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Old 04-21-2007, 09:32 AM   #301
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Default PICCO PLUGS

OFNA'S code system for their Picco glowplugs allways sold the 51006 as the "OFNA/PICCO turbo plug for all engines" which was the old Picco N 6 medium (they didn't have cold or hot body back then), so maybe they say now it is equivalent to the new hot body N 6 medium filament glow plug

Any way, here is my chart for equivalent MEGA and original PICCO Turbo glow Plugs

MEGA/PICCO TURBO GLOW PLUGS

HOT BODY MORE THAN 70% HUMIDITY
MEG200152 5 Hot Filament
MEG200162 6 Medium Filament
MEG200172 7Cold Filament

COLD BODY LESS THAN 70% HUMIDITY
MEG200151 5 Hot Filament
MEG200161 6 Medium Filament
MEG200171 7 Cold Filament

PICCO TURBO GLOW-PLUGS

HOT BODY MORE THAN 70% HUMIDITY
P5TH hot filament
P6TH medium filament
P7TH cold filament

COLD BODY LESS THAN 70% HUMIDITY
P5TC hot filament
P6TC medium filament
P7TC cold filament

AFM
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Old 04-21-2007, 09:47 AM   #302
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Artificial-I
Here in florida the humidity is high. So perhaps I should run the #51006 HOT plug. The thing I always thought was the hotter the plug the more you advance timing , the colder plug the more you retard the timing. So if they reccomend 25% nitro maximum on the stock shims. Then if I wanted to run lets say 30% like some have. I would probably want to run a colder plug to retard the timing some, so there isnt detonation. Even though the humidity is up there.

The other thing that Ive heard about glow-plugs is that if its hot out you want to run a cooler plug. To keep the motor cooler and a hotter plug to keep the motor going in cold situations.

Then a hotter plug gives more bottom end , while retarding gives you more top end speed. So on a lets say a big track youd want a cold plug to run some more power down the straight. Where a tight track a hotter plug , to keep the power down low.

Then finally two more. One is you want to use a hotter glow plug if your flaming out. This basically ignites the fuel quicker. Which should create a more complete combustion cycle since its starting earlier.

As well a hotter plug overall makes you run more fuel , which should lubricate the motor more , provide more smoke. But at the same time the retarded timing might leave the motor wetter as its not completely burning it up and that I also heard helps keep the motor more lubricated.
First of all don't confuse the type of body in a glow plug HOT or COLD with the thermal range or N of each type. As I've said before humidity dictates which type of body you'll use. Up to 70% use cold bodied plugs past 70% use hot bodied plugs.
Then you select the N according to temp and nitro % colder temps call for hotter filament N and vice versa. Higher nitro % call for colder filaments and vice versa.

Experience dictates that just by lowering the head (more compression) you gain more power especially in lower rpm range, idle quality can suffer, but the engine also runs cooler . Also, that a higher head (less compression) will increase top rpm speed on bigger tracks.

A decrease in head shims (an increase in compression ratio) will increase torque because as the compression ratio goes higher, the actual ignition timing occurs sooner. However there is a point of diminishing returns where detonation occurs or engine temps can soar, and if this happens a colder plug can help. A colder plug will also increase torque, except in the instance of a colder plug, the ignition is slowed until a greater point of compression build occurs.
When you increase head shims (a decrease in compression), top end is enhanced as the ignition timing is retarded and occurs later. Generally a hotter plug is needed to advance the ignition cycle so that timing does not occur to late in the cycle, but at this point you end up over leaning the engine to get it to rev properly and the engine life will suffer dramatically.

We should also state that the comments with regards to plugs and head shimming are when both are used together. Used alone a hotter plug will rev harder and a colder plug will make more torque.

AFM

Last edited by Artificial-I; 04-21-2007 at 06:53 PM.
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Old 04-21-2007, 02:24 PM   #303
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Hotter plugs give more torque and colder plugs higher revs. The hotter plug will combust the mixture sooner giving advanced ignition (torque) where a cooler plug is retarding the ignition

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Old 04-21-2007, 05:08 PM   #304
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whoops!

I have been using the picco 51006 here in CT, sealevel about 80% humidty, guess I better buy a cold plug then? I am using 30% nitro.


I got these plugs for $5! so i wanna get some use out of them
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Old 04-21-2007, 06:50 PM   #305
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Quote:
Originally Posted by afm
OFNA'S code system for their Picco glowplugs allways sold the 51006 as the "OFNA/PICCO turbo plug for all engines" which was the old Picco N 6 medium (they didn't have cold or hot body back then), so maybe they say now it is equivalent to the new hot body N 6 medium filament glow plug

Any way, here is my chart for equivalent MEGA and original PICCO Turbo glow Plugs

MEGA/PICCO TURBO GLOW PLUGS

HOT BODY MORE THAN 70% HUMIDITY
MEG200152 5 Hot Filament
MEG200162 6 Medium Filament
MEG200172 7Cold Filament

COLD BODY LESS THAN 70% HUMIDITY
MEG200151 5 Hot Filament
MEG200161 6 Medium Filament
MEG200171 7 Cold Filament

PICCO TURBO GLOW-PLUGS

HOT BODY MORE THAN 70% HUMIDITY
P5TH hot filament
P6TH medium filament
P7TH cold filament

COLD BODY LESS THAN 70% HUMIDITY
P5TC hot filament
P6TC medium filament
P7TC cold filament

AFM
When speaking with ofna. They told me they now classified the 51006 as a hot. So perhaps its more of a perspective change rather than a plug change. Also they said the 51005 is now the medium.

Do you think these two plugs are both cold bodied plugs?
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Old 04-21-2007, 07:18 PM   #306
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I started my new JLR tonight, it got 2 tanks of idling and blipping throttle break in, this thing has a nice snarl, it started up the FIRST time I bumped it on the box with a ni starter, very easy motor to break in! I can't wait to actually drive it.... For anyone wanting this motor, or parts for it, I recommend going to Kamikaze hobbies, I ordered parts from them on Monday or Tuesday, they were here by FRIDAY, and Sam was extremly helpful when ordering, great place to deal with.... First HOA race is in 2 weeks!
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Old 04-22-2007, 10:55 AM   #307
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Just started braking it in. Very true on easy to start engine. Big difference using the Ofna 51997 seal. Looks to be a fine engine. Will finish brake in tonight I hope.
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Old 04-22-2007, 08:40 PM   #308
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I agree with the prior posts. If you are looking for a motor. The Red Dot is awsome. Yes and Sam at Kamikazi is one of the best RC dealers. I live in Texas and use him for all my RC stuff. If you dont see it on the web.. just call them.. Look above for link to the web. You cant go wrong...

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Old 04-22-2007, 09:03 PM   #309
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this engine is opening up already with only 2 tanks through it!
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Old 04-24-2007, 06:47 PM   #310
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What would be the best method for breaking in this engine?
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Old 04-24-2007, 08:53 PM   #311
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Vismund Cygnus
What would be the best method for breaking in this engine?
Read post # 178 on this thread.
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Old 04-25-2007, 04:59 AM   #312
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Team Kamikaze
Read post # 178 on this thread.
Awesome, thanks!
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Old 04-25-2007, 10:59 AM   #313
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i do the same thing with all my engine, I just change tank 1 from idle to very little throttle moving around.

and just so you know these methods get you a long engine life, my OS .12cv-rx lasted me 16 gallons without a single rebuild, until I tried modifiying it myself and ruined it .
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Old 04-25-2007, 01:14 PM   #314
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Did you guys change your conrod after you broke it in? I saw some horror stories earlier in the thread and people were saying to change it after break in and every 2 gallons.
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Old 04-25-2007, 01:39 PM   #315
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Vismund Cygnus
Did you guys change your conrod after you broke it in? I saw some horror stories earlier in the thread and people were saying to change it after break in and every 2 gallons.
No you don't have to change the rod after breaking in the motor, you only change the rod after 2 gallons of fuel thru it, specially if you run the motor hard.
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