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Old 05-28-2012, 11:04 AM
  #34621  
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Originally Posted by TCCustoms
what if i have Losi 8ight shocks...what would be a good place to start with them? i also have a custom mount for them since the caps were so huge they wouldnt clear the tower and waiting for the body post to come in off back order
Losi 8ight buggy shocks are nearly "DROP ON" for the scte or the 810 buggy. I don't bother with them on the scte as they are not needed, but the much heavier e-810 w/ 3s 5.5k lipo I did put them on and they perform very well. It takes about two seconds to install the 8ight shocks on it, put a small spacer (shock spacer works fine) behind the upper shock bushing and you are done.. everything else is a perfect fit. That said it depends on what weight you are as to a good setup, my 810 I run 40wt front w/ silvers, and 35wt rears w/ green. I'd say if I was going to use them on my scte I'd be looking at the red springs most likely.. but do keep in mind you really need the droop pads installed on the SCTE or the 810 when using the 8ight shocks, they are longer and you will need to set the droop to 89/101 or ball park. The stock geometry iMO is way better, though your idea was creative, again droop settings can control the extra extension.
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Old 05-28-2012, 11:23 AM
  #34622  
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Originally Posted by kahuna2793
Do you ever run at airland raceway? How's this setup for airland?
Not yet,but the track in baldwin park at Tonys Hobbies is very simular in size,and it was on rails right off the trailer lol

Originally Posted by darryl80
i have been hearing alot of good things about the castle mamba max pro sct edition combos. not sure what temps they run at.
Friday nite I ran my 2nd qual(tq run) with the 1410 3800kv and mmp motor temped at 120!!!!It was a cold nite tho bout 60 deg outside.on a warm day she will hit 135-140 tops and that is pinning it!!!I would rather run the Rx8 with the new 1410 that has the 5 mm shaft tho!!Cheers!!
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Old 05-28-2012, 11:48 AM
  #34623  
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Originally Posted by ScottKelly911
Lock it all the way down and use blue loc-tite. Some people even go as far as to use red loc-tite to make sure it doesn't EVER come loose.
Red threadlock and i super glued the saver together lol
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Old 05-28-2012, 12:01 PM
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Originally Posted by thegame7
Yeah hopefully they have black ones in stock! Their website said they did. I need my truck running ASAP
Yes, they do have them in stock as Amanda email me back very quickly saying that is what i ordered which i figured i did but id rather make sure as the anodized blue makes it look cheap and i dont have anything blue so i didnt want it anyways, lol

Originally Posted by 8ight-e
Losi 8ight buggy shocks are nearly "DROP ON" for the scte or the 810 buggy. I don't bother with them on the scte as they are not needed, but the much heavier e-810 w/ 3s 5.5k lipo I did put them on and they perform very well. It takes about two seconds to install the 8ight shocks on it, put a small spacer (shock spacer works fine) behind the upper shock bushing and you are done.. everything else is a perfect fit. That said it depends on what weight you are as to a good setup, my 810 I run 40wt front w/ silvers, and 35wt rears w/ green. I'd say if I was going to use them on my scte I'd be looking at the red springs most likely.. but do keep in mind you really need the droop pads installed on the SCTE or the 810 when using the 8ight shocks, they are longer and you will need to set the droop to 89/101 or ball park. The stock geometry iMO is way better, though your idea was creative, again droop settings can control the extra extension.
ok, sounds awesome...but what spacers do you recommend as i dont have anything other than stock and my original plan the shock caps were not even close to fitting as the top diameter was soo large that it hit on the bottom of the tower and i had these brackets anyways so i wasnt out anything and just had to drill out 2 holes for the stock body mounts then they come as the other 2 out of the 4 lined up. I dont have the 8ight shock standoffs...do you think those would help for clearance and maybe why these dont fit right like you say?
As for the springs...should i just buy the 8ight shock kit that has a bunch of different springs and pistons and all that jazz or just buy a few certain sets like the red you said and something else...Our track is homemade and has big jumps with the biggest 1 having a flat landing(not my choice for sure) as it is 2-55 gal drums laying on there sides and end to end to get 4' wide for track and then the 2nd set the same way but usually i slow roll the first to set up for the 2nd jump

Also, what do you mean droop pads...yer getting technical on me, lol???
Are those the little allen screw on the arms that hit the chassis? i have them in stock position as i have never messed with them if thats what your talking.
I had it like this on the 810 stock with the 8ight fuel tank which was 130cc rather than the 80 something that was stock but it did pretty well but again i dont race it so never really paid that close of attention
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Old 05-28-2012, 12:16 PM
  #34625  
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Originally Posted by TCCustoms
Yes, they do have them in stock as Amanda email me back very quickly saying that is what i ordered which i figured i did but id rather make sure as the anodized blue makes it look cheap and i dont have anything blue so i didnt want it anyways, lol



ok, sounds awesome...but what spacers do you recommend as i dont have anything other than stock and my original plan the shock caps were not even close to fitting as the top diameter was soo large that it hit on the bottom of the tower and i had these brackets anyways so i wasnt out anything and just had to drill out 2 holes for the stock body mounts then they come as the other 2 out of the 4 lined up.
As for the springs...should i just buy the 8ight shock kit that has a bunch of different springs and pistons and all that jazz or just buy a few certain sets like the red you said and something else...Our track is homemade and has big jumps with the biggest 1 having a flat landing(not my choice for sure) as it is 2-55 gal drums laying on there sides and end to end to get 4' wide for track and then the 2nd set the same way but usually i slow roll the first to set up for the 2nd jump

Also, what do you mean droop pads...yer getting technical on me, lol???
Are those the little allen screw on the arms that hit the chassis? i have them in stock position as i have never messed with them if thats what your talking.
I had it like this on the 810 stock with the 8ight fuel tank which was 130cc rather than the 80 something that was stock but it did pretty well but again i dont race it so never really paid that close of attention
Ya droop pads go under the grub on the chassis so the chassis doesn't wear. not really needed w/ the scte since you don't really use the droop setting. With the longer 8ight shocks you will need to, there are no stock holes so you will need to drill and tap for the 4/40 8ight droop pads. This is pretty painless, can buy drill/tap sets most anywhere.

I wouldn't buy the full 8ight spring set if I were you.. again depending on your weight silver front green rear maybe all you need.

The spacer.. basically a 2.75mm to 3mm spacer between the shock tower and stock bushing both front and rear is all you need to get clear of the shock towers.

The scte body mounts are super cheap, snag a set off ebay or the parts you need from a lhs.

Last edited by 8ight-e; 05-28-2012 at 04:33 PM.
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Old 05-28-2012, 01:19 PM
  #34626  
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Originally Posted by 8ight-e
Ya droop pads go under the grub on the chassis so the chassis doesn't wear. not really needed w/ the scte since you don't really use the droop setting. With the longer 8ight shocks you will need to, there are no stock holes so you will need to drill and tap for the 4/40 8ight droop pads. This is pretty painless, can buy drill/tap sets most anywhere.

I wouldn't buy the full 8ight set if I were you.. again depending on your weight silver front green rear maybe all you need.

The spacer.. basically a 2.75mm to 3mm spacer between the shock tower and stock bushing both front and rear is all you need to get clear of the shock towers.

The scte body mounts are super cheap, snag a set off ebay or the parts you need from a lhs.
ya, picked up the mounts on ebay for 5.60 on ebay with 2 shipping and my LHS says Horizon has them on backorder so i said forget it and did it ebay style, lol.

I paid the same for the 8ight shocks as i would have for a set of SCTE/810 shocks on ebay over this winter and thats the only set of shocks i have for the truck now as i sold the SCTE/810 shocks on my SL4SH roller but will have to check into this more but are you saying to buy the shock standoffs and mount them to the shock tower to get the 2.75/3mm clearance cuz i have the stock bushings and it wasnt enough to clear??
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Old 05-28-2012, 02:17 PM
  #34627  
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Originally Posted by darryl80
Rockthecatbox21,

this is the spur gear you are wanting then.

http://www.rc-monster.com/proddetail...10tspur&cat=40
Thanks
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Old 05-28-2012, 02:28 PM
  #34628  
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Originally Posted by Rockthecatbox21
Thanks
Just curious ,whats wrong with the stock losi spur gear?
I have never replaced a spur on my truck,going over a year now..Jus soo ya know....
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Old 05-28-2012, 02:36 PM
  #34629  
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Originally Posted by BmainStar
Just curious ,whats wrong with the stock losi spur gear?
I have never replaced a spur on my truck,going over a year now..Jus soo ya know....
Absolutely nothing. I actually JUST changed mine out after running it (wait for it).....Since I bought it new from the first batch. Yes...when they first came to market. And the only reason I changed it is I thought "maybe it's time" . It didn't NEED to be changed. It's now on my sons SCTE.

BTW I am also STILL on my original A-Arms, front and rear. I run twice a week every week and they are still going strong. I have this large bag of NIP parts that just stay in the bag. I love how tough this thing is.
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Old 05-28-2012, 02:38 PM
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Originally Posted by BmainStar
Just curious ,whats wrong with the stock losi spur gear?
Nothing just noticed a tiny bit of wear after a few months of having it. Quick question: what are the differences between mod 1 and mod .8 ? Can they work together? Thought it was weird since my stampede 4x4 has a .8 mod spur and a 32pitch pinion. Is the stock scte spur mod 1 or mod .8?
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Old 05-28-2012, 02:41 PM
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Originally Posted by timannnn6
Absolutely nothing. I actually JUST changed mine out after running it (wait for it).....Since I bought it new from the first batch. Yes...when they first came to market. And the only reason I changed it is I thought "maybe it's time" . It didn't NEED to be changed. It's now on my sons SCTE.

BTW I am also STILL on my original A-Arms, front and rear. I run twice a week every week and they are still going strong. I have this large bag of NIP parts that just stay in the bag. I love how tough this thing is.
I agree i just want the delrin so i wont have to replace it for a long long time. The stock a-arms are pretty bulletproof and i see no need to upgrade them anytime soon. Funny how rpm released a-arms for the associated sc10 4x4 and not the scte. One reason: IT'S TOUGH!!!!
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Old 05-28-2012, 02:43 PM
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Originally Posted by RC_Woody
Thank you all who responded, you confirmed my suspicions and I knew better...I KNEW BETTER, I was just having such a hard time getting the Castle's to go in some of the batteries. I thought maybe what I heard was an exaggeration and only extreme outside temp plus high gearing or binding may cause that kind of amp draw.

I just replaced all my bearings the day before, geared to 15t pinion with a RX8 and Tekin pro 4 4000kv, outside temp was 68 degrees, so nothing too extreme and it was still doing it.

Thanks again guys,
Woody
Woody,
On the castle bullets you have to take a dremel with a round sanding drum and take a little material off (just go 'round and 'round till it fits in your batteries). I actually just did that on mine and now they fit perfect. I now have to spread the prongs just a little to make them tight (which is how they should be). Also note that the castle brand or tekin brand bullets are a true solid bullet (look at the prongs), and not the prong type bullet that's hollow in the middle (like the protek's). The "solid" type bullets should flow more amps and run cooler. I just went through this issue with the protek bullets. They were running much warmer then when I used to run the castle's. I switched back to the castle's and everything is much cooler now.

Hope that helps you out.
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Old 05-28-2012, 02:52 PM
  #34633  
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Originally Posted by Rockthecatbox21
I agree i just want the delrin so i wont have to replace it for a long long time. The stock a-arms are pretty bulletproof and i see no need to upgrade them anytime soon. Funny how rpm released a-arms for the associated sc10 4x4 and not the scte. One reason: IT'S TOUGH!!!!
HAHA, Nope, they made em...almost bought when i bought the bumper since i ran my 810(now a SCTE) outdoors and never indoors and the lower part of the rear control arms show wear from the debris but still not worth replacing so i never did it
MY BAD
Losi SCTE front and rear control arms
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Old 05-28-2012, 02:53 PM
  #34634  
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Originally Posted by Rockthecatbox21
I agree i just want the delrin so i wont have to replace it for a long long time. The stock a-arms are pretty bulletproof and i see no need to upgrade them anytime soon. Funny how rpm released a-arms for the associated sc10 4x4 and not the scte. One reason: IT'S TOUGH!!!!
http://www.rpmrcproducts.com/product...2.htm#SCTEarms

They do make them
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Old 05-28-2012, 02:54 PM
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haha, we both thinking the same thing Blitz
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