T.O.P. Racing "Photon" 1/10 EP Touring Car
#2701
Tech Elite
iTrader: (1)
Guys, does anyone else have this:
My lower chassis plate is bowed. If I lay the car on a flat surface there's a bit of rock and I measure, with the middle touching, a 1mm gap between the board and the front and rear edges of the chassis. If you push the rear down flat then there's a 2mm gap between the board and the front edge of the chassis.
If I undo the top deck the chassis goes back to being flat.
My belts are pretty loose (10mm deflection on the front belt with small pressure and a bit less on the rear belt). I've tried loosening all the bukheads and re torquing them in several differnt orders and normally nip them up before I go around again to tighten. It seems like the upper deck is too short.....
The car is very good, and as I dial in the setup I'm going faster and faster (got FTD club racing yesterday) but I'd like to figure out if there's something up with my kit or if they're all like this.... Anyone else?
Cheers,
Chris.
My lower chassis plate is bowed. If I lay the car on a flat surface there's a bit of rock and I measure, with the middle touching, a 1mm gap between the board and the front and rear edges of the chassis. If you push the rear down flat then there's a 2mm gap between the board and the front edge of the chassis.
If I undo the top deck the chassis goes back to being flat.
My belts are pretty loose (10mm deflection on the front belt with small pressure and a bit less on the rear belt). I've tried loosening all the bukheads and re torquing them in several differnt orders and normally nip them up before I go around again to tighten. It seems like the upper deck is too short.....
The car is very good, and as I dial in the setup I'm going faster and faster (got FTD club racing yesterday) but I'd like to figure out if there's something up with my kit or if they're all like this.... Anyone else?
Cheers,
Chris.
If you have tried everything I would say take your bulkheads off and see that they are flat. If not then call Micheal at Top and he will get you sorted out.
#2702
Guys, does anyone else have this:
My lower chassis plate is bowed. If I lay the car on a flat surface there's a bit of rock and I measure, with the middle touching, a 1mm gap between the board and the front and rear edges of the chassis. If you push the rear down flat then there's a 2mm gap between the board and the front edge of the chassis.
If I undo the top deck the chassis goes back to being flat.
My belts are pretty loose (10mm deflection on the front belt with small pressure and a bit less on the rear belt). I've tried loosening all the bukheads and re torquing them in several differnt orders and normally nip them up before I go around again to tighten. It seems like the upper deck is too short.....
The car is very good, and as I dial in the setup I'm going faster and faster (got FTD club racing yesterday) but I'd like to figure out if there's something up with my kit or if they're all like this.... Anyone else?
Cheers,
Chris.
My lower chassis plate is bowed. If I lay the car on a flat surface there's a bit of rock and I measure, with the middle touching, a 1mm gap between the board and the front and rear edges of the chassis. If you push the rear down flat then there's a 2mm gap between the board and the front edge of the chassis.
If I undo the top deck the chassis goes back to being flat.
My belts are pretty loose (10mm deflection on the front belt with small pressure and a bit less on the rear belt). I've tried loosening all the bukheads and re torquing them in several differnt orders and normally nip them up before I go around again to tighten. It seems like the upper deck is too short.....
The car is very good, and as I dial in the setup I'm going faster and faster (got FTD club racing yesterday) but I'd like to figure out if there's something up with my kit or if they're all like this.... Anyone else?
Cheers,
Chris.
Loosen all top deck screws INCLUDING the lay shaft screws. Tighten all of the top deck screws then finally tighten up the lay shaft screws should fix your problem.
If you tighten up the lay shaft first it seems to pull the bulkheads together pinching on the chassis giving the tweak you describe.
Regards
Chris
#2706
Regarding the chassis flatness,
I had this exact same problem in two kits, one after a couple of months and the other when was brand new... I think E.J. Goop and Larry saw how much of a bow it had to it in Vegas.
I tried everything to remedy it, including new bulkheads, new screws, new bottom deck.
Even taking the car down to nothing every run and building it up one item at a time to see when the tweek occured.
In the end I narrowed it down to the chassis wings, try fliping them over and fitting button screws, it minimized the problem for me.
I feel alot of the tweek is caused by having the car braced so much due to the counter sunk screws. It only takes a slight imperfection, be it dirt, off centre screw etc to cause it.
Hth
Luke
I had this exact same problem in two kits, one after a couple of months and the other when was brand new... I think E.J. Goop and Larry saw how much of a bow it had to it in Vegas.
I tried everything to remedy it, including new bulkheads, new screws, new bottom deck.
Even taking the car down to nothing every run and building it up one item at a time to see when the tweek occured.
In the end I narrowed it down to the chassis wings, try fliping them over and fitting button screws, it minimized the problem for me.
I feel alot of the tweek is caused by having the car braced so much due to the counter sunk screws. It only takes a slight imperfection, be it dirt, off centre screw etc to cause it.
Hth
Luke
#2708
Tech Master
I use from 1,5 till 2,5 degree toe on my car. Just depends on what track I drive.
#2709
is their an eta on 6deg castor blocks. still wondering why companies put 4deg blocks in carpet kits when most people use 6deg c hubs.
#2711
Tech Master
#2712
Tech Elite
iTrader: (1)
Still in the works but the car has a ton of steering with the 4 deg hubs. If you are really bent on using 6's I'm sure a borrowed set from another car can be made to work. If you like post up your setup and we can make a few suggestions for more steering wherever you are lacking.
#2713
For now, you can use X-Ray caster blocks and caster block busings. That's what Larry and I have been doing as a stop gap measure. All you have to do is sand a little bit of the caster block to fit in the arm freely and use a .5mm shim on the steering block to get rid of any vertical slop.
#2714
Had a good showing this weekend at the first anual Timezone Gran Prix. put the Photon foam (with 6 degree Xray castor blocks) 3rd on the grid and finished that way. The car works great, still working on setup, not much time before the race, and trying to race and being shop owner is tough.....
I want to give a HUGE thanks to Michael from Top USA who provided some give away items and came up north to run with us. I think the US Carpet spec has some great potential, can't wait to get some more packs through it.
I want to give a HUGE thanks to Michael from Top USA who provided some give away items and came up north to run with us. I think the US Carpet spec has some great potential, can't wait to get some more packs through it.
#2715
Well, I finally got the owner of my lhs To track down the info the get setup to carry top parts. Hopefully he will get thrugh this process asap and I can get my photon ordered next week! When I order the car is there any thing that is recommended changing to run rubber tires on carpet? Of course I plan on getting the rubber spec, but I've seen where people are changing decks and such for running rubber on carpet. This will be the first new touring or offroad car for that matter that I've ever bought andi want to get it setup right out the door. Am I reading to much into it and the car is fine out of the box on carpet with rubber? I'm just going to run stock sedan 17.5 class with it. Wish me luck and I'll probably be back around in the near future with questions during the build!