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Xray XB2 2WD Buggy Thread

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Old 05-04-2019, 06:44 PM   -   Wikipost
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Last edit by: dgrobe2112
Instruction manuals: (C/O BentKa)

Xray XB2 Carpet Edition Instruction Manual
http://www.teamxray.com/xb2/2016/dow...ual_v2_low.pdf

Xray XB2 Dirt Edition Instruction Manual
http://www.teamxray.com/xb2/2016/dow...w.pdf?update=2

BentKa: Carpet Edition 4 gear to 3 gear laydown conversion parts:
  • Gearbox #323014
  • Motorplate #324012
  • 36T idler gear #324236
  • Brace for waterfall #324031


Socket: Bodies Available:

Xray has two OEM bodies, the .75mm and the .50mm light weight:
light weight: https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-xb...329701/p492942

OEM .75mm: https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-0....329700/p477762

Also, I've fitted the yz2 body, both the light and regular fit fine, just make your own cut lines:
https://www.amainhobbies.com/yokomo-...z2-101/p417674


[i] J Concepts S2 Body [i]


Penguin Racing makes a high grip body that fits the DE and CE:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/X-Ray-Xb2-Hi...oAAOSw1S9WewHV



Socket: Wheel fitment:

According to some, you'll require different offset rear hexes to use B5M wheels. According to my Hudy setup board, B5M wheels are the same offset. I measured the overall width of the car with XB2 wheels, and then again with B5M wheels, same measurement.

On the front, B5M wheels were 1.5mm wider. Xray offers hexes to reduce width -.75 on each side, or you could spend 3-5 minutes and sand your OEM hexes down .75mm.

edit by dgrobe2112
here are the hubs for losi and AE

for AE Front 365354 -0.75
for Losi rear 365358 +3.00 (4 stripe)
for AE rear 365359 +3.75 (5 stripe) or add 1.5mm carbon avid spacers



Socket: Flex and the XB2:

Flex screws are as follows:

Plastic bulkhead between motor and waterfall. Can remove screw in chassis, or remove bulkhead altogether.

Waterfall has 4 screws, can remove the inner two or outer two. IIRC, removing the inner two provides more flex, and thus more bite.

Removing the battery brace. This gives a tremendous amount of flex on the middle of the car, and can sometimes be inconsistent. I do this for outdoor racing on low bite. I like the feel over the 4 gear in 17.5 racing, since the 4 gear will take some snap away off the corner.

Rear C block - has inner and outer screws. I haven't played with this, as it's a crucial pivot point of the car.

Medium arms and towers -> I don't believe the carpet car has the rear medium tower available, however the DE DOES have an optional hard part. I think the hard parts are more consistent, especially when it gets hot (90+ degrees F). However, the medium parts do NOT break unless you're severely talented. They also don't wear out.



Socket: Avid/Schelle Slipper mod:

Credit to WillS, Matt Trimmings, and myself for figuring this out months ago.

Parts you'll need:

B5M V2 3gear compatible top shaft.
TKO Special 5x13x5 bear OR 5x13x6 bearing Either can work. This replaces the spur side bearing on the top shaft.
5mm shims, same shims used in 1/8th scale clutch bells. Look for protek .1mm and .2mm kit.
Avid or Schelle b5m top shaft kit, with spur gears of your choosing. (DE can't handle a 69, the CE can)

Shimming: You'll need to install the bearing in the front portion of the removable piece for the shaft. Make sure the bearing is pushed all the way in. With the TKO bearing, you'll need to shim approximately 1.4mm on the front side of the top shaft. Roughly .3-.5mm with the other bearing. This is a "feel" and tolerance setting. I urge you to watch videos about setting clutch bell play in 1/8th scale to get an idea of what yield you want for end play. Too tight, it'll eat bearings.

Outside of trans case: Use Avid/Schelle top shaft spacer plus .2mm shim to offset slipper from motor plate perfectly. Install slipper as instructed, and use Avid/Schelle spring and XB2 slipper nut.

- NEW - Schelle now sells Xb2 Topshafts. They include a spacer, so no need for shims in gearbox, and comes with the smaller bearing. Both methods work.

Socket: Yokomo Differential or MIP pucks:

Credit to: WillS for figuring out pucks, and as well fitting the Losi 22 diff with the same mods.

Parts needed: Yokomo Bmax2 or YZ2 complete diff OR Mip PUCKS outdrives
Xb2 diff gear
Bmax2 V3 Worlds rear dog bones, or Bmax 2 pucks dog bones
You'll use XB2 axles, and will require no other mods for the axles or dog bones.
You'll need .2mm outdrive/diff shims. Shim approximately .5mm on each side of the diff, behind the bearings. The top portion of the transmission is what "sets" the diff in place, not the bottom half. A little play back and forth is fine, the stock diff has some play from the factory.

dgrobe2112: CE to DE conversion:
along with the parts needed.. you MUST have these following hardware, or it wont work

https://www.teamxray.com/xb2/2016/do...conversion.pdf

(3) XRAY 902340 M3x40 button head screws. these are the screws that mount the motor mount to the tranny
(4) XRAY 903322 M3x22 counter sunk screws. these are for the rear diff case, to mount to the chassis. i think i used some M3x18 and they worked ok.

Socket: Best method for setting up the XB2 ball diff:

The XB2 diff is stellar when setup correctly. The spring is too short and soft, allowing the diff to slip. You'll need to glue the rings to the outdrives with just a drop of CA, then add a 1mm shim between the spring and the outdrive. This preloads the spring and stops the diff from slipping so easily.

OR, you can run the AE diff spring, which is both slightly longer, and stiffer. The overwhelming issue is the stock spring allows the nut to bottom out on the outdrive before the diff is tight enough.

This shim:
https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-al...a303122/p12070

This diff spring (don't need a shim, then.)

https://www.teamassociated.com/parts...thrust_spring/

Functional Aftermarket parts: (Not just bling!)

Servo Horn: (The B5M sized horns are too short to get full throw)
https://www.amainhobbies.com/protek-...800-bk/p273496


Socket: Exotek has a full suite of parts, some bling, some not. Here's a list (all fit DE and CE, unless otherwise noted):

Titanium front axles: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-titanium-front-axles-2/

Rear Hanger, HD (Adds 4 grams): http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-rear...75-heavy-duty/

Brass C block, 18 grams added: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-rear...-brass-weight/

Alloy front camber mount: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-fron...er-mount-7075/

Carbon Fiber Chassis: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-carb...m-plate-2-5mm/

Alloy rear hubs:http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-allo...ub-set-2-7075/

Alloy servo mounts, allow for use of LP servo:http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-xb4-...-alloy-1-pair/

Titanium shock mounts: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-xb4-...shock-posts-2/

Slipper Eliminator: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-direct-spur-mount/
Xray eliminator is #324100

dgrobe2112: 2016-2017 new 3 gear laydown
Gearbox #323014
Motor plate #324012
36T idler gear #324236
Brace for waterfall #324031

dgrobe2112: Xray Spring Rate Conversion:
front C WHT
368174 2 str 0.65-0.85 3.71-4.85

358184 2 dot 0.65 3.71
368185 3 dot 0.72 4.11
368186 4 dot 0.80 4.57


Rear
368273 2 str 0.35-0.45 2.00-2.57

368284 1 Dot 0.35 2.00
368285 2 Dot 0.40 2.28
368286 3 Dot 0.45 2.57
368287 4 Dot 0.50 2.86

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Old 02-24-2018, 03:57 PM
  #5491  
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Marshal gloves
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Old 02-24-2018, 07:21 PM
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Originally Posted by PEDAL
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Right over your head, huh?
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Old 02-24-2018, 07:37 PM
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Tougher fingers
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Old 02-25-2018, 10:49 AM
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Default Xb2 servo hole width

Hi all, curious if anyone knows what servo the Xray 1/10th offroad platforms are built around. It’s not a big deal by any means but the servos I’ve tried all seem narrower than the holes drilled in the bottom of the chassis. Current servos I’ve been running work just fine but would prefer one I could mount with servo centering washers or countersunk screws
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Old 02-25-2018, 11:09 AM
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I'm using a hitech 7940 which fits nicely. I thought it would be possibly to large but fits fine.
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Old 02-25-2018, 01:49 PM
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Originally Posted by SlipDiff
Hi all, curious if anyone knows what servo the Xray 1/10th offroad platforms are built around. It’s not a big deal by any means but the servos I’ve tried all seem narrower than the holes drilled in the bottom of the chassis. Current servos I’ve been running work just fine but would prefer one I could mount with servo centering washers or countersunk screws
My Savox dropped right in.
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Old 02-25-2018, 02:58 PM
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I've got a 2017 NIB that I'll sell one of for 310


Originally Posted by tekayi
It's not from my car, I have carpet edition with gear diff. But a lot of guys here try to race ball diff on carpet, because the dirt kit from 2016 is cheap, like $280. They know they shouldn't do it, but they want to have an Xray car.
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Old 02-25-2018, 03:23 PM
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I'm running a cavaliery with no issues. I think most competitive servos are going to work well. Though Xray is bit of a snobbish chassis... I can't see them alienating entire product lines.

Originally Posted by SlipDiff
Hi all, curious if anyone knows what servo the Xray 1/10th offroad platforms are built around. It’s not a big deal by any means but the servos I’ve tried all seem narrower than the holes drilled in the bottom of the chassis. Current servos I’ve been running work just fine but would prefer one I could mount with servo centering washers or countersunk screws
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Old 02-27-2018, 08:50 AM
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i run KO servos.. no issue.. friends run futaba no issue..
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Old 02-27-2018, 09:10 AM
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Originally Posted by SlipDiff
Hi all, curious if anyone knows what servo the Xray 1/10th offroad platforms are built around. It’s not a big deal by any means but the servos I’ve tried all seem narrower than the holes drilled in the bottom of the chassis. Current servos I’ve been running work just fine but would prefer one I could mount with servo centering washers or countersunk screws
Funny everyone else says "its fine" but I have the same issue as you. I have to put the mounts on the edge of the holes for all 3 servos I have tried, KO, HiTech, and Spectrum. It works, but sure seems to be wider then the center of the servo holes.
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Old 02-28-2018, 08:05 AM
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I'm running Xpert Servos without any issues.

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Old 02-28-2018, 08:43 AM
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Originally Posted by Rexracing
Funny everyone else says "its fine" but I have the same issue as you. I have to put the mounts on the edge of the holes for all 3 servos I have tried, KO, HiTech, and Spectrum. It works, but sure seems to be wider then the center of the servo holes.
I suspect that Xray designed the servo mount to encompass all brands of servos. That means some will fit in the middle, some will fit on the edges. I can't remember the last car I owned where the servo lined up with the mounts perfectly.
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Old 02-28-2018, 09:40 AM
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Originally Posted by dgdcustoms
I'm running Xpert Servos without any issues.
I can see in that picture the mounts are at the edge of the holes, but as said above, its a universal fit. It works, but just not perfectly centered on every servo.
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Old 02-28-2018, 10:08 AM
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Will raising the pins add more steering in tight corners? I have more than adequate grip and looking for more steering. Already have the brass nose piece. Need some tips for more steering in general. thx
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Old 02-28-2018, 10:57 AM
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Yes, higher rear RC will help with rotation.
Also try 2* anti-squat, 1* rear toe & heavier diff fluid. All will free up the rear off power and help with rotation/steering.
Rear sway bar & higher front RC will add steering too.
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