Are the threads stripped? All 4 shocks leak? I see that there are seals that also come with the bladders, are the seals installed?

And the RC8B was also an upgraded/tweaked RC8...so we are 3 generations in now on essentially the same platform...which was first released in January2007! So to say that a 5 year old buggy with all the tweaks already installed is a winner "out of the box" is an interesting statement.

Look at the Losi SC...it is an 8ight with different suspension geometry....heck, you can even turn the thing into a nitro SC since the chassis has all the holes cut for your flywheel, etc... so it is kind of a "generation 2.5" of a design that is even older than the RC8...

The SC104x4 is Gen 1...anything Gen 1 has potential for more performance.

I can't believe this argument is still going on...

when you build the shock, you arent having them hydrolock at full compression? If there is too much presure in the shock, when you fully compress them the oil will come out. Also make sure the caps arent too tight or too loose.

The seals that come with the bladders are for if you are going to run "emulsion" shocks. Do NOT install them AND the bladders.

If you are running bladders, and you are getting leaking out of the lower hole, your bladders are not sealing properly. take teh shocks apart and look for any deformities or tears in the bladder. If there are none, rebuild the shock, making sure to tighten the cap down far enough.

If that STILL doesn't do it, shoot us some pics caps on, caps off, and the bladders not installed, and we might be able to offer other suggestions.

No when I build them I have a couple MM of rebound. Also there is no pressure when the shock shafts are compressed all the way in the shock body.

Ok thanks. If I cant fiquire it out I will post pics later today. I think my bladders are not in the best of shape either which is probably causing my promblem. Also the stock bladders are way to hard in my opinion, so maybe if they got bent up they didnt go back to the shape they where in when they where new. Since they are this hard it might cause the bladder to not sit properly in the shock.

Anyone using an Integy universal setup station? Trying to figure out which adapters I need for the SC10 4x4.

Hey everyone I just bought this SC10 4x4!

http://www.rctech.net/forum/r-c-item...ace-ready.html

Anyone have some time to take a peek at it and give me some ideas about what else I might want to get for it to race it on an indoor clay track?

This is my first 4wd SC truck and I'm going to have quite the learning curve.

I'll try to read this entire thread before it comes in the mail.....lol

Yeah, unfortunately George is locally famous for driving like that.

Any chance you and Kiro could post up your Proving Grounds setups from the weekend like Slashdriver did? I need setup help for PG and trust your input as Kiro's RX8 settings were spot on.

How tight is your MTK slipper setup and what pads are you using? I pinned my slipper and run it with MTK and hd AE pads with the nut set flush to the end of the top shaft. But after only 2 race days on the new truck (about 12 packs run through it) I think I broke the rear idler gear last night on the last lap of the main race. Finished and won the race but the truck sounds like a diesel now.

I will be tearing the truck apart tonight to verify, luckily I just picked up a set of idler gears on Fri. As long as the diff is still good I should be good to go then. Should I switch to std AE pads or remove the pin so I don't toast idler gears every 2 race days?

I'm running a 4000kv Pro 4, RX8 and 15/62 gearing with a 65c 5100mah Lipo on a high bite clay track.

Thanks!

Edit: my current limiter it's set to 60, brakes at 50, timing 10% (3°)

[QUOTE=Oso Negro;9908336]Hey everyone I just bought this SC10 4x4!

http://www.rctech.net/forum/r-c-item...ace-ready.html

Anyone have some time to take a peek at it and give me some ideas about what else I might want to get for it to race it on an indoor clay track?

This is my first 4wd SC truck and I'm going to have quite the learning curve.

I'll try to read this entire thread before it comes in the mail.....lol

From what I can tell the only other thing that would be benenficial would be a chassis brace

[QUOTE=sandsurfer;9908443]That's what I was thinking. Gotta read the thread though...

Like others have mentioned, I took TQ and 1st place at the MI State champs last weekend. I set up a static camera in the corner so I will post up the race once I'm done editing along with all the other A-mains from the day.

Sorry I haven't posted up the setup from Saturday yet and I'll have to wait until I'm home to give accurate ride height settings, but here's the gist:

Tires:
Panther Rattlers Clay compound with the inner 30% of the rear tires having paragon applied 30 minutes before the main. No traction compound on the front.

RX8 key settings:
10 on the timing slider (3.3 degrees of timing)
Default start/end rpms
No drag brake
Brake strength ~60
Current limit 100

Pro4 4000kv geared 16/62
According to the telemetry on my mt-4 radio it came off at 170 degrees after an 8 minute main.

Sc10 key settings:
Ride height approx 22mm f and r
Yellow front springs
Blue rear Springs
35 wt AE oil in the front with 1.2 mm pistons
30 wt AE oil in the rear with 1.2 mm pistons
Shock ends unscrewed 2.5 turns
Outer on the arms, middle on rear tower, and outer on front tower.
RPM arms, medium track length
3mm Roll center shims inboard on all 4 camber links.
Inner hole on front tower outer hole for rear camber links.
Very inner hole on rear knuckle for camber links
1.5 deg of camber all around
0 deg toe with no bump steer washers on the knuckle so that it toed in slightly on compression.
Coyote's Chassis brace
middle belt tensioner settings front and rear
10k front diff
3k rear diff
MTK clutch basket NOT pinned
HD inner/2 standard in the basket
Slipper spring almost fully compressed
Pads are glazed and I leave them that way (probably why I run the slipper spring almost locked down.)
2 oz across the front of the truck behind the servo.
Total weight is 6 lb 6 oz rtr.
5600 mah stick pack is used, but balances left/right perfectly and has a 47/53 Front/Rear weight bias.

lmk if I missed anything. lol

Thanks Kiro, that is what I'm looking for. Was your clicker locked for full time 4wd?

Since you run the Shock ends unscrewed 2.5 turns I'm guessing you have no internal shock limiters, correct?

I had 10k F and 5k R diff fluid and have been pushing bad in the corners with the slipper pinned. Switched to 5k F and 5k R pinned and it still pushes but not as bad.

I think I will unpin the slipper to save the idler gears and see if I gain some steering. Never ran the new truck unpinned (decoupled) so I don't know how much pinning equates to frontal push.

Thanks for typing all that!

A motor, speed control, batteries and a radio system would be good...

Before I go too deep, you did see that it doesn't come with those, right? Race ready is a little deceiving in the title of the thread...

I've really been amazed at the durability, haven't broken anything other than roughing up the body since I got the truck vs. the Rustler which i bought for bashing which I've replaced pretty much every part.

I use the local BMX tack for my after-work practice track and have done all sorts of nasty things to it there.

I wish I had it on video, but I pulled a beauty full rolling jump this weekend. Came down the long straight to the small tabletop, broke too hard and kicked the truck sideways right at the base, then flipped horizontally all the way over the jump, hit the dirt rolled butter side up and kept going.