Community
Wiki Posts
Search
Like Tree1Likes

JL Racing .12

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 06-23-2008, 02:07 AM
  #1576  
Tech Initiate
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Cyprus
Posts: 37
Default

Originally Posted by gentleman81
i will look tomorrow and let u know what i have. but i am running the yellow shoe and MSR spring, so it wont be the same.

u should be able to start at the mugen specs that are in the manual
What difference do you see when using the yellow shoe and MSR spring from stock setup?
sllo is offline  
Old 06-23-2008, 11:13 AM
  #1577  
Tech Master
iTrader: (2)
 
gentleman81's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: VA Baby
Posts: 1,657
Trader Rating: 2 (100%+)
Default

it engauges harder which will allow u to have harder acceleration. but it depends on the track conditions too. for lower traction you dont want the clutch to come one to hard. it will break traction. but it can be adjusted
gentleman81 is offline  
Old 06-23-2008, 04:22 PM
  #1578  
Tech Master
iTrader: (2)
 
gentleman81's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: VA Baby
Posts: 1,657
Trader Rating: 2 (100%+)
Default Thanks

Thanks Sam at Kamikaze for the Red Dot parts and everything else I needed!!!
I think they have a private jet for super fast shipping!!!
gentleman81 is offline  
Old 06-24-2008, 09:08 PM
  #1579  
Tech Master
iTrader: (2)
 
gentleman81's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: VA Baby
Posts: 1,657
Trader Rating: 2 (100%+)
Default

cracked my red dot open today for the first time. it runs great but time for some maint.

i notice that i have a burnt brownish residue inside the button head and the head of the piston has this also. along with what may be the begining of pitting. it doesnt seem to be in the metal, just ontop where it should be brown there are some specs of clean metal.

the rod is going in tomorrow, i have heard of something that can be done to brighten the piston head back up, does anyone know?
gentleman81 is offline  
Old 06-25-2008, 01:54 PM
  #1580  
Tech Master
iTrader: (14)
 
roadrage's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Palm Bay, FL.
Posts: 1,282
Trader Rating: 14 (100%+)
Default

you want to see brown on top of the piston,this is showing that the motor is burning oil which is a good thing. as far as the pitting goes that shows that you have detinated a plug and may decrease the performance of the motor.try adding a .1 head shim shim
roadrage is offline  
Old 06-25-2008, 09:01 PM
  #1581  
Tech Master
iTrader: (2)
 
gentleman81's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: VA Baby
Posts: 1,657
Trader Rating: 2 (100%+)
Default

thanks man, did u go the the cap classic?
gentleman81 is offline  
Old 06-26-2008, 07:00 AM
  #1582  
Tech Master
iTrader: (14)
 
roadrage's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Palm Bay, FL.
Posts: 1,282
Trader Rating: 14 (100%+)
Default

no i missed out but ill be at the winternats in ft. myers
roadrage is offline  
Old 06-26-2008, 06:19 PM
  #1583  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (31)
 
TeamCarnage's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Highland In. USA
Posts: 2,078
Trader Rating: 31 (100%+)
Default

Sam- Recieved the Evo3 today! Thanks for the great service! I took it apart and it was spotless. It fired right up, and idled great. I'll finish break-in and have it ready for this weekend for the Byrons Race at Leisure Hours Hobbies this weekend.
For the record, my 1st JL lasted through appx 7-7.5 gals. from last season till now. I raced an MWS event in Cleveland last weekend, and it started to run hot. It never let up and it tempted at 300* after a .5 hr. main. I ordered a new mill Sun. night. In the meantime, I tore down the original mill and found all was well,, The main bearing is a little gritty, but the P/S fit was way better than I expected!!! I only hope to get the same service outta the JL3!
GoodRacing! Nick
TeamCarnage is offline  
Old 06-26-2008, 07:03 PM
  #1584  
Tech Champion
iTrader: (3)
 
Team Kamikaze's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: 我的名字是沈先生。我是中国人, 居住美国
Posts: 8,868
Trader Rating: 3 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by TeamCarnage
Sam- Recieved the Evo3 today! Thanks for the great service! I took it apart and it was spotless. It fired right up, and idled great. I'll finish break-in and have it ready for this weekend for the Byrons Race at Leisure Hours Hobbies this weekend.
For the record, my 1st JL lasted through appx 7-7.5 gals. from last season till now. I raced an MWS event in Cleveland last weekend, and it started to run hot. It never let up and it tempted at 300* after a .5 hr. main. I ordered a new mill Sun. night. In the meantime, I tore down the original mill and found all was well,, The main bearing is a little gritty, but the P/S fit was way better than I expected!!! I only hope to get the same service outta the JL3!
GoodRacing! Nick
Thanks for the good words, anyway the new EVO 3 engine should last you the same way your old mill does, but I suggest you replace the con-rod on your JL that just run at 300 F degrees, to further prolong the life of that engine.
Team Kamikaze is offline  
Old 06-29-2008, 07:17 PM
  #1585  
Tech Regular
 
badKarma's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Madison, WI/Miami, FL
Posts: 443
Default

hey guys,
quick question...just finished the chassis portion of the NT1 and cracked the box open on my JL...whats the best plan of action? do i need to disassemble, oil down the internal parts, and use silicone sealer around the carb neck? how should I approach this?
badKarma is offline  
Old 06-30-2008, 05:36 AM
  #1586  
Tech Addict
 
keavze's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2007
Posts: 590
Default IDM and JLR conrod

is the conrod for the JLR and IDM interchangable?
keavze is offline  
Old 06-30-2008, 10:05 AM
  #1587  
Tech Master
iTrader: (14)
 
roadrage's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Palm Bay, FL.
Posts: 1,282
Trader Rating: 14 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by keavze
is the conrod for the JLR and IDM interchangable?
yes
roadrage is offline  
Old 06-30-2008, 10:06 AM
  #1588  
Tech Master
iTrader: (14)
 
roadrage's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Palm Bay, FL.
Posts: 1,282
Trader Rating: 14 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by badKarma
hey guys,
quick question...just finished the chassis portion of the NT1 and cracked the box open on my JL...whats the best plan of action? do i need to disassemble, oil down the internal parts, and use silicone sealer around the carb neck? how should I approach this?
disassemble to make sure theres no burrs of metal and just grease the neck of the carb for a smooth entry.
roadrage is offline  
Old 07-01-2008, 09:55 PM
  #1589  
Tech Regular
 
badKarma's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Madison, WI/Miami, FL
Posts: 443
Default

guys, what happens if you run the JL .12 in the NT1 but using the flywheel collar that comes with the engine instead of the 6mm Xray collar? can anyone advise? thanks
badKarma is offline  
Old 07-01-2008, 09:57 PM
  #1590  
Tech Champion
iTrader: (3)
 
Team Kamikaze's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: 我的名字是沈先生。我是中国人, 居住美国
Posts: 8,868
Trader Rating: 3 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by badKarma
guys, what happens if you run the JL .12 in the NT1 but using the flywheel collar that comes with the engine instead of the 6mm Xray collar? can anyone advise? thanks
Nothing will happen.
Team Kamikaze is offline  


Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service -

Copyright © 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.