rayhuang

iTrader: (5)

I am 99% sure you really only need killer $7 to $14 bearings on the outdrives. The rest of the bearings you just need to clean and oil. The quality of which seems to play less of a roll as the outdrive bearings- IMHO!!!

Just get good enough quality wheel bearings that they dont fail on you all the time or lock-up. ACtually-some times the cheapest bearings spin the freeest-just not for very long. The cages break or get squished from sideloading and they fail. But-boy will they spin like crazy with a light oil llike Zubaks speed lube and a few runs in them.

John Fontaine

iTrader: (2)

I ended up ordering the Super Polyamide Sealed Bearings for 59.95 for the 16 xray bearing sizes. I couldn't see getting the carbide yet, i'll see how these go. I bought the rpm blaster cause I hate cleaning bearings and good oil.

pucho

rayhuang:

Oh! OK! I have been running it on my T1R in exacly the same position you are. I tryed going back to stock and It didn't feel right.

Devin:

I think you mean Ceramic not carbide berrings. Ceramics are the really expensive ones.

redsand

dudes, how are the balls in your diff doing ? are you still using the stock steel ones or have you replaced 'em with carbides ?
i've been running my xray for about 3 months with constant cleaning and maintenance, last nite i opened up the rear diff, i felt some notches. must have been the deformed steel balls causing that sort of thing i guess.

btw, i still can't figure out how to prevent the shocks from leaking at the caps. any ideas ?

pucho

redsand:

as far as my diff goes I only have agout 30 packs trhough the car and their holding up well with the steel balls, but if I had to rebuild it I would defenatley get the carbides or at least the accer HCCA balls they are better than steel yet not as expensive as carbide with similar hardnes. On the shocks, this is my first Xray but I have built and maintenance a ton of these shocks the mayor thing I found is that most people dont trim the flashing around the blader and that causes the cap to not sit well on the shock causing it to leak. I also use Associated green slime on the bottom O-ring, My shock are leak free and with out a problem at all.


Last night took the T1R out again and didn't make the A but was fist on the B it sucks but looking back at it all 16 guys that ran where with in a lap And I mised the A by a few seconds. I did win the B thought so that's good.

milf

Hey guys! I TQ'ed my race last night on stock, no one was able to catch me, my car was screaming down the track. My Evo 2 was great . In the main I was in first, but then got hit in the back and lost 4 pos., but I was able to climb back up, but time ran out and I finished 2nd.

diesel

Hey guys, what are the main differences between an Xray T1 and the Evo2? How is the Xray T1 compared to the Evo2...in terms of adjustability, durability and performance? Are the differences great? Please enlighten me!! Thanks in advance.

Diesel.

calvin

Check out the X-Ray site as they fairly well outline the changes in the newer models with respect to the previous ones. We have raced a T1 for a year and a half in mod and to date have never broken anything (knock on wood). The primary differences between the T1 and EVO2 is the 6 cell side-by-side chassis battery layout provision and the new shocks manufactured by X-Ray rather than Serpent. The newest model (Freedom of Choice) has some additional refinements, the most important IMO being the beefed-up front pivot ball suspension which fixed some problems in EVO2 durability (T1 did not have this problem) and the inclusion of the composite front and rear C-Hub suspension as well as the pivot ball system. The EVO2 FOC is an excellent car. The T1 is also excellent and is upgradable to the EVO2 FOC but will cost more than buying a new car to make the upgrade. Depending on the options you buy, the potential adjustability is second to none.

http://www.teamxray.com/teamxray/pro...852a0de17afb57

jonathan123

How tight should ball diffs actually be? The X-ray set up book says it should take "hard force to turn the diff". What does it mean by this?

picco007

iTrader: (99)

Rayhung and University Dave,
what set up do you guys have on the rear roll centre bridge. Are you guys running on outdoor asphalt or indoor carpet? Please let me know I just got the roll centre bridge and I'm getting ready to put it in.

I would appreciate it...........

picco007

iTrader: (99)

up

Jarrod Langlois

iTrader: (1)

Jonathan- basically you want the diff to be set as loose as possible without slipping, this is when they will scrub the least amount of corner speed. then from there you can tighten and loosen them to change the balance front to rear handling wise. to check the rear diff tightness hold the spur and right rear tire and try to turn the left rear tire, it should be difficult. for the front diff, hold the left front tire and spur and with the other hand try to turn the right front tire, it should be difficult as well. hope that helps explain it.

pucho

up

university_dave

Lowest and innermost holes give you the most turn in (the longer and more inclined the rear links the higher the rear roll centre), they're the ones I use.

I've been running the Acer ceramic bearings for about 2 months, they really are fantastic. No oil needed so you won't get a set of bearings as free. The car's never been quicker. I've combined them with one of the Mission rear grey belts, it's a bit looser than the Xray version and has really improved the overall speed of my car. I'm running stupid gear ratios now and eating 19t drivers for breakfast with my 27t...

Neil Rabara

How does that belt hold up with a modified motor?