Team Magic G4
08-14-2006, 09:21 PM
#1666
Those are nice pieces of engineering. I guess the only question I have is - Why?
I guess it's because it's there.
With the Hoda version, I take it there is a spacer under those cells for the receiver. So the cells on the bottom don't touch the belt? Wouldn't this negate any advantage over standing up the servo?
Cheers,
Mike.
I guess it's because it's there.
With the Hoda version, I take it there is a spacer under those cells for the receiver. So the cells on the bottom don't touch the belt? Wouldn't this negate any advantage over standing up the servo?
Cheers,
Mike.
08-14-2006, 09:51 PM
#1667
Now why is everyone prefer the throttle servo standing up? Just because the new Kyosho RRR Evo has it? 
08-15-2006, 04:10 AM
#1670
Car breaker, Beleive it or not the receiver is already in there!... it is on the left side of the throttle servo...all I have to do is put my servo horn on and It is ready to go. Here is a closer pic the rec. is behind the orion rds sticker enclosed in a protective plastic casing.
Zoom, The reason I did this is because I really do not like the g4 spaceship like tank.... pit stops are difficult do to the ribs in the tank when the lid is opened then if it gets over flowed all the fuel is run down hill all over the electronics....this way it will run right down to the chassis and to the ground....and there are no ribs in the lid of this tank plus with this one you can see when its full....with the g4 tank there is no warning your almost full until the fuel reaches that upper deck by then it's shoot'n back out the top.
Another reason is, when the g4 has more or less fuel it reaLly affects the handling!....so by putting in a tank that keeps the fuel on an equal plain through out the entire run should help that and having the stand up servo on one side and the rec. pack directly across from that should really balance it out and again make it handle the same through out the entire tank of fuel and placing everything closer to the center should make the car a little more planted.....Well anyways I'll try it this weekend! Thanks for the compliment!
Zoom, The reason I did this is because I really do not like the g4 spaceship like tank.... pit stops are difficult do to the ribs in the tank when the lid is opened then if it gets over flowed all the fuel is run down hill all over the electronics....this way it will run right down to the chassis and to the ground....and there are no ribs in the lid of this tank plus with this one you can see when its full....with the g4 tank there is no warning your almost full until the fuel reaches that upper deck by then it's shoot'n back out the top.
Another reason is, when the g4 has more or less fuel it reaLly affects the handling!....so by putting in a tank that keeps the fuel on an equal plain through out the entire run should help that and having the stand up servo on one side and the rec. pack directly across from that should really balance it out and again make it handle the same through out the entire tank of fuel and placing everything closer to the center should make the car a little more planted.....Well anyways I'll try it this weekend! Thanks for the compliment!
08-15-2006, 09:51 AM
#1671
Fly that banner high and proud Bunny Bear, you are going to be one fast dude, opps sorry, one fast mate there in Australia.
Fun helping you guys out! Thanks
Need some pics also!
Sam
Fun helping you guys out! Thanks
Need some pics also!
Sam
08-15-2006, 04:50 PM
#1672
Good reply Steve - At least now I know the thinking behind your mods.
Just for info though, there is only 13% of the fuel above the radio tray in the standard fuel tank, wheras now you'll be more like 22% or 23% so while it's in a slightly more compact area like you said, it's taller and heavier above the radio tray. Evenly offsetting weight from the electronics is ok, though you would need to look at the actual weight amounts on each wheel when ready to race to determine if your balance is correct. I did a couple of things to the G4S to get the balance as close to nuetral as possible so the setup can act more consistently.
Like you say, the proof is in the lap times so I wish you all the best. I don't think there is any one formula that is the best so go get em!
Cheers,
Mike.
Just for info though, there is only 13% of the fuel above the radio tray in the standard fuel tank, wheras now you'll be more like 22% or 23% so while it's in a slightly more compact area like you said, it's taller and heavier above the radio tray. Evenly offsetting weight from the electronics is ok, though you would need to look at the actual weight amounts on each wheel when ready to race to determine if your balance is correct. I did a couple of things to the G4S to get the balance as close to nuetral as possible so the setup can act more consistently.
Like you say, the proof is in the lap times so I wish you all the best. I don't think there is any one formula that is the best so go get em!
Cheers,
Mike.
08-15-2006, 05:21 PM
#1673
Mike, Thanks! I will let you guys know how it works...... I would guess it should only be the same or better.....I Hope!!
08-15-2006, 10:17 PM
#1674
Originally Posted by SCUBA STEVE
...... Another reason is, when the g4 has more or less fuel it reaLly affects the handling!....so by putting in a tank that keeps the fuel on an equal plain through out the entire run should help that and having the stand up servo on one side and the rec. pack directly across from that should really balance it out and again make it handle the same through out the entire tank of fuel and placing everything closer to the center should make the car a little more planted.....Well anyways I'll try it this weekend! Thanks for the compliment!
I'm getting the same feeling. Every refueling beyond 25 minutes mark, I feel the car is better to drive when the tank is full and become awful to drive when the tank is going empty.
08-16-2006, 01:51 AM
#1675
Originally Posted by G4S'er
Fly that banner high and proud Bunny Bear, you are going to be one fast dude, opps sorry, one fast mate there in Australia.
Fun helping you guys out! Thanks
Need some pics also!
Sam
Fun helping you guys out! Thanks
Need some pics also!
Sam
Thanks.. Pleasure dealing with you and look forward to it continuing in the future.
I will post pics after the build the process, just have to wait for the mailman
Thanks,
Andy
08-16-2006, 04:00 AM
#1676
Originally Posted by Bundy_Bear
Hi Sam
Thanks.. Pleasure dealing with you and look forward to it continuing in the future.
I will post pics after the build the process, just have to wait for the mailman
Thanks,
Andy
Thanks.. Pleasure dealing with you and look forward to it continuing in the future.
I will post pics after the build the process, just have to wait for the mailman
Thanks,
Andy
08-16-2006, 07:38 AM
#1677
Hello
some Pictures from the Euro:
Darren with the german Team Magic Driver Marc Kreisig......
For me it was the last Time this year with The G4(S)
After 3 years ago i dont found a Dealer or Driver with spare Parts by the Track.
marc K dont drive Team Magic next year so i the only G4S driver on Races in West Germany.......
I was a good Time with you all
Thanks for all
Marc
some Pictures from the Euro:
Darren with the german Team Magic Driver Marc Kreisig......
For me it was the last Time this year with The G4(S)
After 3 years ago i dont found a Dealer or Driver with spare Parts by the Track.
marc K dont drive Team Magic next year so i the only G4S driver on Races in West Germany.......
I was a good Time with you all
Thanks for all
Marc
08-16-2006, 05:10 PM
#1678
Tech Adept
Originally Posted by Motorman
Hugo,
we want to slow the speed of the transmission and mainshaft down. if you use 18 the FDR is 2.80. if you can get to 20 the FDR is 2.40. what we are doing is slowing the mainshaft down so we have to gear the engine lower. The transmission is the heaviest rotating part of the car and it takes the most power to spin it up and down between gears which eats power. (inertia is the enemy) If we don't spin it up as high between gears its all free power that is not wasted spinning up excess rotating inertia. the difference between 2.80 and 2.40 is several thousand less rpm on the mainshaft between each acceleration and deceleration of the transmission.
However using 20's on the mainshaft with 18 as a first gear pinion will not allow you to gear low enough. (on stop and go USA type tracks, this is less of an issue on large sweeper tracks like europe has.) for 20's you really need to go 16 or 17 on first gear which you cant do on the G4s clutch bell as it is. However this can be done with a modified kyosho UFO bell and modified kyosho pinions.
we want to slow the speed of the transmission and mainshaft down. if you use 18 the FDR is 2.80. if you can get to 20 the FDR is 2.40. what we are doing is slowing the mainshaft down so we have to gear the engine lower. The transmission is the heaviest rotating part of the car and it takes the most power to spin it up and down between gears which eats power. (inertia is the enemy) If we don't spin it up as high between gears its all free power that is not wasted spinning up excess rotating inertia. the difference between 2.80 and 2.40 is several thousand less rpm on the mainshaft between each acceleration and deceleration of the transmission.
However using 20's on the mainshaft with 18 as a first gear pinion will not allow you to gear low enough. (on stop and go USA type tracks, this is less of an issue on large sweeper tracks like europe has.) for 20's you really need to go 16 or 17 on first gear which you cant do on the G4s clutch bell as it is. However this can be done with a modified kyosho UFO bell and modified kyosho pinions.
08-16-2006, 10:40 PM
#1679
I think I have a clue on how this is done.
I tried fitting an engine with a regular Kyosho clutch into the car. The Kyosho clutchbell is too long, so both the pinions and the bell have to be shortened since they stick out too far and do not mesh with the spurs. The clutchbell also hits the second gear spur.
So the pinions have to be cut shorter, making sure the thread on the 1st pinion remains intact. Care must be taken to align pinions with corresponding spurs when cutting pinions. I would also suggest not using the one-piece engine mount since it would not allow the engine to sit as far as could be necessary.
Since I do not have a kyosho UFO clutchbell I do not know how heavily it has to be modified. So I'll have a friend machine a new one and thread it for the kyosho pinions. We'll make it out of aluminum for its lightweight.
So that is my opinion on the subject.
Wish me luck!
I tried fitting an engine with a regular Kyosho clutch into the car. The Kyosho clutchbell is too long, so both the pinions and the bell have to be shortened since they stick out too far and do not mesh with the spurs. The clutchbell also hits the second gear spur.
So the pinions have to be cut shorter, making sure the thread on the 1st pinion remains intact. Care must be taken to align pinions with corresponding spurs when cutting pinions. I would also suggest not using the one-piece engine mount since it would not allow the engine to sit as far as could be necessary.
Since I do not have a kyosho UFO clutchbell I do not know how heavily it has to be modified. So I'll have a friend machine a new one and thread it for the kyosho pinions. We'll make it out of aluminum for its lightweight.
So that is my opinion on the subject.
Wish me luck!
