RC10B4.1 FT/WC
12-05-2011 | 01:45 PM
#8161
12-05-2011 | 02:31 PM
#8162
Tech Adept
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 113
Has anyone tried the hints that are in the thread "Tuning with camber links" ?
I have read thru it and down loaded and cut and pasted hints from it and now it makes more sense on how to set up my car, wouldn't it make more sense to use this as a guide for your track instead of copying someone elses that may or may not work?
I ask this as i read thru many pages of setup questions that may be answered by this thread and wonder if it works or not. Thanks Ron
I have read thru it and down loaded and cut and pasted hints from it and now it makes more sense on how to set up my car, wouldn't it make more sense to use this as a guide for your track instead of copying someone elses that may or may not work?
I ask this as i read thru many pages of setup questions that may be answered by this thread and wonder if it works or not. Thanks Ron
12-05-2011 | 02:33 PM
#8163
Tech Regular
iTrader: (11)
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 396
No spacing needed! I ran on a large medium bite track red front springs 30 weight oil #2 piston and yellow spring 27.5 weight oil #3 piston in the rear and it was great! The silver front springs and pink rear may suit a higher bite track? They didn't work at all for me! Chassis pushed with no rear traction. For you on a medium bite track to keep in mind.
12-05-2011 | 02:39 PM
#8164
Checked amain this morning and noticed they are out of the rpm losi spring mounts. that may have caught them a little off guard, although they are probably on rctech.
Thanks agin for all the set up sharing. my b4(one of the few still running at my track) is running awesome!
Is the two hole castor block luck of the draw or are there sources/part numbers?
Thanks agin for all the set up sharing. my b4(one of the few still running at my track) is running awesome!
Is the two hole castor block luck of the draw or are there sources/part numbers?
12-05-2011 | 03:15 PM
#8165
Has anyone tried the hints that are in the thread "Tuning with camber links" ?
I have read thru it and down loaded and cut and pasted hints from it and now it makes more sense on how to set up my car, wouldn't it make more sense to use this as a guide for your track instead of copying someone elses that may or may not work?
I ask this as i read thru many pages of setup questions that may be answered by this thread and wonder if it works or not. Thanks Ron
I have read thru it and down loaded and cut and pasted hints from it and now it makes more sense on how to set up my car, wouldn't it make more sense to use this as a guide for your track instead of copying someone elses that may or may not work?
I ask this as i read thru many pages of setup questions that may be answered by this thread and wonder if it works or not. Thanks Ron
). I'm not a great tuner to begin with and my driving makes it even tougher to tune properly. If you are scrambling to play catch up to the other racers and have two younger kids' cars to work on in addition to your own, its real easy to slip back into copying setups. My setups from Tuning with Camber Links have definitely been different than typical setups. They tend to have stiffer springs out back in most cases with a rear motored car. There's more than one way to skin a cat! At a bare minimum you are smarter and less ignorant about how to tune your car.
12-05-2011 | 05:11 PM
#8170
Tech Addict
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 672
From: Mechanicsburg
Front end
1/A camber link with 2 washers
0* of toe
30* caster
Inline steering blocks shim the caster block back and move the stud back on the steering rack.
Steering block in the middle of the caster block
2 washers for bump steer
1/outside for the shocks 2 limiters 30wt #2 piston orange Kyosho spring
ride Height 24mm
-1* of camber
Rear end
1/b camerlink with one washer on a shaved u brace and c taps on the hubs.
0* hubs with c taps middle wheelbase (blue washer in the front)
3* of toe in the rear and 2* of antisquat
Inside/inside on the shocks 27.5 wt #2 piston 2 limiters Dark yellow kyosho rear springs.
ride height 24mm
-1* of camber
1/2oz behind toe block
1/4 oz in each rear triangles
1/4 oz in each front triangles
1/A camber link with 2 washers
0* of toe
30* caster
Inline steering blocks shim the caster block back and move the stud back on the steering rack.
Steering block in the middle of the caster block
2 washers for bump steer
1/outside for the shocks 2 limiters 30wt #2 piston orange Kyosho spring
ride Height 24mm
-1* of camber
Rear end
1/b camerlink with one washer on a shaved u brace and c taps on the hubs.
0* hubs with c taps middle wheelbase (blue washer in the front)
3* of toe in the rear and 2* of antisquat
Inside/inside on the shocks 27.5 wt #2 piston 2 limiters Dark yellow kyosho rear springs.
ride height 24mm
-1* of camber
1/2oz behind toe block
1/4 oz in each rear triangles
1/4 oz in each front triangles
12-05-2011 | 08:23 PM
#8172
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 2,161
12-05-2011 | 08:45 PM
#8173
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 8,616
From: New Jersey
12-05-2011 | 09:00 PM
#8175
He is cutting the upper two parts of this brace #9564 where the Ball cup studs go in, to lower the camber link
Upper corners if that brace in the pic
Not cutting but shaving down flat to match the rest of the brace. Lowers the link about 2.1mm
I did this on my SC10 and it is working well. It really works well if you have FT rear blue hubs and the Carbon fiber hub towers. which lower it 2mm at the hubs
Last edited by brent701; 12-05-2011 at 09:10 PM.