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Old 04-25-2005, 12:56 PM   #1816
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Quote:
Originally posted by Trinity2
Hey there. Any good set-up for rubber tires? For asphalt
Goto www.Corallyusa.com Click on cars then RDX set-ups the South Carolina set up is a GOOD ONE!
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Old 04-26-2005, 10:28 AM   #1817
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Quote:
Originally posted by Sushi Boy
So Jeff,

What did you end up running at the recent state race?

-Korey
BODY: Mazda 6

FRONT:

60wt, 1.3mm piston, -1 camber, 4 deg caster, standard roll blocks, 17lb spring, 3rd hole out on arm, 3rd hole in on tower, 2nd hole top row camber link, 5mm ride height, Spool, 2mm uptravel

REAR:

40wt, 1.3mm pistons, -1 camber, standard roll blocks, 14.5lb springs, shock extentions on arm, 3rd hole on tower, 2nd hole bottom row camber link, 2 deg toe in, middle hole on upright, 5mm ride height, 2mm uptravel
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Old 04-26-2005, 12:59 PM   #1818
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Jeff;
or anyone;
How do you measure uptravel (droop?).
Jim D.
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Old 04-26-2005, 01:10 PM   #1819
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I seem to have trouble with my wheel hexes binding if they're pushed in too far. It's easy enough to keep a little bit of play in there so they don't bind, but once I tighten the wheels to the point where they won't wobble, it pushes the hexes in. It's possible to get them all to a point where they don't bind, but it's damn near voodoo, and the balance is easily upset during a wreck, and sometimes under normal running conditions.

Is there some trick to keeping this from happening?
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Old 04-26-2005, 01:16 PM   #1820
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Quote:
Originally posted by syndr0me
I seem to have trouble with my wheel hexes binding if they're pushed in too far. It's easy enough to keep a little bit of play in there so they don't bind, but once I tighten the wheels to the point where they won't wobble, it pushes the hexes in. It's possible to get them all to a point where they don't bind, but it's damn near voodoo, and the balance is easily upset during a wreck, and sometimes under normal running conditions.

Is there some trick to keeping this from happening?
I put a .2mm shim between the bearing and the hex pin, so the hex have no chance of rubbing on anything.

Dom
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Old 04-26-2005, 01:45 PM   #1821
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Quote:
Originally posted by ukeejim
Jeff;
or anyone;
How do you measure uptravel (droop?).
Jim D.
The way I have been doing it is...

I back the droop screws off of the chassis
Set ride height
Then lift up on the shock tower until the tires just start to unload
Slide the ride height gauge under the chassis and screw the droop screws down until you get 1mm, 1.5mm or even 2mm up travel above your ride height


Ex. if you set ride height at 5mm and you want 1mm of uptravel when you lift up and slide the gauge under you should read 6mm

Hope this helps
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Old 04-26-2005, 02:34 PM   #1822
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Quote:
Originally posted by litespeed-dom
I put a .2mm shim between the bearing and the hex pin, so the hex have no chance of rubbing on anything.

Dom
Syn--

I did this too; I have some shims you can use for tomorrow night!!
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Old 04-26-2005, 03:08 PM   #1823
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I guess that means you're back to running carpet tomorrow then? Sounds good, I'll take you up on the offer for the shims, thanks.

One of these days, I'm going to make a "Life with Corally" post about all the quirks I've learned about so far.
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Old 04-26-2005, 03:13 PM   #1824
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This car is awesome, but does have its quirky stuff.... especially the 4/40-like ball stud with the metric thread!

Dom
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Old 04-26-2005, 03:53 PM   #1825
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I've noticed most setups have a thicker shock weight up and stiffer springs up front. What does this accomplish? I am currently running 40wt all the way around with stiffer springs up front. I am assuming it has to do with weight transfer and the reaction of the car as it enters the turns. Am I missing something here?
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Old 04-26-2005, 04:00 PM   #1826
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Quote:
Originally posted by imprsme
The way I have been doing it is...

I back the droop screws off of the chassis
Set ride height
Then lift up on the shock tower until the tires just start to unload
Slide the ride height gauge under the chassis and screw the droop screws down until you get 1mm, 1.5mm or even 2mm up travel above your ride height


Ex. if you set ride height at 5mm and you want 1mm of uptravel when you lift up and slide the gauge under you should read 6mm

Hope this helps
Yup, thats the way I do it. If your really picky abotu droop David Jun had a real cool way of measuring droop in the 415 thread. He measure it from the top of the axle to the setup board with some calipers, and it's uber accurate. You can fine tune to make up for the difference between tire diameter in rubber tires and stuff. I usually do this to make sure the downstops are the same on both sides, and then use the way imprsme descirbed to get the actual droop.

-Korey
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Old 04-26-2005, 04:05 PM   #1827
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Quote:
Originally posted by rcgen
I've noticed most setups have a thicker shock weight up and stiffer springs up front. What does this accomplish? I am currently running 40wt all the way around with stiffer springs up front. I am assuming it has to do with weight transfer and the reaction of the car as it enters the turns. Am I missing something here?
Thats what I was thinking. I did try a setup with the same oil and spring all around, but I had problems with the front end wanting to dump over. My guess is because the RDX has the batteries pretty far forward and can make the front end a bit heavy. In order to prevent the front end from dumping over we generally run a slightly heavier setup in the front. Right now on carpet with rubber tires I'm running 22lb springs up front and 17lb in the rear with a 50/30 oil setup. 1.3mm pistons.

-Korey
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Old 04-26-2005, 04:12 PM   #1828
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Quote:
Originally posted by Sushi Boy
Thats what I was thinking. I did try a setup with the same oil and spring all around, but I had problems with the front end wanting to dump over. My guess is because the RDX has the batteries pretty far forward and can make the front end a bit heavy. In order to prevent the front end from dumping over we generally run a slightly heavier setup in the front. Right now on carpet with rubber tires I'm running 22lb springs up front and 17lb in the rear with a 50/30 oil setup. 1.3mm pistons.

-Korey
I also think that the rear shock extensions makes the rear suspension harder even with softer oil/spring in the back. I will be trying next race without them and see the difference.
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Old 04-26-2005, 04:14 PM   #1829
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Quote:
Originally posted by danjoy25
I also think that the rear shock extensions makes the rear suspension harder even with softer oil/spring in the back.
It is true, the further you move your shock out on the arm, the more leverage it requires to compress that shock.

Dom
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Old 04-26-2005, 05:02 PM   #1830
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I always run the extensions. I did try it without and didn't like it. To me it made the car feel inconsistant.

-Korey
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