Schumacher Corner
Tech Master
iTrader: (16)
Yo, you ever going to reply to that email I sent you!?
Also, I need lipo mounting information; I read what you guys were talking about a couple pages ago regarding flipping the belts and such. So I did that last night (along with installing a new, non-broken esc ), however I'm still not really sure what needs to be done in terms of mounting the lipo and how much/where should I put lead.
Also, I need lipo mounting information; I read what you guys were talking about a couple pages ago regarding flipping the belts and such. So I did that last night (along with installing a new, non-broken esc ), however I'm still not really sure what needs to be done in terms of mounting the lipo and how much/where should I put lead.
Yo, you ever going to reply to that email I sent you!?
Also, I need lipo mounting information; I read what you guys were talking about a couple pages ago regarding flipping the belts and such. So I did that last night (along with installing a new, non-broken esc ), however I'm still not really sure what needs to be done in terms of mounting the lipo and how much/where should I put lead.
Also, I need lipo mounting information; I read what you guys were talking about a couple pages ago regarding flipping the belts and such. So I did that last night (along with installing a new, non-broken esc ), however I'm still not really sure what needs to be done in terms of mounting the lipo and how much/where should I put lead.
Tech Elite
iTrader: (26)
Yo, you ever going to reply to that email I sent you!?
Also, I need lipo mounting information; I read what you guys were talking about a couple pages ago regarding flipping the belts and such. So I did that last night (along with installing a new, non-broken esc ), however I'm still not really sure what needs to be done in terms of mounting the lipo and how much/where should I put lead.
Also, I need lipo mounting information; I read what you guys were talking about a couple pages ago regarding flipping the belts and such. So I did that last night (along with installing a new, non-broken esc ), however I'm still not really sure what needs to be done in terms of mounting the lipo and how much/where should I put lead.
You can add weights to the right side of the pack...or you can use weights under the pack in the battery slots and glue them to the pack like this:
http://www.nexusracing.com/newsdesk_...8f9f2bb3de6240
Or as Adrian Martinez prefers, which is to mount the lipo about 2mm past the right side of chassis(batt side), and then add some weight on the inside of the battery(facing the motor/belts).
Tech Elite
iTrader: (49)
I cut lexan pieces the size and shape of the battery slots and servo taped it to the bottom of my Lipo. Core 5000 is flush with the edge of the chassis. I haven't checked the balance with the esc moved over yet. how are y'all checking balance without holes in the chassis? Ive tried the multiple scale method, but I get largely varied results with little to no repeatability.
Tech Master
iTrader: (16)
Thanks for the tips on lipo mounting guys.
On the Mi2 we had some towers with dimples centered in the bottom of them so you could balance the car with just two wrenches. I'm not sure who's towers they were, of if they were ever in production (over the whole period we ran the Mi2 I think I tried at least 75 individual different shock towers LOL), but it was a nice feature. So if you think you're precise enough with a dremel and some calipers, you could try this method for balancing.
For those of you who aren't running much (or any) lead, are you finding any problems with having your car so light?
On the Mi2 we had some towers with dimples centered in the bottom of them so you could balance the car with just two wrenches. I'm not sure who's towers they were, of if they were ever in production (over the whole period we ran the Mi2 I think I tried at least 75 individual different shock towers LOL), but it was a nice feature. So if you think you're precise enough with a dremel and some calipers, you could try this method for balancing.
For those of you who aren't running much (or any) lead, are you finding any problems with having your car so light?
Tech Champion
iTrader: (32)
Thanks for the tips on lipo mounting guys.
On the Mi2 we had some towers with dimples centered in the bottom of them so you could balance the car with just two wrenches. I'm not sure who's towers they were, of if they were ever in production (over the whole period we ran the Mi2 I think I tried at least 75 individual different shock towers LOL), but it was a nice feature. So if you think you're precise enough with a dremel and some calipers, you could try this method for balancing.
For those of you who aren't running much (or any) lead, are you finding any problems with having your car so light?
On the Mi2 we had some towers with dimples centered in the bottom of them so you could balance the car with just two wrenches. I'm not sure who's towers they were, of if they were ever in production (over the whole period we ran the Mi2 I think I tried at least 75 individual different shock towers LOL), but it was a nice feature. So if you think you're precise enough with a dremel and some calipers, you could try this method for balancing.
For those of you who aren't running much (or any) lead, are you finding any problems with having your car so light?
Tech Master
iTrader: (16)
You lookin for another excuse to wear your little black dress again, big guy? hahahaha we'll see how it works out with school. Unfortunately in college my professors aren't as stoked about me turning in work late. Maybe we should ask Scotty to move the race date forward .
I think I'll probably start the car out as the standard minimum weight for 6c nimh.
I think I'll probably start the car out as the standard minimum weight for 6c nimh.
Tech Champion
iTrader: (13)
Not a schuie guy, but a light car usually sucks compared to what we're used to Weylin. The entire suspension setup needs to be softer and radically different in how much setup changes affect the car. Just run it at std min weight and you'll be dialed
Oh... and I second the late work thing... Makes racing hard haha
-Korey
Oh... and I second the late work thing... Makes racing hard haha
-Korey
Tech Elite
iTrader: (49)
I have been running my Mi3 with no weight added. It is right at the 6 cell foam min weight. I don't run anything light weight however. I'm talking steel driveshafts, std bulkheads, steel screws, std bodies, etc. The car feels great to me left to right, although I know the car is not balanced left to right, although its much closer now that I've moved the belts and ESC around. I suggest you try the car at the min weight and see what you think. Its not hard at all to add a little lead if you feel the need. A lot of this is difficult to ascertain on the web though as you don't really know what one person's standard is when it comes to a car handling "great".
You lookin for another excuse to wear your little black dress again, big guy? hahahaha we'll see how it works out with school. Unfortunately in college my professors aren't as stoked about me turning in work late. Maybe we should ask Scotty to move the race date forward .
I think I'll probably start the car out as the standard minimum weight for 6c nimh.
I think I'll probably start the car out as the standard minimum weight for 6c nimh.
couple of options, i have some of the PPD weights that go in the battery slot and act like a battery locater you can have, you can also get the ppd side plate, or for a quick but not very attractive fix, go to the hobbyshop and buy a strip of brass thats one inch wide, make sure you buy a piece long enough to cut in half to make two pieces, the core 5000 and these two pieces will put your car at weight. the battery locater weights aren't a must, but it will keep the lipo from moving, or use double sided scotch tape on the bottom of the battery.
You must be getting ready for a little NWIC action?
Tech Adept
iTrader: (8)
Does anyone have a good vintage trans-am setup for an Mi3 with 21.5 and a lipo?
Tech Master
iTrader: (16)
couple of options, i have some of the PPD weights that go in the battery slot and act like a battery locater you can have, you can also get the ppd side plate, or for a quick but not very attractive fix, go to the hobbyshop and buy a strip of brass thats one inch wide, make sure you buy a piece long enough to cut in half to make two pieces, the core 5000 and these two pieces will put your car at weight. the battery locater weights aren't a must, but it will keep the lipo from moving, or use double sided scotch tape on the bottom of the battery.
You must be getting ready for a little NWIC action?
You must be getting ready for a little NWIC action?
Last edited by mini-dub; 11-03-2008 at 02:06 PM.
Tech Champion
iTrader: (32)
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: In a land of mini-mighty mental giants
Posts: 8,854
Trader Rating: 32 (100%+)
I would say start with stock carpet setup then change the oil to 30wt in the front and 25wt in the rear with white springs all the way around. Make the rear end of the car wider like 1mm perside so the rear of the car is closer to 190mm wide. Gearing for a 21.5 lipo 96/41 should be about 4.3ish and seems to work great on long and smaller tracks speed wise. This will get you close then just tune from there to your liking. It looks like the cars like to be run really soft like softer then you would run standard rubber tire car.
Tech Elite
iTrader: (8)
What size turn buckle wrench do i need my the MI3s TBs?
Tech Adept
iTrader: (8)
I would say start with stock carpet setup then change the oil to 30wt in the front and 25wt in the rear with white springs all the way around. Make the rear end of the car wider like 1mm perside so the rear of the car is closer to 190mm wide. Gearing for a 21.5 lipo 96/41 should be about 4.3ish and seems to work great on long and smaller tracks speed wise. This will get you close then just tune from there to your liking. It looks like the cars like to be run really soft like softer then you would run standard rubber tire car.