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Old 03-26-2019, 06:27 PM
  #29806  
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Originally Posted by Phillip F
what are the essential hop ups you need to make the M05 easy to drive? A group of guys I race with are pretty fast with their M05s I don't get it.... they have the same brushed setup and tires as me. But I know they have ball diffs and I have the stock gear diffs. Does the ball diff really makes a difference? I come from 2wd off road buggy so this is pretty new to me.... On road using ball diffs....usually when yiu have tons of traction in off road .. we use gear diffs.
Maybe try stabilizer bars, softer springs, wider track, less traction compound front, more stable body, long wheelbase.
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Old 03-26-2019, 06:48 PM
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The ball diff when real tight is good on asphalt with brushed in my experience. 21.5 brushless I wore it out quick. If you don't have the ball diff, you can add extra washers under the beveled gears in the stock gear diff and put a bunch of the Tamiya Anti Wear grease to really tighten it. You can then adjust the case screws to adjust tightness. This held up much better with the brushless power and no aftermarket parts needed. You can also drill a hole in the side of the chassis to be able to adjust the diff tightness also. Just have to eyeball where to put the hole. I don't think there would be a noticeable difference between this and a ball diff.

But like mentioned above, sway bars, wide hubs and soft springs should help. I also felt that adding weight under the servo on the MO5 helped a lot too in the handling dept.
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Old 03-26-2019, 10:04 PM
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Good traction facilitates tight diffs, better drive off of the corners. Either diff can be made to work. Research some threads for setup info.
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Old 03-26-2019, 10:12 PM
  #29809  
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Originally Posted by dmcguire
The ball diff when real tight is good on asphalt with brushed in my experience. 21.5 brushless I wore it out quick. If you don't have the ball diff, you can add extra washers under the beveled gears in the stock gear diff and put a bunch of the Tamiya Anti Wear grease to really tighten it. You can then adjust the case screws to adjust tightness. This held up much better with the brushless power and no aftermarket parts needed. You can also drill a hole in the side of the chassis to be able to adjust the diff tightness also. Just have to eyeball where to put the hole. I don't think there would be a noticeable difference between this and a ball diff.

But like mentioned above, sway bars, wide hubs and soft springs should help. I also felt that adding weight under the servo on the MO5 helped a lot too in the handling dept.
does Tamiya have aftermarket wider hubs? I tried using my AE aluminum hubs (7.0mm) and it binds
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Old 03-26-2019, 11:49 PM
  #29810  
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The diff is most of the easy to driveness imho. I've got an oil filled diff in mine. Drive on mid tonhigh traction carpet. 300k has loads of forward traction, but little off power steering and a lot of on power steering. Its an interesting driving experience and i can get tge quick lap of the meeting like that. 60k has not enough drive out if corners, it's a few 10ths slower on the hot lap but feels much more balanced. I can get very low average to best like that. I'm putting 200k in for Friday.

apart from that I've got a set of shocks and some alloy rear hubs to be able to adjust toe, camber and roll centre. Sway bars aren't needed.
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Old 03-26-2019, 11:58 PM
  #29811  
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Originally Posted by dmcguire
The ball diff when real tight is good on asphalt with brushed in my experience. 21.5 brushless I wore it out quick. If you don't have the ball diff, you can add extra washers under the beveled gears in the stock gear diff and put a bunch of the Tamiya Anti Wear grease to really tighten it. You can then adjust the case screws to adjust tightness. This held up much better with the brushless power and no aftermarket parts needed. You can also drill a hole in the side of the chassis to be able to adjust the diff tightness also. Just have to eyeball where to put the hole. I don't think there would be a noticeable difference between this and a ball diff.

But like mentioned above, sway bars, wide hubs and soft springs should help. I also felt that adding weight under the servo on the MO5 helped a lot too in the handling dept.
Couldnt have said it better myself, except if you’re shimming the diff, you use very little AW grease. Just enough to keep the washers slimy.
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Old 03-27-2019, 12:37 AM
  #29812  
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Originally Posted by Phillip F
what are the essential hop ups you need to make the M05 easy to drive? A group of guys I race with are pretty fast with their M05s I don't get it.... they have the same brushed setup and tires as me. But I know they have ball diffs and I have the stock gear diffs. Does the ball diff really makes a difference? I come from 2wd off road buggy so this is pretty new to me.... On road using ball diffs....usually when yiu have tons of traction in off road .. we use gear diffs.
CA glue the outer sidewall of the front tyres if you’re having grip roll problems, if you’re not then don’t bother. A ball diff or an oil filled diff (Spec-R or 3 Racing) will stop the car “diffing out” in corners - where the lateral weight transfer unloads the inside wheel causing it to spin up and bleed away the power. This sudden loss of power also leads to the car hooking into the corner as the steering you’ve applied initially under power suddenly becomes too much. The fast mini guys are usually fast everywhere because their diffs give them constant traction. Open diffs are fine on straightaways, in spec class racing, when it’s wet or where the track is very, very small and has a lot of tight turns that are taken slowly but anywhere else they’re a waste in a race car. Also, the MG Evo and M07 come with oil diffs now which proves they are the way to go.
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Old 03-27-2019, 05:20 AM
  #29813  
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Originally Posted by Phillip F
does Tamiya have aftermarket wider hubs? I tried using my AE aluminum hubs (7.0mm) and it binds
6mm wide hub is Tamiya 53569. I THINK that's as wide as they offer.
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Old 03-27-2019, 01:29 PM
  #29814  
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Originally Posted by Phillip F
does Tamiya have aftermarket wider hubs? I tried using my AE aluminum hubs (7.0mm) and it binds
unless you’re specifically required to run Tamiya parts I’d just get some 3Racing hexes. They do several thicknesses, part code 3RAC-WX125 (last digit denotes thickness ie 5mm, 6mm, 7mm. No need to go any thicker than 6mm on a mini.
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Old 03-27-2019, 08:18 PM
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Originally Posted by Mini35


unless you’re specifically required to run Tamiya parts I’d just get some 3Racing hexes. They do several thicknesses, part code 3RAC-WX125 (last digit denotes thickness ie 5mm, 6mm, 7mm. No need to go any thicker than 6mm on a mini.
The stock plastic hubs are 6mm
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Old 03-27-2019, 08:44 PM
  #29816  
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Originally Posted by dmcguire
The ball diff when real tight is good on asphalt with brushed in my experience. 21.5 brushless I wore it out quick. If you don't have the ball diff, you can add extra washers under the beveled gears in the stock gear diff and put a bunch of the Tamiya Anti Wear grease to really tighten it. You can then adjust the case screws to adjust tightness. This held up much better with the brushless power and no aftermarket parts needed. You can also drill a hole in the side of the chassis to be able to adjust the diff tightness also. Just have to eyeball where to put the hole. I don't think there would be a noticeable difference between this and a ball diff.

But like mentioned above, sway bars, wide hubs and soft springs should help. I also felt that adding weight under the servo on the MO5 helped a lot too in the handling dept.
when you say put washers under bevel gears are you talking about the big gears only? or all the gears?
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Old 03-27-2019, 11:59 PM
  #29817  
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Originally Posted by Phillip F
when you say put washers under bevel gears are you talking about the big gears only? or all the gears?
Big gears
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Old 06-13-2019, 10:16 AM
  #29818  
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Lets keep this thread going.

So the M07 is now old hat. The M08 is coming out soon. There's been a rumor or two of the M05/06 being dropped from TCS so they can open up mini gearing.

What else is news?
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Old 06-13-2019, 10:29 AM
  #29819  
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Originally Posted by Nerobro
Lets keep this thread going.

So the M07 is now old hat. The M08 is coming out soon. There's been a rumor or two of the M05/06 being dropped from TCS so they can open up mini gearing.

What else is news?
What they should do is release a gear update! I was driving my M06 at 702 yesterday with Ride cheat gears and 23t pinion.. I wasn’t falling asleep on back straight.. I was a second off pace my VTA car!
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Old 06-13-2019, 11:07 AM
  #29820  
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Originally Posted by Raman


What they should do is release a gear update! I was driving my M06 at 702 yesterday with Ride cheat gears and 23t pinion.. I wasn’t falling asleep on back straight.. I was a second off pace my VTA car!
Which holes do you run the motor in with a 23t? I thought pinion options for the cheat gears were 22 or 24 (both in the 20 holes with either the 35 or 33 spur respectively).
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