Bikerbob

iTrader: (11)

looking at buying one used.

is the std MI4 an easy car to drive? or very twitchy.. and sensitive.

Where I run is a Schumacher dealer, so that part is good.

looking for something budget that can run TC. I love purple aluminum to boot!

James

StefanW

Got the Info after Toy Fair that Schumacher MI5 is on the way...

- rotated Topdeck (90° - like WRC STX TC)
- Carbon arms
- new Motormount (no more Clamp)

roger999

iTrader: (13)

All electric cars are sensitive and not easy to drive compare to nitro cars, but Schumacher Mi4CXL is much easier to drive than tc6 or t3 (for me anyway). The quality is also great, i would say is very similar to Xray.

muttb0ne

Curious as to why Shumie would get rid of the clamp-style motormount. Was it deemed gimmicky or problematic? Would the mount on the yet-to-be-released kit be vastly superior? Or was it that ppl just simply didn't like it? Seems to me that this was a great idea, allowing you to move in your motor, an the best part: No more having to mesh your spur/pinion!

Admittedly, I have yet to purchase my first Schumacher, so I'm prolly missing something here.

Speaking of, along with my current order for the CRC GenX 10LE, I am also deciding to add another kit to the collection, which is why I mention all this. I DO have a question, however. The Mi4cxl. Where does the Mi4 LP fit into the series? Is it after the CX, BEFORE the CXL, or is it the current new car from Schumacher? Not that it matters, as I would still get the CXL, as I cannot afford the latest/greatest. I tend to buy a version or two older of a particular kit when the prices come down to a more "I'm-not-sleeping-on-the-couch" level. Simple curiosity.

YZFAndy

Its goes Mi4 / Mi4lp (lp meaning lipo) / Mi4CX / Mi4CXL ( L meaning long top deck).

If they have got rid of the motor mount we are used to its probably because the new top brace system that was mentioned. The motor mount at the moment is bolted to a topdeck support that also supports the spur gear that isn't needed and wouldn't be braced if the new topdeck is an inverted design. Other thing with the clap is it needs a slot cut in the chassis, its not the lowest centre of gravity design I've seen, it involves extra parts that aren't needed and its a bugger if you want to use a motor heatsink. Despite all that is was very useful way to balance the car.

YZFAndy

Thing i've found about the mi4 series of cars are they are very sensitive to setup changes. Little changes make a big difference to the car so setting it up how you want can be done if you have the setup knowledge. Xrays always seem to have very safe easy to drive handling but take some major adjustments to get them to react sometimes. Only other TC car i've had long term was a serpent and that was always very aggressive on the front end which tends to be the quickest way of driving but not if the car is pointing the wrong way every other corner.

wiscR56

iTrader: (5)

thinking about getting a mi4cxl. should I pick up the gear diffs right away. I will be running on medium bite carpet.

bdortch

iTrader: (3)

For those interested I have a Mi4CXL with spares I am selling. I used it one season. I can email pics until I get them into the"for sale" forum.

roger999

iTrader: (13)

Yes get it together with roller.

TheHoofmeister

Noticed the prices of the Mi4cxl have come down a fair bit and always wanted to get a TC so have taken the plunge and ordered one a few days ago. Cant wait to get it and start building it, and I also found out I have a track in Ware close to me too.

Few questions I hope people can answer.

1)Does anyone here use the Ware TC venue (think it's Friday nights) and if so, can they recommend a good starting setup and/or upgrades/mods? Particular things worth changing whilst building? Looking at hop ups for this kit, it appears it's fairly well spec'ed anyway.

2)Random Q 1: Does anyone know if Screws are still required if the Ti hingepins are used as the manual looks like the steel pins have a screw in the end but the Ti pins have no screw holes?

3)Random Q 2: Does the Worlds Suspension mounts kit require cutting the front and rear bulkheads?

Any help appreciated, I'm fairly techie but new to TC.

Cheers

YZFAndy

The ti pins don't have screw holes in so you wont be using the screws but i would recommend just sticking to the steel pins with the screws. They are harder than the ti pins and you can nip the screws up to take out front to back slack on the wishbones. Outer ti pins are good.
Yes they do require cutting and getting them is a must. I have noticed a big improvement when grip comes up with this mod. It just seems to handle high grip better.

As for other mods; gear diff is pretty much a must now, other favourite cheap and worth while mods are tamiya trf three hole pistons, tamiya trf black diaphragm and much more 40 degree green o-rings.

As for setups, we had a bad turnout at my local a couple of weeks back so just had a play about and put it back to kit. Ditched all the common stuff like slim hex's up front, front width shimming, medium flex hubs and so on which seems to the the trend with most setups for this car and was really surprised how quick it was with the stock setup but with the worlds mod. The only things I,ve changed from kit setup is carpet topdeck, hard front hubs, dropped the rear toe to 2.5 degree from 3, front ackerman spacers to 4mm and the car is doing an extra lap. Kit setup is a good place to start from.

TheHoofmeister

Thanks for your reply on this YZFAndy.

How easy are we talking for cutting the bulkheads? I'm surprised no one has posted a YouTube video or similar (I did search but found nothing). Is it something a 'novice' could do and without specialist tools? Do you have any pics?

With the mods you mentioned, are these because the standard parts are no good, or are these just up a a notch from the standard schuie parts?

YZFAndy

If you have a drimel very easy, or you can just go out and buy a cheap £2 hacksaw and take your time and make a nice job of it. They do come with very clear instructions too.
Notice the upside down steering mod too. Thats worth while doing and doesn't cost anything if you buy the mod kit.




Other mods are because;
Gear diff. Just so much easier to tune setup with, much more consistent and if you are running at a local week in week out it maintenance free. Ball diff needs rebuilding every meeting to stay at its best.

Tamiya Diagrams were just used to replace torn standard ones and just found them better. They are a little firmer rubber and don't hold as bigger bubble of air so are easier to get zero rebound and have a more positive feel. Very small change i'm talking about here and probably more in the mind than anything.

Tamiya pistons seem to have a slightly more rounded edge to them over the standard kit ones and just seem to let the car change direction quicker rather than using thinner oil and losing a bit of stability.

Mouch more o-rings because the standard clear ones are nice and smooth but let some oil past. the 40 green much more type are really smooth and make a good seal. Heard someone say there are better blue ones now from schie as a rebuild pack but not sure if they have made it to kits!

TheHoofmeister

Anyone installed the twin post steering set - u3774?

Does it improve the steering response and feel? Can this be installed with the worlds suspensions mount and without?

Also, just wondered, do TC drivers generally use something to drop from 7.4v to 6v on their servo etc or with the latest stuff, can you just go straight through with 7.4v?

bdortch

iTrader: (3)