. Based on the before mentioned info, I am curious if I am supposed to use the shim between the HD diff and your King Keadz SCTE-036 motor mount?

Thanks for your assistnance...I love your products!!!!!!"


ANSWER:

"The bearing will stick out about 1 mm or. 040". That is in the design. You may or may not need the shim. Reassemble the diff and reinstall it in the truck, If you have too much end play you may need to use the shim.

Jim"
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Old 03-12-2014, 04:10 AM
  #46003  
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Hi i am using Losi 8ight shocks on my SCTE but it seems like i trash the Shock boots waaay to easy. Is there an easy fix here? Like upgraded shock boots or boots from another model.

I know that the boots on the Vorza Flux are much better since my friend has one but i dont know if they would fit.

Thanks in advance
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Old 03-12-2014, 04:20 AM
  #46004  
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2fast916, I did leave the shim on...If the re-seating of the bearings doesn't work, I'll remove the shim, and try that route. I also noticed the bearing "slightly" sticking out. Good to see KHZ support got back to you and cleared that up...That little bit of info comes in handy...Thanks.
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Old 03-12-2014, 08:00 AM
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Originally Posted by DJ919 View Post
2fast916, I did leave the shim on...If the re-seating of the bearings doesn't work, I'll remove the shim, and try that route. I also noticed the bearing "slightly" sticking out. Good to see KHZ support got back to you and cleared that up...That little bit of info comes in handy...Thanks.
KHZ customer support was awesome!!! Sent an email close to 5:00 pm and received a response almost instantaneously. If you are still having issues, after trying to remove the shim, I might call or email them direct. Keep us posted...
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