Team Magic G4
10-01-2006, 10:53 PM
#2221
Tech Master
Originally Posted by Piyo Piyo
Your tire is ok. Use downforce wing at rear of the bodies as I told you before or change the front springs to one level harder (green color).
Also check your car settings (droop, toe and chamber).
Also check your car settings (droop, toe and chamber).
i also wanna hear what others might say..... im learning
10-02-2006, 01:06 AM
#2222
I dont know your setups or tracks, but we always tend to find that if we lose rear traction then its because the rear is collapsing, so going softer on spring/roll bar doesnt help over here...
The rear roll bar is quite soft even in its stiffest setting, I would always run it at vertical, and this should give you more rear end out of the corner, as well as a car that turns a little sharper.
The top rear link position is also very important, and really depends on the track, I would just try each position, see which gives the most rear, then go from there.
The car also reacts well to caster changes, so if you want a little less mid/exit steering, then take some caster angle off......
Its really a case of trying things and seeing what works for yourself, and theres no substitute for practise........
Good Luck.
The rear roll bar is quite soft even in its stiffest setting, I would always run it at vertical, and this should give you more rear end out of the corner, as well as a car that turns a little sharper.
The top rear link position is also very important, and really depends on the track, I would just try each position, see which gives the most rear, then go from there.
The car also reacts well to caster changes, so if you want a little less mid/exit steering, then take some caster angle off......
Its really a case of trying things and seeing what works for yourself, and theres no substitute for practise........
Good Luck.
10-02-2006, 01:34 AM
#2223
Tech Master
Originally Posted by muppet racing
I dont know your setups or tracks, but we always tend to find that if we lose rear traction then its because the rear is collapsing, so going softer on spring/roll bar doesnt help over here...
The rear roll bar is quite soft even in its stiffest setting, I would always run it at vertical, and this should give you more rear end out of the corner, as well as a car that turns a little sharper.
The top rear link position is also very important, and really depends on the track, I would just try each position, see which gives the most rear, then go from there.
The car also reacts well to caster changes, so if you want a little less mid/exit steering, then take some caster angle off......
Its really a case of trying things and seeing what works for yourself, and theres no substitute for practise........
Good Luck.
The rear roll bar is quite soft even in its stiffest setting, I would always run it at vertical, and this should give you more rear end out of the corner, as well as a car that turns a little sharper.
The top rear link position is also very important, and really depends on the track, I would just try each position, see which gives the most rear, then go from there.
The car also reacts well to caster changes, so if you want a little less mid/exit steering, then take some caster angle off......
Its really a case of trying things and seeing what works for yourself, and theres no substitute for practise........
Good Luck.
btw i posted my setup one page back. and im still trying to find pics of my track so u guys got idea what kind of track i run.
10-02-2006, 01:43 AM
#2224
Tech Master
heres my local track. running clockwise.
10-02-2006, 02:45 AM
#2225
Originally Posted by muppet racing
I dont know your setups or tracks, but we always tend to find that if we lose rear traction then its because the rear is collapsing, so going softer on spring/roll bar doesnt help over here...
The rear roll bar is quite soft even in its stiffest setting, I would always run it at vertical, and this should give you more rear end out of the corner, as well as a car that turns a little sharper.
The top rear link position is also very important, and really depends on the track, I would just try each position, see which gives the most rear, then go from there.
The car also reacts well to caster changes, so if you want a little less mid/exit steering, then take some caster angle off......
Its really a case of trying things and seeing what works for yourself, and theres no substitute for practise........
Good Luck.
The rear roll bar is quite soft even in its stiffest setting, I would always run it at vertical, and this should give you more rear end out of the corner, as well as a car that turns a little sharper.
The top rear link position is also very important, and really depends on the track, I would just try each position, see which gives the most rear, then go from there.
The car also reacts well to caster changes, so if you want a little less mid/exit steering, then take some caster angle off......
Its really a case of trying things and seeing what works for yourself, and theres no substitute for practise........
Good Luck.
The track is dusty and bumpy...
I look forward to hearing from you soon.
BB
10-02-2006, 09:06 AM
#2226
Hi BB,
3 rear & 0 front sound reasonable numbers for your droop, but this depends on your tire size & ride height too !!
if your track is very bumpy then you want a reasonable amount of droop(4-5mm over ride height on rear and 3 - 4 mm over ride height on the front), and i guess you have plenty of ride height to cover the bumps ?
The top rear link is worth trying if you havent done this.....
Its really difficult to advise without seeing what the car is doing, you will just have to try stuff as long as the basics are correct.
Good Luck.
3 rear & 0 front sound reasonable numbers for your droop, but this depends on your tire size & ride height too !!
if your track is very bumpy then you want a reasonable amount of droop(4-5mm over ride height on rear and 3 - 4 mm over ride height on the front), and i guess you have plenty of ride height to cover the bumps ?
The top rear link is worth trying if you havent done this.....
Its really difficult to advise without seeing what the car is doing, you will just have to try stuff as long as the basics are correct.
Good Luck.
10-02-2006, 11:22 AM
#2227
Originally Posted by muppet racing
Hi BB,
3 rear & 0 front sound reasonable numbers for your droop, but this depends on your tire size & ride height too !!
if your track is very bumpy then you want a reasonable amount of droop(4-5mm over ride height on rear and 3 - 4 mm over ride height on the front), and i guess you have plenty of ride height to cover the bumps ?.............
Good Luck.
3 rear & 0 front sound reasonable numbers for your droop, but this depends on your tire size & ride height too !!
if your track is very bumpy then you want a reasonable amount of droop(4-5mm over ride height on rear and 3 - 4 mm over ride height on the front), and i guess you have plenty of ride height to cover the bumps ?.............
Good Luck.
Don't quite understand your suggestion. What do you mean by xx mm over ride height??
Lets say I have 5mm ride height up front and 6mm at rear with 62mm tires at both ends (Rubber)...also a bumpy and dusty track. What would you suggest the droops to be over hudy blocks (0) ??
AFM
10-02-2006, 03:35 PM
#2228
what Darren is suggesting in xx over ride hieght, is another way to adjust your droop. foams wear and as the tires wear the effect on ride hieght changes. so basically once you have the ride hieght you want (with tires fitted to car) if you raise the chassis at either end of the car, the measurement increases. the difference of the value from the ride hieght is your droop. this is done with ride hieght guage and the hudy blocks are not used. thanks for all your input Darren, by the way the pic ( the muppets) , is this what Zoom managed to get for you ? i like it 
10-02-2006, 06:24 PM
#2229
Another win on the G4S tally by Jose Luis Hidaglo.
He scored the fastest lap of the A main and the win at the end of the 4th round of the Mexican 200mm Nationals. The race took place at the Pista La Rioja in Torreon, Coahuila, Mexico.
Changing weather made finding the right setting extremely tricky! Low grip by mid day under a burning sun. Increasing traction as clouds partially covered the sky by the start of the A main. Changing fuel comsuption as a result of different atmospheric conditions, etc.
The result would not come without drama, as he slipped to P1 until 2 min. left in the clock after a mistake by his competitor. He had to go to pits twice more than most of the grid because of his thirsty JP FX3 (great engine!). He was the fastest driver on the track but would suffer a bit with fuel comsumption that kept him second for most of the time, as well as fighting for position with the 3rd placed driver!
This is the second victory for the G4S in the Mexican series after only its third race in the calendar (four races down out of five already).
Only the fifth race of the series is left now. Mexico City will host the closing of the championship with only two drivers now with chances of winning it all, one of them being Jose Luis Hidalgo with his G4S!!
Three G4S in the A-Main (I was dominating the B Main myself with another G4S until my glow plug died by mid race even with a slightly rich setting), 4 serpents, 2 mugens and 1 Kyosho.
Congratulations to Jose Luis, and Cesar Ayala the Team Magic distributor for Mexico and our sponsor!!
He scored the fastest lap of the A main and the win at the end of the 4th round of the Mexican 200mm Nationals. The race took place at the Pista La Rioja in Torreon, Coahuila, Mexico.
Changing weather made finding the right setting extremely tricky! Low grip by mid day under a burning sun. Increasing traction as clouds partially covered the sky by the start of the A main. Changing fuel comsuption as a result of different atmospheric conditions, etc.
The result would not come without drama, as he slipped to P1 until 2 min. left in the clock after a mistake by his competitor. He had to go to pits twice more than most of the grid because of his thirsty JP FX3 (great engine!). He was the fastest driver on the track but would suffer a bit with fuel comsumption that kept him second for most of the time, as well as fighting for position with the 3rd placed driver!
This is the second victory for the G4S in the Mexican series after only its third race in the calendar (four races down out of five already).
Only the fifth race of the series is left now. Mexico City will host the closing of the championship with only two drivers now with chances of winning it all, one of them being Jose Luis Hidalgo with his G4S!!
Three G4S in the A-Main (I was dominating the B Main myself with another G4S until my glow plug died by mid race even with a slightly rich setting), 4 serpents, 2 mugens and 1 Kyosho.
Congratulations to Jose Luis, and Cesar Ayala the Team Magic distributor for Mexico and our sponsor!!
10-02-2006, 07:19 PM
#2230
Originally Posted by muppet racing
Hi BB,
3 rear & 0 front sound reasonable numbers for your droop, but this depends on your tire size & ride height too !!
if your track is very bumpy then you want a reasonable amount of droop(4-5mm over ride height on rear and 3 - 4 mm over ride height on the front), and i guess you have plenty of ride height to cover the bumps ?
The top rear link is worth trying if you havent done this.....
Its really difficult to advise without seeing what the car is doing, you will just have to try stuff as long as the basics are correct.
Good Luck.
3 rear & 0 front sound reasonable numbers for your droop, but this depends on your tire size & ride height too !!
if your track is very bumpy then you want a reasonable amount of droop(4-5mm over ride height on rear and 3 - 4 mm over ride height on the front), and i guess you have plenty of ride height to cover the bumps ?
The top rear link is worth trying if you havent done this.....
Its really difficult to advise without seeing what the car is doing, you will just have to try stuff as long as the basics are correct.
Good Luck.
BB
10-02-2006, 07:24 PM
#2231
I should probably post this question in the engine forum, but I don't find a Picco thread, and you guys are quick to assist with good info. What would be a good goal for run-time for a stock G4S w/Picco 3R, and Picco/Ofna pipe?
Also I'm considering the new ED transmission system. The logic behind it makes sense to me. I run on parking lot track so it seems that the lower gearing, less rotating mass would be all positives. Anything I should be aware of?
thanks
Gary
Also I'm considering the new ED transmission system. The logic behind it makes sense to me. I run on parking lot track so it seems that the lower gearing, less rotating mass would be all positives. Anything I should be aware of?
thanks
Gary
10-02-2006, 07:28 PM
#2232
Quick Question
I really want to buy a new racer for next year's season and I am stuck between the G4S and MTX4
I just have a few questions about the G4S, has the steering servo problem been fixed on the G4S? where the servo horn rubbed on the back of the arm in the front.
and has there been any upgrades to the type of plastic? like is it anymore durable?
also has the shock issue been completely solved? and does the kit still use phillip head screws?
Also I have some MTX4 parts support at local hobby shops around here where as I have no G4S parts support so the parts would have to be ordered and with shipping end up being a bit more money.
Then again the G4S has upgrades the mtx-4 doesnt have, like aluminum wheel hexes, the UFO clutch, dual sway bars or something like that, aluminum pulleys.
so I am honestly stuck, the G4S would be more expensive to maintain and if I busted at the track and had no parts support there I would be screwed, I would have to bring all back up parts, like belts, spurs, and a-arms with me so that means buying more before the race.
but from reading these posts the g4s seems to be a faster car.
so I know this is a G4s thread and I can't expect a unbais answer, but can someone point me in the right direction?
I just have a few questions about the G4S, has the steering servo problem been fixed on the G4S? where the servo horn rubbed on the back of the arm in the front.
and has there been any upgrades to the type of plastic? like is it anymore durable?
also has the shock issue been completely solved? and does the kit still use phillip head screws?
Also I have some MTX4 parts support at local hobby shops around here where as I have no G4S parts support so the parts would have to be ordered and with shipping end up being a bit more money.
Then again the G4S has upgrades the mtx-4 doesnt have, like aluminum wheel hexes, the UFO clutch, dual sway bars or something like that, aluminum pulleys.
so I am honestly stuck, the G4S would be more expensive to maintain and if I busted at the track and had no parts support there I would be screwed, I would have to bring all back up parts, like belts, spurs, and a-arms with me so that means buying more before the race.
but from reading these posts the g4s seems to be a faster car.
so I know this is a G4s thread and I can't expect a unbais answer, but can someone point me in the right direction?
Last edited by rcrevolution; 10-02-2006 at 07:42 PM.
10-02-2006, 08:59 PM
#2233
Originally Posted by rcrevolution
I really want to buy a new racer for next year's season and I am stuck between the G4S and MTX4
I just have a few questions about the G4S, has the steering servo problem been fixed on the G4S? where the servo horn rubbed on the back of the arm in the front.
and has there been any upgrades to the type of plastic? like is it anymore durable?
also has the shock issue been completely solved? and does the kit still use phillip head screws?
Also I have some MTX4 parts support at local hobby shops around here where as I have no G4S parts support so the parts would have to be ordered and with shipping end up being a bit more money.
Then again the G4S has upgrades the mtx-4 doesnt have, like aluminum wheel hexes, the UFO clutch, dual sway bars or something like that, aluminum pulleys.
so I am honestly stuck, the G4S would be more expensive to maintain and if I busted at the track and had no parts support there I would be screwed, I would have to bring all back up parts, like belts, spurs, and a-arms with me so that means buying more before the race.
but from reading these posts the g4s seems to be a faster car.
so I know this is a G4s thread and I can't expect a unbais answer, but can someone point me in the right direction?
I just have a few questions about the G4S, has the steering servo problem been fixed on the G4S? where the servo horn rubbed on the back of the arm in the front.
and has there been any upgrades to the type of plastic? like is it anymore durable?
also has the shock issue been completely solved? and does the kit still use phillip head screws?
Also I have some MTX4 parts support at local hobby shops around here where as I have no G4S parts support so the parts would have to be ordered and with shipping end up being a bit more money.
Then again the G4S has upgrades the mtx-4 doesnt have, like aluminum wheel hexes, the UFO clutch, dual sway bars or something like that, aluminum pulleys.
so I am honestly stuck, the G4S would be more expensive to maintain and if I busted at the track and had no parts support there I would be screwed, I would have to bring all back up parts, like belts, spurs, and a-arms with me so that means buying more before the race.
but from reading these posts the g4s seems to be a faster car.
so I know this is a G4s thread and I can't expect a unbais answer, but can someone point me in the right direction?
10-02-2006, 09:23 PM
#2234
Originally Posted by rcrevolution
I really want to buy a new racer for next year's season and I am stuck between the G4S and MTX4
I just have a few questions about the G4S, has the steering servo problem been fixed on the G4S? where the servo horn rubbed on the back of the arm in the front.
and has there been any upgrades to the type of plastic? like is it anymore durable?
also has the shock issue been completely solved? and does the kit still use phillip head screws?
Also I have some MTX4 parts support at local hobby shops around here where as I have no G4S parts support so the parts would have to be ordered and with shipping end up being a bit more money.
Then again the G4S has upgrades the mtx-4 doesnt have, like aluminum wheel hexes, the UFO clutch, dual sway bars or something like that, aluminum pulleys.
so I am honestly stuck, the G4S would be more expensive to maintain and if I busted at the track and had no parts support there I would be screwed, I would have to bring all back up parts, like belts, spurs, and a-arms with me so that means buying more before the race.
but from reading these posts the g4s seems to be a faster car.
so I know this is a G4s thread and I can't expect a unbais answer, but can someone point me in the right direction?
I just have a few questions about the G4S, has the steering servo problem been fixed on the G4S? where the servo horn rubbed on the back of the arm in the front.
and has there been any upgrades to the type of plastic? like is it anymore durable?
also has the shock issue been completely solved? and does the kit still use phillip head screws?
Also I have some MTX4 parts support at local hobby shops around here where as I have no G4S parts support so the parts would have to be ordered and with shipping end up being a bit more money.
Then again the G4S has upgrades the mtx-4 doesnt have, like aluminum wheel hexes, the UFO clutch, dual sway bars or something like that, aluminum pulleys.
so I am honestly stuck, the G4S would be more expensive to maintain and if I busted at the track and had no parts support there I would be screwed, I would have to bring all back up parts, like belts, spurs, and a-arms with me so that means buying more before the race.
but from reading these posts the g4s seems to be a faster car.
so I know this is a G4s thread and I can't expect a unbais answer, but can someone point me in the right direction?
G4S is a taugh car, it take abuses. which is nice for me. in fact I spend a lot less on part on G4S then my privious 710.
because of its durability, maintain teh car isn't pricey. however if you plan to upgrade, they are just priced too high for everage joe (car itself definately worth every penny, just the upgrades.....)
seriously the kit is cheaper then Mugen. most of the part on G4S is just indestructable. so it is up to you to deside if you want G4S or MTX 4.
PS: if there is any TM personal out there, please bring out some econo version of ED system and the quick shot front end (eg use plastic or nylon parts on both upgrade), the KF one is just too high priced for everage joe
10-02-2006, 10:35 PM
#2235
The K Factory parts can be looked at as a bit "pricey" to some. However, everything they manufacture is of the best and strongest materials. They also do some very exacting cuts to form these parts to perfect fits. This is not one out of six fits correctly, but all six! When you buy cheaper you get what you purchase. If a part cost $30.00 from K Factory and some other part cost $20.00 and breaks quickly. What do you have????
It is worth saving up for the parts you wish to add to your car and buy the best. You don't need all of them at one time! Yikes that would make the milk money deplete!!! lol But is nice to know when you do make a purchase of K Factory parts, you bought the best and it will last a long time and do the job you wanted it to do!
SamF
It is worth saving up for the parts you wish to add to your car and buy the best. You don't need all of them at one time! Yikes that would make the milk money deplete!!! lol But is nice to know when you do make a purchase of K Factory parts, you bought the best and it will last a long time and do the job you wanted it to do!
SamF