Team Corally RDX Touring Car
#1816
Originally posted by Trinity2
Hey there. Any good set-up for rubber tires? For asphalt
Hey there. Any good set-up for rubber tires? For asphalt
#1817
Originally posted by Sushi Boy
So Jeff,
What did you end up running at the recent state race?
-Korey
So Jeff,
What did you end up running at the recent state race?
-Korey
FRONT:
60wt, 1.3mm piston, -1 camber, 4 deg caster, standard roll blocks, 17lb spring, 3rd hole out on arm, 3rd hole in on tower, 2nd hole top row camber link, 5mm ride height, Spool, 2mm uptravel
REAR:
40wt, 1.3mm pistons, -1 camber, standard roll blocks, 14.5lb springs, shock extentions on arm, 3rd hole on tower, 2nd hole bottom row camber link, 2 deg toe in, middle hole on upright, 5mm ride height, 2mm uptravel
#1818
Tech Apprentice
Jeff;
or anyone;
How do you measure uptravel (droop?).
Jim D.
or anyone;
How do you measure uptravel (droop?).
Jim D.
#1819
Tech Lord
iTrader: (32)
I seem to have trouble with my wheel hexes binding if they're pushed in too far. It's easy enough to keep a little bit of play in there so they don't bind, but once I tighten the wheels to the point where they won't wobble, it pushes the hexes in. It's possible to get them all to a point where they don't bind, but it's damn near voodoo, and the balance is easily upset during a wreck, and sometimes under normal running conditions.
Is there some trick to keeping this from happening?
Is there some trick to keeping this from happening?
#1820
Tech Elite
iTrader: (4)
Originally posted by syndr0me
I seem to have trouble with my wheel hexes binding if they're pushed in too far. It's easy enough to keep a little bit of play in there so they don't bind, but once I tighten the wheels to the point where they won't wobble, it pushes the hexes in. It's possible to get them all to a point where they don't bind, but it's damn near voodoo, and the balance is easily upset during a wreck, and sometimes under normal running conditions.
Is there some trick to keeping this from happening?
I seem to have trouble with my wheel hexes binding if they're pushed in too far. It's easy enough to keep a little bit of play in there so they don't bind, but once I tighten the wheels to the point where they won't wobble, it pushes the hexes in. It's possible to get them all to a point where they don't bind, but it's damn near voodoo, and the balance is easily upset during a wreck, and sometimes under normal running conditions.
Is there some trick to keeping this from happening?
Dom
#1821
Originally posted by ukeejim
Jeff;
or anyone;
How do you measure uptravel (droop?).
Jim D.
Jeff;
or anyone;
How do you measure uptravel (droop?).
Jim D.
I back the droop screws off of the chassis
Set ride height
Then lift up on the shock tower until the tires just start to unload
Slide the ride height gauge under the chassis and screw the droop screws down until you get 1mm, 1.5mm or even 2mm up travel above your ride height
Ex. if you set ride height at 5mm and you want 1mm of uptravel when you lift up and slide the gauge under you should read 6mm
Hope this helps
#1825
I've noticed most setups have a thicker shock weight up and stiffer springs up front. What does this accomplish? I am currently running 40wt all the way around with stiffer springs up front. I am assuming it has to do with weight transfer and the reaction of the car as it enters the turns. Am I missing something here?
#1826
Tech Champion
iTrader: (13)
Originally posted by imprsme
The way I have been doing it is...
I back the droop screws off of the chassis
Set ride height
Then lift up on the shock tower until the tires just start to unload
Slide the ride height gauge under the chassis and screw the droop screws down until you get 1mm, 1.5mm or even 2mm up travel above your ride height
Ex. if you set ride height at 5mm and you want 1mm of uptravel when you lift up and slide the gauge under you should read 6mm
Hope this helps
The way I have been doing it is...
I back the droop screws off of the chassis
Set ride height
Then lift up on the shock tower until the tires just start to unload
Slide the ride height gauge under the chassis and screw the droop screws down until you get 1mm, 1.5mm or even 2mm up travel above your ride height
Ex. if you set ride height at 5mm and you want 1mm of uptravel when you lift up and slide the gauge under you should read 6mm
Hope this helps
-Korey
#1827
Tech Champion
iTrader: (13)
Originally posted by rcgen
I've noticed most setups have a thicker shock weight up and stiffer springs up front. What does this accomplish? I am currently running 40wt all the way around with stiffer springs up front. I am assuming it has to do with weight transfer and the reaction of the car as it enters the turns. Am I missing something here?
I've noticed most setups have a thicker shock weight up and stiffer springs up front. What does this accomplish? I am currently running 40wt all the way around with stiffer springs up front. I am assuming it has to do with weight transfer and the reaction of the car as it enters the turns. Am I missing something here?
-Korey
#1828
Originally posted by Sushi Boy
Thats what I was thinking. I did try a setup with the same oil and spring all around, but I had problems with the front end wanting to dump over. My guess is because the RDX has the batteries pretty far forward and can make the front end a bit heavy. In order to prevent the front end from dumping over we generally run a slightly heavier setup in the front. Right now on carpet with rubber tires I'm running 22lb springs up front and 17lb in the rear with a 50/30 oil setup. 1.3mm pistons.
-Korey
Thats what I was thinking. I did try a setup with the same oil and spring all around, but I had problems with the front end wanting to dump over. My guess is because the RDX has the batteries pretty far forward and can make the front end a bit heavy. In order to prevent the front end from dumping over we generally run a slightly heavier setup in the front. Right now on carpet with rubber tires I'm running 22lb springs up front and 17lb in the rear with a 50/30 oil setup. 1.3mm pistons.
-Korey