thecman26

iTrader: (112)

Thats what I have and it works great! 1 downside though, in a wicked wreck I did break a rack... But it was a crazy wreck! I expected to break something!

XXXDad

iTrader: (198)

My question> are the front Hex you use just the 22T Alu. Hex or some other. Yes I would like to space the Tire just a mm to have more clearance!?

spiti58

iTrader: (1)

Use the aluminum Standard rear hexes from the 22 buggy on the front of the truck.

thecman26

iTrader: (112)

I use the aluminum clamping hexes for the SCTE, bolts right up!

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...heel-Hex-Set-2

Casper

iTrader: (34)

Guys they make them especially for the 22T

http://www.tlracing.com/Products/Def...ProdID=TLR2941

(the SCTE ones do work as well but you will want to get some 5mm shims and shim out the hex about .5mm which is not necessary with the 22T hexes)

XXXDad

iTrader: (198)

This the same or better??/ >>> http://www.horizonhobby.com/products...um-22t-TLR2941
I see Casper's post ^^^^^ The Friendly Ghost Thanks buddy!!

Ant73

iTrader: (6)

I did this too and went from constantly popping off (sorry, I have small children and couldn't resist) to not one since.

austinspeer810

iTrader: (11)

I am sure everyone has broken a few parts here and there and that is what makes this hobby enjoyable as well as costly. I have a losi 22t and I love the truck to death, but I have broken a good deal of parts as well. Losi has a good way of maximizing their profit in my opinion. Lets say you break a spindle and you want to buy just ONE spindle. You have to buy both the left and right one in a package. You cannot just buy one spindle. I think it is very frustrating but also profitable on their end.

I have upgraded the steering slider to aluminum because I broke about 2-3 of them and please do not ask me how. Everyone asks me that and I cant give them an answer besides I just break it.

I know that aluminum parts are costly but when you break the same part over and over again, the aluminum part would be cheaper in the end. So all I want to know is what parts have you broken and replaced with aluminum? I want to keep it TLR only so I have all authentic team losi racing parts because I am OCD like that.

AndrewTom

iTrader: (3)

I think the Tini king pin is a must for any 22 platform vehicle.
the Aluminum camber blocks are nice, the front needs to be alumnium IMO.
aluminum hexes if you feel the need. Don't worry, plenty of OCD here.

Casper

iTrader: (34)

Honestly the parts breakage on the 22 series is much lower then most all other cars. As for parts packaging EVERYONE puts left and right in a bag. Tha is just how it is. Not a money maker just how things are done. Don't ever buy a Kyosho. Those parts trees for a single part would put you in a padded room if you are worried about L and R parts in the same bag.

Losi offers alum in most all the parts you would be most likely to break other then larger items like arms and towers. What you end up breaking is kind of personal thing. Yes I think we have all pretty much broken a slidder at some point and time if you drive enough. It is kind of the part that gives for not having a servo saver. Is it real common or a difficult or expensive part to break. Not really.

For upgrades. I recommend the alum hexes just for the fact as they always stay on when you remove the wheels. The fronts also help with the ball cup popping. I like Alum servo posts as I feel they help support the front end better and more consistant steering. I like the alum front bulkhead and camber blocks for extra weight up front. Rear camber block for the same reason. Alum battery tray for additional adjustability (especially with short packs). Does the car work and is it durable without these things absolutely. Do they help, I think so otherwise I would not use them.

One other thing the one piece king pins for the caster/spindle joint do help strengthen those parts. I also use this same pin for the arm to caster block joint. I put a 2mm spacer on either side of the arm to take up the extra space. Makes all that area bullet proof without the expense of alum.

I will be posting all of this up at www.casper-rc.com shortly with some pictures. Getting all the pages setup as time permits this week so check out the new web site for other tips and tricks as well as all my std setups!

robertsvern

i've never seen any brand of rc car that sold individual right or left side spindles, they always come in pairs. same thing with any suspension piece. it's not a TLR thing, it's like that with any brand.
plastic replacement parts are cheap, $5-10, and if you can't afford to fix it after you crash it either you need a different hobby or stop crashing so much.
blaming the car isn't right. i've had my 22 buggy for over 2 years now, and my 22T for over a year, and during that time and racing almost every weekend I've broken one part. a steering rack. just one. anybody that's breaking as often as it sounds you are needs to slow down and start aiming to miss things instead of aiming to hit them.
adding aluminum replacement parts is good if you're not breaking a lot of parts, but adding them as a bandaid for your bad driving is never the answer as it always leads to breaking something else in in opinion.

XXXDad

iTrader: (198)

There is a Member who makes Plastic side dams or underbelly that mount to the side and keep out debris and help airflow .... Help me find him please.
He sells them...

XXXDad

iTrader: (198)

Found Him> Here is the Link to the Sale >> http://www.rctech.net/forum/r-c-item...guard-ext.html

austinspeer810

iTrader: (11)

I dont think I was blaming the car but if it sounded like I was then I apologize. The vehicle is awesome in my opinion but one thing that I have a hard time with is putting the front end back on when I remove it. Not losis fault I dont think but I think I do it in a way that others may not. Anyways, I think the truck is durable but I just need to hone in on my driving skills. When I break parts, usually it is at the same part of the track.

austinspeer810

iTrader: (11)

And just to let everyone know...since I upgraded to the aluminum steering slider and titanium turnbuckles with the threaded king pin, I did not break anything last race day. haha. But when I do break things they break because for one my driving skills are not as good as they were a few years ago but secondly I will hit something hard. For example; at my local track there are plenty of jumps but then there are poles made out of steel and a barrier. I cracked the bulkhead but it is not completely broken because when someone bumped into me before the jump I went off the jump on the right side and hit the steel pole in mid air. Surprised I didnt break anything else besides the bulkhead. I broke the rear spindle piece too becuase when I took a jump wide I didnt have enough power to clear the barrier completely and I clipped the barrier and broke the spindle. Both crashes were nothing to complain about and were very cheap (maybe 6 dollars). I dont care how much I pay to fix parts because I love the hobby but when I break the same piece a few times and the alumimum part is available, I will get that part. So far the aluminum part that I purchased (steering slider) has done me very well!!!