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Tamiya mini cooper

Old 09-25-2018, 04:08 PM
  #29776  
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Originally Posted by MatsNorway
Nice ride.
Instead of that long and heavy turnbuckle high up from the servo.. get a carbonfiber shaft and drill out those Knuckles. Then add another carbon rod on the outside of the sentral one. Test fit twice.. glue once.

Question: Is there anyone who have ever made a oil diff for the M03?
That long turnbuckle is aluminium and is very light, no need to go custom carbon.

No, there is no oil diff for the M03. People have tried custom mods to fit them in with various degrees of success. Search this thread, they're in here.
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Old 09-26-2018, 01:40 PM
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Originally Posted by MatsNorway

Question: Is there anyone who have ever made a oil diff for the M03?
Yes, I was one of the guys. Converted my Buddy Jochenīs trusty M03 to take a Spec-R gear diff. Car is still racing with that diff. Quite modern M03 now, even yesterday on the Podium on 3rd place during our autumn race. I did the conversion 2013, around 2015 I gave the car back to him to race in our Mini series. Not even a Little problem since the built in. It takes a Carson 16t Dragster set in the meantime, had to modify the rear section a Little to hide the big ESC in the back for grip and lower Cog. Jochen also spent some money a set of Big Bore dampers with the black springs. Still a great car, after all These years. Oh, forgot that it also uses double CVDīs from Tamiya, too.

Greats to Norway,
Matthias
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Old 09-26-2018, 01:41 PM
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Originally Posted by MatsNorway

Question: Is there anyone who have ever made a oil diff for the M03?
Yes, I was one of the guys. Converted my Buddy Jochenīs trusty M03 to take a Spec-R gear diff. Car is still racing with that diff. Quite modern M03 now, even yesterday on the Podium on 3rd place during our autumn race. I did the conversion 2013, around 2015 I gave the car back to him to race in our Mini series. Not even a Little problem since the built in. It takes a Carson 16t Dragster set in the meantime, had to modify the rear section a little to hide the big ESC in the back for grip and lower COG. Jochen also spent some money on a set of Big Bore dampers with the black springs. Still a great car, after all these years. Oh, forgot that it also uses double CVDīs from Tamiya, too.

Greats to Norway,
Matthias
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Old 09-26-2018, 02:27 PM
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This one? for M05?
http://www.spec-r.com/default/images...R009HDMM_m.jpg
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Old 09-26-2018, 02:29 PM
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Originally Posted by MatsNorway

Question: Is there anyone who have ever made a oil diff for the M03?
Yes, I was one of the guys. Converted my Buddy Jochenīs trusty M03 to take a Spec-R gear diff. Car is still racing with that diff. Quite modern M03 now, even yesterday on the Podium on 3rd place during our autumn race. I did the conversion 2013, around 2015 I gave the car back to him to race in our Mini series. Not even a Little problem since the built in. It takes a Carson 16t Dragster set in the meantime, had to modify the rear section a little to hide the big ESC in the back for grip and lower COG. Jochen also spent some money on a set of Big Bore dampers with the black springs. Still a great car, after all these years. Oh, forgot that it also uses double CVDīs from Tamiya, too.

Greats to Norway,
Matthias
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Old 09-26-2018, 02:36 PM
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Originally Posted by MatsNorway
This one? for M05?
Yes,
and sorry, couldnīt delete my double post.
I made a tutorial back in the day on Tamiyaclub:
https://www.tamiyaclub.com/showroom_...asp?cid=121229
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Old 09-26-2018, 04:58 PM
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Originally Posted by ruebiracer
Yes,
and sorry, couldnīt delete my double post.
I made a tutorial back in the day on Tamiyaclub:
https://www.tamiyaclub.com/showroom_...asp?cid=121229
Nice, how do you like the quality of the spec R diff? No leaks? I bought a 3 racing unit in the past but is didn't seal well around the or rings.
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Old 09-26-2018, 11:12 PM
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I'm interested in understanding the great following that Tamiya and specifically this mini chassis has had over all these years. Can some of you share your thoughts?

Also, are there any video links that you can post which may highlight this particular chassis/class at its best?
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Old 09-27-2018, 12:24 AM
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Successful "classes" in r/c almost always hinge upon distinct styling. The Mini's are easy to identify, no matter what body you have one one, they are going to stand out. They're also FWD, which makes them a good bit less challenging to drive. The "I did it wrong" reaction of the car, is almost always push.

As a racing chassis (up until the very late model M05v2 and M07) the mini is pretty terrible. How terrible? Well I'll be quantifying that later this month. But they lack major things, like droop screws, and easy and effective ways to change rear toe. As a basic model, they don't have camber adjustment.

That sounds like an "I don't like minis". I currently own two, and I've owned two more. I ~like~ minis.

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Old 09-27-2018, 08:07 AM
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Originally Posted by DaSilva3525
Nice, how do you like the quality of the spec R diff? No leaks? I bought a 3 racing unit in the past but is didn't seal well around the or rings.
Quality of Spec R-Diffs is really o.k.. No wear on the outdrives yet, although running the M03 without blades. No leakage, too.
3 Racing diff is also one of my favorites, have 4 of them for my M05 / M06. Leaking a bit more sometimes, but in General I had only one really leaking, due to a bad O-ring. The 3 Racing ones Need run in, in the beginning the diffs are very tight from friction, and settle in later. But on M05 I run also not too thick oils, 20k is my favorite, combined with 3 racing diff. Ist a good Quality for the Price, you get blades, aluminum outdrives, nice. Blades can break during attachment, but are compatible with Tamiya 417 blades. If weight is a matter, TB04 diffs adapted to Mini with aluminum outdrives is another Option...
https://www.tamiyaclub.com/showroom_...30513&id=34024

Br,
Matthias
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Last edited by ruebiracer; 09-27-2018 at 08:19 AM.
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Old 11-02-2018, 03:32 PM
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Anyone know a cheaper alternative to Tamiya, 5X8mm Hex Head Ball Connector ,(53969) that have the same size and hex head?

I was thinking of those for my M-05R since the short originals break inside the aluminum steering parts, so it's a pain to remove them as I seem to break them frequently. That longer one would allow screwing far enough through the aluminum to allow securing it with a nut (which in turn would be threadlocked) and in case of breaking it'd be easy enough to remove. Also would do away with the problem of the connectors coming loose, because I currently don't threadlock them due to making it even harder to remove if they snap (I know they can be heated to melt the threadlocker, but still a pain). And also the hex head makes them easier to use that the stock balls.

I guess I'm just being a cheapskate but ~$10 with shipping is a bit meh for 5, and that'd only leave 1 spare for front steering so would probably need two sets anyway. Everything else with enough length and a hex head seems to be 4.8mm for the ball, which would supposedly be slightly too loose.
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Old 11-02-2018, 04:40 PM
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Originally Posted by tvih
Anyone know a cheaper alternative to Tamiya, 5X8mm Hex Head Ball Connector ,(53969) that have the same size and hex head?

I was thinking of those for my M-05R since the short originals break inside the aluminum steering parts, so it's a pain to remove them as I seem to break them frequently. That longer one would allow screwing far enough through the aluminum to allow securing it with a nut (which in turn would be threadlocked) and in case of breaking it'd be easy enough to remove. Also would do away with the problem of the connectors coming loose, because I currently don't threadlock them due to making it even harder to remove if they snap (I know they can be heated to melt the threadlocker, but still a pain). And also the hex head makes them easier to use that the stock balls.

I guess I'm just being a cheapskate but ~$10 with shipping is a bit meh for 5, and that'd only leave 1 spare for front steering so would probably need two sets anyway. Everything else with enough length and a hex head seems to be 4.8mm for the ball, which would supposedly be slightly too loose.
Even though Tamiya calls them 5mm, they're actually 4.8mm. Also be aware that the neck of these studs you linked to is shorter than the ones on the M05 so you'll either need to shim them or accept a geometry change.
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Old 11-22-2018, 01:46 PM
  #29788  
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Does anyone shim the car to take all the play out of the suspension, axles and steering?
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Old 11-22-2018, 02:18 PM
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Especially on my Tamiya's I leave a certain level of play in the steering and suspension as it works in the car's favor.
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Old 11-22-2018, 02:22 PM
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Originally Posted by Bennet80
Does anyone shim the car to take all the play out of the suspension, axles and steering?
I only have the axles shimmed. From what I've heard.. guys in the past would shim everything (tc style) and the car would get worst lol... I leave the slop everywhere but the axles.

My Tc's are a different story regarding everything being perfect.
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