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Losi 1/10 TEN-SCTE ARR 4x4 Short Course Truck Thread

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Losi 1/10 TEN-SCTE ARR 4x4 Short Course Truck Thread

Old 08-28-2012, 09:26 AM
  #38791  
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Originally Posted by ChrisAttebery View Post
I tried using a 1mm spacer(turned on my lathe) and it wasn't quite enough to keep the shocks from leaking. That's why i want to try using 2 o-rings. I measured the shocks last night and a .040" spacer under the cap should put the o-rings at the right pre-load.
Do you mean it needed a .040 spacer in addition to the one already there? The low friction orings swell really quickly so you might have a little seeping the first day but they seal up after that.
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Old 08-28-2012, 09:27 AM
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I dug into my SCTE over the weekend trying to find out why the rear end is getting so loose. The suspension seems free enough. The chassis actually has more flex with the plastic braces than I remembered. Then I got to the shocks. The shock shafts are really dull. I chucked one up in my drill and buffed it up with metal polish. It was shiny and smooth and felt much freer in the shock afterward. I've ordered the TiN shafts, so this was just to prove my theory. Next up I noticed that the oil was pretty black, I had changed the oil recently but I thought that the seals were just bad and letting dirt by. I cleaned the body with mineral spirits and looked at the bore. There is a large spot on one side where the piston has worn the anodizing away. I'm sure that between the rough shafts and worn bodies I'm getting a lot of friction. So now I've got the HA bodies, bleeder caps and TiN shafts on order. I'm sure that will help quite a bit.

I also tried taking the rear brace off the truck to see how much more it would flex. I might try running without it. I think I'd also like to try making a rear brace similar to the Fioroni 8B brace that will allow the chassis to flex a little more but keep it from bending in a crash.
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Old 08-28-2012, 09:30 AM
  #38793  
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i would imagine you'd have issues with the center rear driveshaft popping out of the center diff without a rear chassis brace.
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Old 08-28-2012, 09:36 AM
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Originally Posted by DanielHolloway View Post
Has anyone that is running the Bump chassis and using the KH diff standoff noticed more milliamp usage during your runs? Since putting this dual bearing diff mount on, I am noticing that I am using almost 1000 more milliamps during my runs.

Anyone have this happen, or could explain the reasoning? Maybe the dual bearing is putting just a little more drag on the driveline?

Any help would be appreciated.
That hasn't been my experience at all. I run the same setup. My temps are lower and have slightly longer run time.
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Old 08-28-2012, 09:36 AM
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I had one o-ring and one 1mm(.040) spacer in the shock. I could not get them tight enough and was constantly finding oil on the shocks.

To run 2 o-rings I would put in an o-ring, a .5mm spacer, another oring. That's about .140" vs the stock x-ring that is .090 or so. In order to keep the pre-load on the o-rings consistent I would put add .045" x .390" shim under the threaded portion of the shock cap, not inside the cap with the o-rings.

Originally Posted by rcgod View Post
Do you mean it needed a .040 spacer in addition to the one already there? The low friction orings swell really quickly so you might have a little seeping the first day but they seal up after that.
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Old 08-28-2012, 09:38 AM
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That's why I was thinking something along the lines of the Fioroni brace would be a good idea. I'd make it so that it telescopes enough that the chassis can flex upward all it wants, but limit downward flex with a stop.

Originally Posted by rcgod View Post
Do you mean it needed a .040 spacer in addition to the one already there? The low friction orings swell really quickly so you might have a little seeping the first day but they seal up after that.
Originally Posted by RC*PHREAK View Post
i would imagine you'd have issues with the center rear driveshaft popping out of the center diff without a rear chassis brace.
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Old 08-28-2012, 10:09 AM
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Looking for a heat sink/fan combo that stays firmly secured to the motor. I have an integy, that doesn't want to hold tight, without some extra help from tie straps.

Suggestions welcomed. Thx!
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Old 08-28-2012, 11:07 AM
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Originally Posted by skrichter View Post
Looking for a heat sink/fan combo that stays firmly secured to the motor. I have an integy, that doesn't want to hold tight, without some extra help from tie straps.

Suggestions welcomed. Thx!
have you seen the castle motor fan? it looks to be pretty good...


http://www.amainhobbies.com/advanced...le+fan&x=0&y=0
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Old 08-28-2012, 11:41 AM
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It just dawned on me that I could make a limiter strap out of 1/16th cable. I'm going to stop by the HW store tonight and pick some up.

Originally Posted by RC*PHREAK View Post
i would imagine you'd have issues with the center rear driveshaft popping out of the center diff without a rear chassis brace.
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Old 08-28-2012, 12:46 PM
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Originally Posted by .AJ. View Post
Thats understandable, but the listing said all the vents are pre-cut?

Probaly best to wait and see what Ryan says
There are two bodies, and even sort of 3. There is the TLR8060, which has come in two different versions now. The first version was not trimmed at all. The updated part will have the normal trimming and all the venting will not be cut out. The new part number TLR8061, has all the vent holes also cut out.
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Old 08-28-2012, 12:59 PM
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Originally Posted by hacker07 View Post
There are two bodies, and even sort of 3. There is the TLR8060, which has come in two different versions now. The first version was not trimmed at all. The updated part will have the normal trimming and all the venting will not be cut out. The new part number TLR8061, has all the vent holes also cut out.
Liquid RC are happy they sent me the right shell, mine is a TLR8061, but has no vents pre-cut, so ive paid extra for a pre-cut which aint precut, i would send it back but that's a no go as im in uk, not happy

Edit - just found the label and it is TLR8061

Last edited by .AJ.; 08-28-2012 at 01:09 PM.
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Old 08-28-2012, 01:11 PM
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I'm having trouble figuring out how to put my shock with the Bleeder Shock Caps back together. My issue is do I use the rubber gasket and not the bladder, if so, how much rebound should I use? Or do I use both, the gasket on the shock body and the bladder in the cap? I have not been able to find anything on teh web/tube and we are on over 38,800 post and I have not been able to find anything here. Thanks for the help.
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Old 08-28-2012, 01:24 PM
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Originally Posted by D-A-N-4-4 View Post
have you seen the castle motor fan? it looks to be pretty good...


http://www.amainhobbies.com/advanced...le+fan&x=0&y=0
Pretty crappy design, in my opinion. The plastic does not dissipate heat like aluminum would. The other problem is that the air has nowhere to go. The air gets pushed onto the motor but it can’t go anywhere. It actually puts stress on the fan. I guess you could reverse the fan so it sucks air from the can, but I don’t think that’s how it should work.

I ended up drilling bunch of vent holes into the fan assembly to allow for the air to flow, but it still does not work as well as my old dual fan Integy setup.

Last edited by rcus3r; 08-28-2012 at 01:44 PM.
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Old 08-28-2012, 01:26 PM
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Originally Posted by Adonis_mp View Post
I'm having trouble figuring out how to put my shock with the Bleeder Shock Caps back together. My issue is do I use the rubber gasket and not the bladder, if so, how much rebound should I use? Or do I use both, the gasket on the shock body and the bladder in the cap? I have not been able to find anything on teh web/tube and we are on over 38,800 post and I have not been able to find anything here. Thanks for the help.
Use the O- Ring only...... fill the shock with the oil and cycle the piston up and down 5-6 times let it sit upright for 10 min to let all or most bubbles out ( Micro fine bubbles are moving to the top) now fill the shock all the way, i even put some in the cap.with bleeder screw out... put cap on tight... slowly push piston to top... it should push out all air left in. now put that lil screw with washer back in ( carefull dont strip it) and then move the piston in and out should have zero rebound. if has rebound just open screw and then close again mto bleed a lil more oil out. . Hope this helps, Glenn
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Old 08-28-2012, 01:28 PM
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Originally Posted by blade329 View Post
That hasn't been my experience at all. I run the same setup. My temps are lower and have slightly longer run time.
Thanks blade, and the other few, it's just driving a couple of us here crazy. Thought that it should have increased runtime, but it's not. Guess it's time for a teardown a little earlier than normal.

Thanks again guys.
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