SC10 4x4 Thread
The transmission doesn't skip for 'any' reason. You'd want to replace the Diff itself with steel as well. The belt is not even in this equation. Your belt problem was a different entity. The only way your belt could suffer from a steel idler gear is you had the belt far too tight and that was a mistake in the first place.
Ok guys, I'm hoping you guys can help me make up my mind! I currently run a 4.5 550 D3 motor. I really like it, but I want to try a pro4 motor. Should I go with a 4000 & run a larger pinion than I'm used to running or go with the 4600 which should be similar to my D3 4.5 550 (as far as gearing goes...I'm guessing both motors will have more torque than my 550)? I run on a high bite indoor clay track as well as a medium bite larger 1/8 sized outdoor track. I will eventually be running the exotek chassis, so the truck will have some weight, should that have a bearing on which motor to choose? LMK what you guys think!
All Hail Pinned Cherry. King of SC10 4x4. From Alobootmeh-ikstan.
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Now that my dues are paid, If we went to a full Metal Tranny, and Properly set up our trucks.
:I believe everything would be bulletproof. As such with the 8th Scale conversions like the Losi. It's just a little bit of a pricetag. Leave the Plastic Belt pulleys to be malleable with the Rubber and Let that belt skip under hard breaking and let that slipper do it's JOB.
Ok guys, I'm hoping you guys can help me make up my mind! I currently run a 4.5 550 D3 motor. I really like it, but I want to try a pro4 motor. Should I go with a 4000 & run a larger pinion than I'm used to running or go with the 4600 which should be similar to my D3 4.5 550 (as far as gearing goes...I'm guessing both motors will have more torque than my 550)? I run on a high bite indoor clay track as well as a medium bite larger 1/8 sized outdoor track. I will eventually be running the exotek chassis, so the truck will have some weight, should that have a bearing on which motor to choose? LMK what you guys think! 

Last edited by CoyoteSlash; 11-14-2011 at 10:34 PM. Reason: For BLbound's post
it has barely been ran on an indoor clay track, never bashed. has "mtk" clutch basket, ft hubs, shocks fully prepped, spring tuning kits for front and rear, has barcodes 85% and brand new losi eclipses' and i will throw in a pretty good condition desert rat that is custom painted.
$230 shipped to the lower 48
$230 shipped to the lower 48
Ok guys, I'm hoping you guys can help me make up my mind! I currently run a 4.5 550 D3 motor. I really like it, but I want to try a pro4 motor. Should I go with a 4000 & run a larger pinion than I'm used to running or go with the 4600 which should be similar to my D3 4.5 550 (as far as gearing goes...I'm guessing both motors will have more torque than my 550)? I run on a high bite indoor clay track as well as a medium bite larger 1/8 sized outdoor track. I will eventually be running the exotek chassis, so the truck will have some weight, should that have a bearing on which motor to choose? LMK what you guys think! 

There's a tripple we can both clear for around 7 laps till our batteries start to fade. I paid $62 for my ballistic brand new so win win for me.
Ok guys, I'm hoping you guys can help me make up my mind! I currently run a 4.5 550 D3 motor. I really like it, but I want to try a pro4 motor. Should I go with a 4000 & run a larger pinion than I'm used to running or go with the 4600 which should be similar to my D3 4.5 550 (as far as gearing goes...I'm guessing both motors will have more torque than my 550)? I run on a high bite indoor clay track as well as a medium bite larger 1/8 sized outdoor track. I will eventually be running the exotek chassis, so the truck will have some weight, should that have a bearing on which motor to choose? LMK what you guys think! 

Thanks for your advice everybody! I don't know why but the wife has told me I can have a little more play money than usual...I think it's due to her having our baby...her brain is all wacked!?!
Tech Apprentice
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 67
I'm not running pinned, yet , BUT I am running an all metal rear trans and Im toasting spurs like no tomorrow .I'm going to change out my idlers back to plastic and see what happens. I'm also going to play around with the posi spool in the diff and the RRP steel spur.
still waiting on my chassis to show up .
still waiting on my chassis to show up .
I'm not running pinned, yet , BUT I am running an all metal rear trans and Im toasting spurs like no tomorrow .I'm going to change out my idlers back to plastic and see what happens. I'm also going to play around with the posi spool in the diff and the RRP steel spur.
still waiting on my chassis to show up .
still waiting on my chassis to show up .
A 32p correctly meshed Slipper slipping (manual: 2 feet on high traction suggested) Truck; will not destroy spurs, idlers, diffs, belts, etc. (of course, other than different variable issues such as pinning the slipper causing excess power on the plastic parts that were not designed for it.) I'm not talking down on anyone, or attempting not to. But we're locking these rigs up. Having the slipper tightened up is fine, but it must still slip for landings, punch control, and etc. That's RC 101 to 'not' lock that tuning option. (unless for a very specific purpose.) Plastic, metal, Unobtainium, it doesn't matter. When a Basket is installed (or get your slipper to work without one like me), you still have to have it slip. Otherwise, Idlers, diffs, Spurs go pop. Something has to give.
Don't let a plastic Idler gear steer you away from that mod. Trucks that run similar to a pinned design are full steel transmissions. AE got away with Plastic because there was a gearbox per-two tires.
I love. LOVE my pinned Truck for the track I run at, and I've gone threw 2.5 idlers. (my 5minute rear diff pull helps me not get pissed off when I have to get to the idler.
)
I love. LOVE my pinned Truck for the track I run at, and I've gone threw 2.5 idlers. (my 5minute rear diff pull helps me not get pissed off when I have to get to the idler.
)



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