Xray X1 - Formula One Car
#901
I've tried both battery orientations back to back and couldn't really tell much of a difference. My Hero Lap was one tenth faster inline but it did feel a little edgey. Only my fifth time ever running on road carpet so I'm still a noob.
#902
Tech Elite
iTrader: (32)
Maybe it depends on where we put the lead to get the car up to weight min, I had to add 60g of lead, I put 20g on right under recv counter balance esc weight and balance the car left to right then I put 20g each side of the battery where the battery would go if it was sideways, not front to back as I have it
or maybe some are running the car WAY under weight
or maybe some are running the car WAY under weight
#903
Tech Elite
Yep I'll be there. Last race I ran the battery sideways in one qual and inline in another. Car had no turn in. No turn transition in the chicane. Ran wide on exit. Had to hard push brake on almost every corner. Having to turn 100% dual rate lock to lock in corners is telling me something is wrong. Setup was stock except a one step harder center spring and hard Tamiya grease in the Tamiya damper tube.....any suggestions will be appreciated.
Funny the car was good on carpet...
Funny the car was good on carpet...
#904
I have a question as I am building my X1,
The front top suspension arms.
The instructions say to allow free movement of the suspension, so I have not tightened it too much. The screws that go from the top of the suspension to the bottom are flush with the bottom eccentric piece (that adjusts castor). However there is a bit of a gap and If I wanted I could push the entire top suspension off of the plastic housings for each ball pivot. --as it isn't too tight and there is a slight gap.
I took a crappy photo, my camera wouldn't focus on the part, ..but you can see where I am talking about. So how much should I tighten down that top suspension? Do the screws protrude through the bottom? Should there be no gap?
The front top suspension arms.
The instructions say to allow free movement of the suspension, so I have not tightened it too much. The screws that go from the top of the suspension to the bottom are flush with the bottom eccentric piece (that adjusts castor). However there is a bit of a gap and If I wanted I could push the entire top suspension off of the plastic housings for each ball pivot. --as it isn't too tight and there is a slight gap.
I took a crappy photo, my camera wouldn't focus on the part, ..but you can see where I am talking about. So how much should I tighten down that top suspension? Do the screws protrude through the bottom? Should there be no gap?
#906
Thanks ...that is about what I did ...that is helpful, -i'll continue w/ the build that way.
#907
HA! figured out the issue, ...I somehow totally missed snapping the o-rings onto the plastic pivot pieces ...hence why they kept slipping off!!
Now it all makes sense.
...how the heck did I miss that?!
Now it all makes sense.
...how the heck did I miss that?!
#909
Good thing that you realised the mistake before putting it on the track, could have had disastrous results.
I leave the top 4 screws a little loose to start with, and check for free movement after each race day, as they do free up a little over time.
I leave the top 4 screws a little loose to start with, and check for free movement after each race day, as they do free up a little over time.
Anyway, now that the o-rings are in place the amount of tension/tightening w/ the suspension makes perfect sense and is easy to figure out.
thanks for the quick help!
#910
okay, a quick question about the ball diff'.
The instructions are a tad vague, ...how tight/loose do you guys run your ball diff'? guess it depends on track condition ...any recommendations for high grip asphalt?
The instructions are a tad vague, ...how tight/loose do you guys run your ball diff'? guess it depends on track condition ...any recommendations for high grip asphalt?
#911
just tight enough so it doesnt slip when you hold both wheels and try to rotate the spur. Make sure to break it in first and go slow in tightening dont crank it tight then loosen
#914
Where are you running 'high grip asphalt' not norcal
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thanks, i think tightening just to the point that that spur gear doesn't slip when turning wheels will be a good starting point.
#915
..i haven't been to NorCal since they moved from Union City ...San Jose is just too far for me (it's 2hrs drive w/ no traffic).