afm

OFNA'S code system for their Picco glowplugs allways sold the 51006 as the "OFNA/PICCO turbo plug for all engines" which was the old Picco Nº 6 medium (they didn't have cold or hot body back then), so maybe they say now it is equivalent to the new hot body Nº 6 medium filament glow plug

Any way, here is my chart for equivalent MEGA and original PICCO Turbo glow Plugs

MEGA/PICCO TURBO GLOW PLUGS

HOT BODY MORE THAN 70% HUMIDITY
MEG200152 5 Hot Filament
MEG200162 6 Medium Filament
MEG200172 7Cold Filament

COLD BODY LESS THAN 70% HUMIDITY
MEG200151 5 Hot Filament
MEG200161 6 Medium Filament
MEG200171 7 Cold Filament

PICCO TURBO GLOW-PLUGS

HOT BODY MORE THAN 70% HUMIDITY
•P5TH hot filament
•P6TH medium filament
•P7TH cold filament

COLD BODY LESS THAN 70% HUMIDITY
•P5TC hot filament
•P6TC medium filament
•P7TC cold filament

AFM

afm

First of all don't confuse the type of body in a glow plug HOT or COLD with the thermal range or Nº of each type. As I've said before humidity dictates which type of body you'll use. Up to 70% use cold bodied plugs past 70% use hot bodied plugs.
Then you select the Nº according to temp and nitro % colder temps call for hotter filament Nº and vice versa. Higher nitro % call for colder filaments and vice versa.

Experience dictates that just by lowering the head (more compression) you gain more power especially in lower rpm range, idle quality can suffer, but the engine also runs cooler . Also, that a higher head (less compression) will increase top rpm speed on bigger tracks.

A decrease in head shims (an increase in compression ratio) will increase torque because as the compression ratio goes higher, the actual ignition timing occurs sooner. However there is a point of diminishing returns where detonation occurs or engine temps can soar, and if this happens a colder plug can help. A colder plug will also increase torque, except in the instance of a colder plug, the ignition is slowed until a greater point of compression build occurs.
When you increase head shims (a decrease in compression), top end is enhanced as the ignition timing is retarded and occurs later. Generally a hotter plug is needed to advance the ignition cycle so that timing does not occur to late in the cycle, but at this point you end up over leaning the engine to get it to rev properly and the engine life will suffer dramatically.

We should also state that the comments with regards to plugs and head shimming are when both are used together. Used alone a hotter plug will rev harder and a colder plug will make more torque.

AFM

ziggy12345

Hotter plugs give more torque and colder plugs higher revs. The hotter plug will combust the mixture sooner giving advanced ignition (torque) where a cooler plug is retarding the ignition

Cheers

rcrevolution

iTrader: (1)

whoops!

I have been using the picco 51006 here in CT, sealevel about 80% humidty, guess I better buy a cold plug then? I am using 30% nitro.


I got these plugs for $5! so i wanna get some use out of them

Artificial-I

iTrader: (17)

When speaking with ofna. They told me they now classified the 51006 as a hot. So perhaps its more of a perspective change rather than a plug change. Also they said the 51005 is now the medium.

Do you think these two plugs are both cold bodied plugs?

Ffejdat

iTrader: (5)

I started my new JLR tonight, it got 2 tanks of idling and blipping throttle break in, this thing has a nice snarl, it started up the FIRST time I bumped it on the box with a ni starter, very easy motor to break in! I can't wait to actually drive it.... For anyone wanting this motor, or parts for it, I recommend going to Kamikaze hobbies, I ordered parts from them on Monday or Tuesday, they were here by FRIDAY, and Sam was extremly helpful when ordering, great place to deal with.... First HOA race is in 2 weeks!

CHUCKMANDO

iTrader: (4)

Just started braking it in. Very true on easy to start engine. Big difference using the Ofna 51997 seal. Looks to be a fine engine. Will finish brake in tonight I hope.

wiggindude

I agree with the prior posts. If you are looking for a motor. The Red Dot is awsome. Yes and Sam at Kamikazi is one of the best RC dealers. I live in Texas and use him for all my RC stuff. If you dont see it on the web.. just call them.. Look above for link to the web. You cant go wrong...

Sean

rcrevolution

iTrader: (1)

this engine is opening up already with only 2 tanks through it!

Vismund Cygnus

What would be the best method for breaking in this engine?

Team Kamikaze

iTrader: (3)

Read post # 178 on this thread.

Vismund Cygnus

Awesome, thanks!

rcrevolution

iTrader: (1)

i do the same thing with all my engine, I just change tank 1 from idle to very little throttle moving around.

and just so you know these methods get you a long engine life, my OS .12cv-rx lasted me 16 gallons without a single rebuild, until I tried modifiying it myself and ruined it .

Vismund Cygnus

Did you guys change your conrod after you broke it in? I saw some horror stories earlier in the thread and people were saying to change it after break in and every 2 gallons.

Team Kamikaze

iTrader: (3)

No you don't have to change the rod after breaking in the motor, you only change the rod after 2 gallons of fuel thru it, specially if you run the motor hard.