Xtant3150c

iTrader: (10)

Thanks for the info NVisible! I will try this on my car. And also thanks for the tip on the bearings! I know that I need to clean them out anyways so I will try the lighter fluid trick j/k!

Thanks for jkerr0043!
I pulled the motor out and it did'nt feel like their was a bind, but I will probably end up tearing it down and rebuilding it if I need to.

One more thing I have read about cutting every other tooth on the belt? Is this a must do mod to have a smoother running xxx-s?

Mahalo guys for your HELP!

Randy Caster

iTrader: (47)

For the bearings, I remove both shields and just spray them out with motor spray, that should remove any grittiness you have. Then just use 2 drops of royal oil per bearing, it'll be enough.

I think the every other tooth is a must do mod, it's free and it'll get you a quicker accelerating car, and your batteries will last longer as well...

ZER01

Batteries only last longer if you stay on-power, once you lift you are taking life from them...

ZER01

That depends on how much you shim the inner block and what postion you mount the outer moute in the bulkhead w/via shims.......

Oasis

iTrader: (38)

On removing every other tooth on the belt are you doing this on the black belt also ? And how is this belt "trick" holding up in mod,I run a 10x2 most of the time and dont really like changing belts..

RKeasler

iTrader: (5)

Batteries WILL last longer if they don't have to work as hard ie: the drivetrain is more efficient, the motor is more effficient, the driver (throttle) is more efficient...

NVisible

iTrader: (1)

I really dislike adjusting my turnbuckles on my xxx-s. Seems when i try to adjust they always pop out, or i have to use needle nose pliers on one end as i try to adjust them, just a pain in the arse. Im using the ones that came with the RTR kit, would a lunsford set with the rpm ends help this at all? maybe im doing something wrong. I even put lube on them like it said in Drakes article in RC Nitro, but same thing

SPC Racing

how tight should the diffs be after rebuilding them?

mike_Webb

The Problem is that 1..you did not lube the end of the turnbuckle and 2. make sure the turnbuckle ends are not at the end of the ballcup. I went to the offroad ball cups on my XXXS and I also dremeled off a little bit off the end of all the turnbuckles. I have never had a problem with the buckle coming out of the ballcup and poping off when I adjust it.

NVisible

iTrader: (1)

well, i did lube the ends of the turnbuckle, but maybe i used the wrong stuff? what did you use?

Noticed that the turnbuckles on my MFE are very easy to adjust, so maybe ill go the same route

mike_Webb

I used Assocaited Black Grease.... I think the big change to make is going to the longer Ballcups.

In the front and the rear of my car the Ballcups go all the way to the turnbuckle adjuster on the shaft. in the rear that gives me 2 degrees of neg. camber (I never run that much) and in the Front on the steering when the ball cups are against the adjuster that gives me 2 degrees of Toe-Out (I never run that much) so it is good. For Camber in the front if they go all the way to the adjuster it gave me 4 degrees of neg camber.. so that is the only spot where the ballcup is further away from the adjuster nut.

NVisible

iTrader: (1)

great, thanks alot!

Still Bill

iTrader: (16)

I rub the turnbuckle against wax before installing. The wax can be an old candle or the bar of wax used on my skis.

racer-oZ

iTrader: (2)

XXX-S Bill, how long have you been waxing your turbuckle? couldn't resist that one!

racer-oZ

pro3racer

nice one