Photocycler

iTrader: (36)

Is there a thread for the F104V.2? I just bought one and looking for setup tips.

Also, with the wheels that come with it—can I run any rubber tire?

Photocycler

iTrader: (36)

Is there a thread for the F104V.2? I just bought one and looking for setup tips.

Also, with the wheels that come with it—can I run any rubber tire?

roger999

iTrader: (13)

Guys, just wondering what upgrade would be better for my f104 pro... Exotek f1r2 or just upgrade to full f104 ver 2?

Pro10noob

iTrader: (13)

In my opinion??
If the rules let you, go Exotek.

Regards Roy

chef88

iTrader: (75)

Guys
Have a F104 for sale.
With a bunch of goodies
Great for someone ready to get into an F1
http://www.rctech.net/forum/r-c-item...ya-f104x1.html
Thanks

monkeyracing

iTrader: (10)

Thought I'd bring this thread back from the dead.

I'm putting together an F104/F104 Pro and have questions. First, how do you fit the steering ballstuds on the back side of the servo saver and actually have it clear the servo body. I'm using a Kimbrough, but had the same results with a Tamiya, where the ballstuds contact the body of the servo, even without cups on them.

How close is .4 mod to actual 64p? I think I have a stock spur gear on the car and it makes a bit too much noise when used with a 64p pinion. Would swapping to 48p be a better idea?

Anyone ever shortened the top plate, as seen in the X1, on a regular F104? I know it will increase mechanical grip. Any downsides?

More questions later!

monkeyracing

iTrader: (10)

Thought I'd bring this thread back from the dead.

I'm putting together an F104/F104 Pro and have questions. First, how do you fit the steering ballstuds on the back side of the servo saver and actually have it clear the servo body. I'm using a Kimbrough, but had the same results with a Tamiya, where the ballstuds contact the body of the servo, even without cups on them.

How close is .4 mod to actual 64p? I think I have a stock spur gear on the car and it makes a bit too much noise when used with a 64p pinion. Would swapping to 48p be a better idea?

Anyone ever shortened the top plate, as seen in the X1, on a regular F104? I know it will increase mechanical grip. Any downsides?

More questions later!

JayL

I did it like the F104v.2 manual: front of saver

but then I swapped all my F1's to laydown shorty servo and xray saver

Thaan

Switching to 48DP will only make the noise worse, the finer the pitch the less the noise.

monkeyracing

iTrader: (10)

Figured out how to do it using stuff I've got. This is a nice modification.

This isn't always true. I swapped to 48 from 64 in my TC and it's not appreciably louder. I'm just looking at it from the perspective of being stronger, easier to mesh and actually compatible.

The opinions on whether 0.4 mod and 64p are compatible are split 50/50.

Hua

iTrader: (9)

Hi all, i thinking of getting F104 with a 1s Lipo set-up. I need some advice from u guys to clear some some of my doubt.

Here are the electronic i plan to use on:
1s ESC, 1s Lipo
17.5/21.5T motor
All rubber tyres
Standard Servo eg: Futaba 3003

1) With rubber tyres, will the ESC/Lipo take excessive load since its 3.7V?
2) What gear ratio should i go for if i'm running 17.5/21.5T? will 3 be good enough?

monkeyracing

iTrader: (10)

Do you have to use a 1s battery, or is this a choice? Given the choice, I'd go 2s. ProTek make a very nice 2s pack that's small enough for a pan car, or 2s shorty packs from Turnigy are a pretty good deal.

I don't think the ESC would face excessive stress, as long as the car is set up the right way, with proper gearing. You may want to look at what sort of gearing is being run in 1/10 pan car classes like WGT, where 1s is fairly common.

mhopper

iTrader: (1)

I realize this is an old thread but I will give it a shot...I have a 3 racing out tuned ball diff. I built it exactly to the instructions. Even if I tighten the diff as tight as possible, by lap two the diff has loosened to the point that the motor no longer is able to spin the wheels. What the heck am I doing wrong?

robk

iTrader: (22)

I had one of those diffs and sadly the idea is better than the execution. Maybe try threadlock on the threads for the external adjuster.

VooDooPH

iTrader: (18)

mount them in front or you can try using shorter ballstuds. or, as suggested, use a low profile servo so you can lay it down and run yhe saver horizontally (less bump steer)

I use 64p pinions with 04 mod spurs with no problems. 48p or 06 mod will be noisier. would suggest switching to a spur gear that can hold 12 or more balls (eg xenon)... diff runs smoother for longer

did the topdeck mod too but have swaped it out for hopup deck that uses as roll damper instead of the friction plate damper... more consistent and easier to tune.

hths