IslandBwoy

I've always wondered about that. Doesnt screwing that down ad tigh as possible put more strain on the servo? It seems that way, and gives me the impression it should be as loose as possible. Please explain.

PS. I dont see a register so that i can get a valid email and passowrd for the RoarNationals Site?!?!?!?

RKeasler

iTrader: (5)

Ran the car yesterday and my setup is totally different than any that I have seen anyone run. The car was a joy to drive, stayed where I put it, no push unless I overdrove the car. I think I will try the 2 degree blocks next time for a little better turn in. All this and a EC on the near horizon. Thanks Paul for the advice on the Losi shafts,(saved the day) they worked great using Losi pistons. Won't have to do that when I get the EC cause I will get all the spares UPS can bring. Got third but gave up second because I choked on a corner where I was having trouble all day, but the car was good. This setup is on a Mi2 that doesn't have the carpet towers or Tamiya shocks so for you guys that will still run the original Mi2 this may be a good setup to try. Time to get ready for the EC


Rod

Jon Kerr

iTrader: (17)

If you're not running a metal gear servo, it should not be locked down but not as loose as you can get it either. The tighter it is, the more precise your steering will be and the less chance you have of your trims getting goofed up. If you're running a metal gear servo, go ahead and tighten it down all the way. I know quite a few drivers who run no saver at all. Don V. is running the Corally steering rack like PW was for a while and there's no saver built into the bell crank like on the stock one and no saver built into the servo horn either.

IslandBwoy

Ah kewl. I'll tighten it down then. I'm running a metal/digital multiplex. I always thought the digital took care of the centering issues as it is always searching from center but what you said makes absolute sense.

Thanks as always,
R.

tantalus007

iTrader: (17)

P-DUB, Jon Kerr - Thanks for the info. Asked some local guys using the mi2 on our track and they showed me what you meant. The car ran fantastic on the track. I just need a litttle more practice.

Can you guys give me a good setup on our track. Here are some details. We run in a 112Ft x 90FT Asphalt Race track. The layout is always technical. Daytime track surface temp goes up tp around 60*C and down to around 30*C late afternoon til nightime. (thanks sir fbj ) By the way, i'm just using a roar stock motor. Thanks in advance guys.

Jon Kerr

iTrader: (17)

I'm sure I speak for PW when I say we're glad to help. Drop me an Email and I'll send you the outdoor setup I'm running now that should be a good start for you. [email protected]

tantalus007

iTrader: (17)

Jon Kerr- sent you an email.

aus jd 2703

iTrader: (5)

hey guys got a few questions
when u guys mash ur throttle does ur car torque steer? i think mine does cause when coasting it drives straight but when i hit the throttle it pulls to the left? i think i run my diffs loose could this be a problem?? what should i look at an check?? im running a futaba 3003 servo is that the problem??
also can u guys email me any apshalt and concrete set ups i have the carpet towers but only the standard shocks which towers should i use and any set up tips??
also will this setup system be good enough to set up a mi2?? or should i spring for the newer one??
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXKTR2&P=7
also which would be a better buy a m11 with the cheaper setup system or a srx with the newer system?? i love the m11 but have a tight budget. i have a decent charger some decent batteries and a good car so now radio gear and set up.
so any tips please pm me thanks
joshua price, australia

RKeasler

iTrader: (5)

Sounds like your car is tweaked that could cause it to veer in one direction under acceleration.

Rod

aus jd 2703

iTrader: (5)

ok so how do i get the tweek out? i know what tweak is but i was wondering apart from a set up board what else would i need??

Jon Kerr

iTrader: (17)

That's the same setup system I use. It'll work just fine. As far as the "torque steer" like Rod said, you're probably tweaked. Take the tires off and set the car on a flat surface. If you have the blocks for a droop gauge like the Schumacher one or the Hudy one, that'd be even better. The chassis should sit totally flat. If you can push on one corner and it moves, you're tweaked. You can also do this by removing the back bumper/body mounts and set the car upside down on the shock towers on the flat surface. If one corner of the tower doesn't touch, you're tweaked. First thing is to loosen all the top deck screws and the screws to the bulkheads. Then tighten the bottom screws slowly in a crossing pattern to make sure they're all tightening at an equal rate. while you've got the car upside down. then turn it over and slowly tighten the top deck screws in the same way. This will ensure the chassis is straight. Then you'll need to make sure that all the suspension is working right. Make sure all your shocks are full and equal from left to right. Make sure your droop is equal left to right. Them put the car on a tweak station like the MIP tweak station and adjust the preload on the shocks to make sure you've got even pressure side to side. You can also do this once you're gotten the droop on each side equal by setting the car on your flat board and lifting one end of the car by the notch in the center of the shock tower. If both tires aren't coming off and setting back down at the same time, you need to adjust the preload. You adjust the opposite shock. So if the right rear is coming off first, you'll add preload to the left front. This puts more weight diagonally to the right rear. Same goes for all the corners.

Hope that helps.

STLNLST

iTrader: (32)

What a weekend. I didn't make the show but had a ton of fun and everyone got to see who had the most motor down the straight... It would have been nice to be in the A but the B-main had some killer talent in it too. This was in the 19 turn class. It was soooooo fun bs'ing with all the homies. Barry Baker is also human He kicked some set up knowledge and left the rest to the driver. We put down the regular MI2 on a positive note and I can't wait to see what the EC has in store for us.

Jon- I didn't play with the F brush again. I gave them all away. I stuck with 4499's in my motors. I'll wait until Curtis is here before I'll try that brush again.

Jon Kerr

iTrader: (17)

You're the only guy I know who doesn't like the F brush. But we all know you're kind of special so that may explain it.

STLNLST

iTrader: (32)

No one at our track likes the F brush. Everyone sticks with the 767 or the 4499. I don't know if we're doing something wrong or what? Is there a different break in process that we don't know about????

AdrianM

iTrader: (4)

Everyone in FL is the same. We all prefer the 767 or 769 (has 5/64" hole in the center) over the "F". Even EA was setting up his team guys with drilled 767's at the nats.