Yokomo_Ant3

iTrader: (29)

Anyone know if the L1/L2 camber link position will make the car rotate better through a corner than the Standard ones from the 009? I curently have the 009 ones instanled and the car is pretty good, just needs that bit quicker rotation into and through the corner. I changed to the 009 one's with a lot of other setup changes and the car went good, now i just need to slightly improve the car.

Thanks in advance,

Antoni

or8ital

iTrader: (38)

I will let you know. Our track is a 90X45 CRC-HD Ozite carpet track. The carpet it on bare concrete so the traction depends on the temp outside. Lately it has been medium traction since its been so cold. It's really only tail happy on the technical parts of the track (like the back to back 180 degree turns). When the traction is like it is now the Mazda 6 is just a tad pushy for me and the LTC-R is a tad loose. I'm hoping the Speed6 frees the car up a bit and splits the middle. We will see tonight.

I really liked the LTC-R on my TC5 but it just seems too aggressive for me on the Xray. I could turn slightly faster lap times with it vs the Mazda6 but more often then not they were slower b/c it was harder to drive so my overall times we worse.

lowcel

iTrader: (80)

I can't wait until I get enough experience that I can tell a difference in the way by car handles with different bodies. I've obviously got a long way to go.

or8ital

iTrader: (38)

It took me several years to get to this point. Also your car has to be pretty close in setup for you to notice a difference. If you car is setup to push it will likely push no matter what body you have on there. Once you are driving mostly consistently it becomes obvious when something changes on your car.

You heading to Cincinnati this weekend with the OVRCCC crew?

bigdog xxx-s

iTrader: (4)

Hey Tim,

We had the same issue. We did 3 things to fix it you can try them in any order to see what works for you.. More rear camber. A little more droop, and if that doesn't work lengthen the chassis. So if you have your rear arms in the middle move the shims forward. Not sure how many holes open you are running for pistons. We have three, don't use the clickers either, run pistons clickers are too unreliable for maintaining the number of holes you want open.

See ya this weekend.

or8ital

iTrader: (38)

Yeah I got rid of the clickers after my first shock rebuild when 3 of them had shifted to the wrong setting and one of those 3 lost one of it's clicks. Went to the static 3 hole. My car is actually handling pretty well. I could have setup around the LTC-R handling but I wanted to run the same body as Jim. We are trying to keep as much stuff as possible the same so we can share setup info better. See you Friday (Jim and I won't be there until the evening session).

lowcel

iTrader: (80)

Nope, I'm skipping it. I'm still in recovery mode from Christmas.

or8ital

iTrader: (38)

There is still time to change your mind

Rojna

What starting setup would you recomend for the birds ?


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BigDogRacing

iTrader: (12)

Looks to me like your biggest problem with the rear being a little loose is the 2 degrees of rear toe. Like he said above, go to the longest wheelbase in the rear and put the 1.5 shim back in with 0 deg blocks or at least put the .75 black shim on the back with your current 1deg blocks and see if that helps. You will probably be able to go back to the 2.6 rear spring with the added toe. And softer shock oil in the rear will allow the weight to transfer to the rear faster- which from what you described is your problem- weight transfer to the rear in quick transitions.

Skiddins

Have you tried the kit setup?

Looking at the shims (or lack of) under the rear camber link, you will have alot of possitive camber as the car rolls, as you apply the power the weight will move to the back and load up the tyre which is running on the tyre shoulder.
Try 3.5 or 4mm under the link instead.

Don't try and copy a 009 setup, the rear links are now higher than the 009 by 2 or 3mm (in fact they are now the same as the front, on the 009 the rears were lower).

Skiddins

Phoenix82

iTrader: (5)

Hey Jim. I agree. I ran my T3 for the first time this week and all i can say is WOW. It was very good out of the box for set up. It has better corner speed and better weight transfer. I cant wait to see it in action this weekend vs the big dogs.

Nick

nitrobeast

iTrader: (46)

In no order
Add shims under the rear link
Add camber
Add toe
Lower the shock. You might be able to go back to the stock spring.
On asphalt i would try L1/L2
Can you run a softer tire? 36 are really hard

nitrobeast

iTrader: (46)

No, the L1/L2 make the link a little longer.

RLMW VQ

iTrader: (11)

l1 l2 will give you more conner speed as you will be able to get back on the gas sooner. also will be easyer to drive. use the l1 l2 up front and the 009 on the back.