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Losi 1/10 TEN-SCTE ARR 4x4 Short Course Truck Thread

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Losi 1/10 TEN-SCTE ARR 4x4 Short Course Truck Thread

Old 08-27-2012, 12:22 PM
  #38761  
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I just run one oring and the spacer. When the orings are new you can screw the cap all the way down without binding. After a while the oring swells a little and then back off the cap 1/2-3/4 turn and it's good. No leaks and super smooth shocks.
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Old 08-27-2012, 01:01 PM
  #38762  
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Originally Posted by lewis4x4
Looking for a little help here... I built a "King Headz" edition SCTE with every King Headz part available (Chassis, outdrives, dog bones, braces and such). This is my thrid SCTE with all the others using the Losi aftermarket chassis. For some reason, I can not get the truck to stop nose diving on EVERY jump and EVERY track I atttend. I have tried everyting I know. I have used different springs, oil weight, ride height and such. Has anyone else had this problem? I have ZERO drag brake and even if I accelorate through the jump, it will still nose dive.
Make sure your nuts arent too tight on the standoffs and make sure all you front and rear hinge pins arent bent.Both of these problems will cause binding issues which will often lead to nose diving.
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Old 08-27-2012, 01:19 PM
  #38763  
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Originally Posted by gernaat
i'd also be interested if anybody has tried both and has an opinion. i'd like to pair one up with a hwing 120 pro.
For us it seems the hobby wing has little more punch and runs cooler...
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Old 08-27-2012, 01:27 PM
  #38764  
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Originally Posted by chucko
That sucks. looks like its time for some new lock tite, maybe a new end bell and can. that happened to me with a truggy motor from tekin. I have replaced screws with longer on motor mount, end bells and top of motor mount. seams they like to save money on using the correct longer screws,,.. I FEEL YOUR PAIN
thanx man

Originally Posted by HighLife420
You can spin the end bell part around to use new holes...also make sure you let the lock tite set before you use it, like 10-15mins should be ok.

This has happened to me before. Just make sure before a big race you check the screws, reapply lock tite if needed.
thanx for the tips

Originally Posted by Randy_Pike
Not good. Looks like someone had it apart before and didn't snug up the screws.
I think it will still work have not looked at it since fri nite tho.The guy I got it from only ran it about five times and found it to be too much motor for him.He does not know how to tear one apart and I have not yet done any service to it!The few screws that were left showed no signs of loktite from the factory,So I will clean it up, oil or replace the bearings and hope She rides again!!!!
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Old 08-27-2012, 02:43 PM
  #38765  
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thinking about getting this but seems fairly new. anybody have this or have anything bad or good things about it. is mip a good brand in general? i have never gotten any mip stuff in the past so im a little unsure about it. on ebay its only 200.

http://miponline.com/store/mip12200.html
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Old 08-27-2012, 02:45 PM
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doesnt look like you can have nerf bars with it and in short course i think thats probably a must.
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Old 08-27-2012, 02:49 PM
  #38767  
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Originally Posted by benicetofatkids
thinking about getting this but seems fairly new. anybody have this or have anything bad or good things about it. is mip a good brand in general? i have never gotten any mip stuff in the past so im a little unsure about it. on ebay its only 200.

http://miponline.com/store/mip12200.html
So far the reviews have been very positive. I plan to put that setup on mine before our next big outdoor race. You can get it on a-main for $165.
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Old 08-27-2012, 03:33 PM
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Originally Posted by MX304
So far the reviews have been very positive. I plan to put that setup on mine before our next big outdoor race. You can get it on a-main for $165.
is it bad that you cant have nerf bars on it though? or does that not really matter in your guys opinion?
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Old 08-27-2012, 03:38 PM
  #38769  
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My truck has never had nerf bars on it. I've never had a problem with it because I didn't have them.

Originally Posted by benicetofatkids
is it bad that you cant have nerf bars on it though? or does that not really matter in your guys opinion?
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Old 08-27-2012, 04:08 PM
  #38770  
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Originally Posted by ChrisAttebery
My truck has never had nerf bars on it. I've never had a problem with it because I didn't have them.
i know the losi stock chassis has a tendency to bend if wrecked alot, do you think this one will have that as well or be just as sturdy as the bce chassis?
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Old 08-27-2012, 04:20 PM
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Originally Posted by benicetofatkids
is it bad that you cant have nerf bars on it though? or does that not really matter in your guys opinion?
unlike chris LOL I am upside down a few times during practice and racing. when the turn marshal goes to pick it up and grabs it from the side they grab the body and flip it over. depending on how fast he or she yanks on the side my body takes a strain to the mounting posts. other then that .. just hope if you spin out on the straight some kid doesn't t bone ya in to tomorrow and rip the motor out. YES... that did happen to me. its only $$$$
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Old 08-27-2012, 04:39 PM
  #38772  
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Has anyone that is running the Bump chassis and using the KH diff standoff noticed more milliamp usage during your runs? Since putting this dual bearing diff mount on, I am noticing that I am using almost 1000 more milliamps during my runs.

Anyone have this happen, or could explain the reasoning? Maybe the dual bearing is putting just a little more drag on the driveline?

Any help would be appreciated.
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Old 08-27-2012, 05:17 PM
  #38773  
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Originally Posted by BmainStar
I think I had my first DNF ever with this truck Friday night,Running 2nd in our local club race great outdoors series and threw her down for the mains and some horrendous noise started to come out of My Baby!Thought oh well she will make it thru the Main noise or not ,always has.Truck was sick dialed all night took off from the grid number two position and got 3 turns in and Bam complete lock upHere is what I found when back in the pits.The small screws that hold the front end bell came loose and spun My motor
Bought this motor used with very little run time on her!
Well bro, that sucks. No other way to put it. Hope you can get it fixed with all the comments on here. But there's always a bright side. If it isn't able to be fixed, you could always turn the can into the coolest Tekin shot glass. No one else would have one!
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Old 08-27-2012, 05:21 PM
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Losi has good customer service guys FYI. I got my SCTE a few days ago and the rear driveshaft was a little warped so I called them and as soon as I told them what was up the guy was like "ok ill send you one Tomarrow" so yeah just thought I'd share my experience!

Thanks,
Dan
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Old 08-27-2012, 07:35 PM
  #38775  
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Originally Posted by rcgod
I just run one oring and the spacer. When the orings are new you can screw the cap all the way down without binding. After a while the oring swells a little and then back off the cap 1/2-3/4 turn and it's good. No leaks and super smooth shocks.
For your spacer u just use the 1mm?
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