ChrisAttebery

iTrader: (121)

I had one o-ring and one 1mm(.040) spacer in the shock. I could not get them tight enough and was constantly finding oil on the shocks.

To run 2 o-rings I would put in an o-ring, a .5mm spacer, another oring. That's about .140" vs the stock x-ring that is .090 or so. In order to keep the pre-load on the o-rings consistent I would put add .045" x .390" shim under the threaded portion of the shock cap, not inside the cap with the o-rings.

ChrisAttebery

iTrader: (121)

That's why I was thinking something along the lines of the Fioroni brace would be a good idea. I'd make it so that it telescopes enough that the chassis can flex upward all it wants, but limit downward flex with a stop.

skrichter

iTrader: (13)

Looking for a heat sink/fan combo that stays firmly secured to the motor. I have an integy, that doesn't want to hold tight, without some extra help from tie straps.

Suggestions welcomed. Thx!

D-A-N-4-4

iTrader: (25)

have you seen the castle motor fan? it looks to be pretty good...


http://www.amainhobbies.com/advanced...le+fan&x=0&y=0

ChrisAttebery

iTrader: (121)

It just dawned on me that I could make a limiter strap out of 1/16th cable. I'm going to stop by the HW store tonight and pick some up.

hacker07

iTrader: (13)

There are two bodies, and even sort of 3. There is the TLR8060, which has come in two different versions now. The first version was not trimmed at all. The updated part will have the normal trimming and all the venting will not be cut out. The new part number TLR8061, has all the vent holes also cut out.

.AJ.

Liquid RC are happy they sent me the right shell, mine is a TLR8061, but has no vents pre-cut, so ive paid extra for a pre-cut which aint precut, i would send it back but that's a no go as im in uk, not happy

Edit - just found the label and it is TLR8061

Adonis_mp

iTrader: (9)

I'm having trouble figuring out how to put my shock with the Bleeder Shock Caps back together. My issue is do I use the rubber gasket and not the bladder, if so, how much rebound should I use? Or do I use both, the gasket on the shock body and the bladder in the cap? I have not been able to find anything on teh web/tube and we are on over 38,800 post and I have not been able to find anything here. Thanks for the help.

rcus3r

Pretty crappy design, in my opinion. The plastic does not dissipate heat like aluminum would. The other problem is that the air has nowhere to go. The air gets pushed onto the motor but it can’t go anywhere. It actually puts stress on the fan. I guess you could reverse the fan so it sucks air from the can, but I don’t think that’s how it should work.

I ended up drilling bunch of vent holes into the fan assembly to allow for the air to flow, but it still does not work as well as my old dual fan Integy setup.

XXXDad

iTrader: (198)

Use the O- Ring only...... fill the shock with the oil and cycle the piston up and down 5-6 times let it sit upright for 10 min to let all or most bubbles out ( Micro fine bubbles are moving to the top) now fill the shock all the way, i even put some in the cap.with bleeder screw out... put cap on tight... slowly push piston to top... it should push out all air left in. now put that lil screw with washer back in ( carefull dont strip it) and then move the piston in and out should have zero rebound. if has rebound just open screw and then close again mto bleed a lil more oil out. . Hope this helps, Glenn

DanielHolloway

Thanks blade, and the other few, it's just driving a couple of us here crazy. Thought that it should have increased runtime, but it's not. Guess it's time for a teardown a little earlier than normal.

Thanks again guys.

ta_man

iTrader: (168)

I also think the castle blower shroud is a poor design but apparently it works better than either of us would believe. My buddy has one on one of his motors and said it dropped the temperature by 10-15 degrees.

kris88

iTrader: (1)

Hey guys

Just wanted to share an experience I've had with my scte

Im running a rx8 and 4600 pro 4 combo, I have the tlr tuning kit. Tlr chassis, ti turnbuckles and am running a 14 pinion with the stock spur. I'm running 7-5-2 in the duffs and emulsion shocks with 32.5 front and 27.5 rear with associated oil.

My problem is with killing batteries, I've puffed up a Orion carbon pro 6500 may 90c and then a reedy 5500 60c the following club race, my temps are not terrible (175) but it seems the pro4 is pulling too many amps for the batteries??

The esc is set up with no drag brake, 80 current limit, tp3 (linear) with timing profile 1, the lowest

What are you guys experiencing with this tekin setup, should I drop pinion size, i see some pros running 12-13, and then others running 14-15 with similar setups

BDRMBULLY

iTrader: (40)

Maybe the bearings in the mount are not seated properly?

BDRMBULLY

iTrader: (40)

Bad/ cold solder joints on your connections, i sold a gd buddy a 6600 nano, his first run he melted the pos connection on the pack due to birdcage style bullet connectors, so i bought him another one and doesnt the dumbass do the same thing cause he wanted to use it for a main.also i turned my current limiter down to 65 but i run on a very loose , dusty viney track