5LikesSC10 4x4 Thread
11-12-2011 | 07:28 PM
Tech Apprentice
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 67
11-12-2011 | 07:28 PM
a couple of questions for you, since i am just too stupid to by some other truck that can win out of the box with no mods. OOOOOOH wait, there is no other truck that can win with zero mods and even if there was who cares?? i mod my truck because i like to mod RC vehicles! not everyone drives the same or likes their truck to drive like everyone elses, its called personalization.
So answer this:
what company has the most RC championships?
What RC car/truck can win out of the box?
what was your point in trolling this thread?
its ok to "build your own SC" but we cant mod ours?
Cmon man, there is a Slash thread that may appreciate your BS but we dont, if you have nothing to contribute to this thread then please just move on.
11-12-2011 | 07:35 PM
I'm confused because he was making at least somewhat constructive comments in pages past. I think he lost a race and threw the truck down a cliff. 
Sorry Bohdi. Don't even believe to think you ruffled feathers either. Your post is just 'that' ridiculous that it cannot be ignored.
-Moto, I'll try and find the post. But you should be looking too.
Sorry Bohdi. Don't even believe to think you ruffled feathers either. Your post is just 'that' ridiculous that it cannot be ignored.
-Moto, I'll try and find the post. But you should be looking too.
11-12-2011 | 07:39 PM
Quick questin for u guys...
My truck, on high speed straits comin into a 90 degree turn per say, the rear of the truck is loose, off the throtal, it will sometimes spin out it comes around so quick, and u can't get back in the throtal fast enuff to pull it out. What can I do to tightin up the back end?
My setup now:
27.5 rear 32.5 front shock oils,stock springs
5k rear 20k front diff oils
3-3 rear toe block
1 degree camber all the way around
Front is overdrivin
Slipper and clicker is locked down
Enduro's all around
Any tips?
My truck, on high speed straits comin into a 90 degree turn per say, the rear of the truck is loose, off the throtal, it will sometimes spin out it comes around so quick, and u can't get back in the throtal fast enuff to pull it out. What can I do to tightin up the back end?
My setup now:
27.5 rear 32.5 front shock oils,stock springs
5k rear 20k front diff oils
3-3 rear toe block
1 degree camber all the way around
Front is overdrivin
Slipper and clicker is locked down
Enduro's all around
Any tips?
when you overdrive the front you pretty much have to always have some sort of throttle input through the turns or the back will come around, try not letting off the throttle completely past the apex.
the 3-3 block will increase rear traction, increase on power steering and also rotate the back more.
my suggestions would be to go back to the 3-2 block
front yellow sway bar/springs
rear blue sway bar/springs
1* toe in in the front
-1.5* rear camber
raise the front ride height a few mm's
front shocks mounted outside on the arms/middle tower
if you cannot corner with light trigger than eliminate the front overdrive.
11-12-2011 | 07:41 PM
couple of things:
when you overdrive the front you pretty much have to always have some sort of throttle input through the turns or the back will come around, try not letting off the throttle completely past the apex.
the 3-3 block will increase rear traction, increase on power steering and also rotate the back more.
my suggestions would be to go back to the 3-2 block
front yellow sway bar/springs
rear blue sway bar/springs
1* toe in in the front
-1.5* rear camber
raise the front ride height a few mm's
front shocks mounted outside on the arms/middle tower
if you cannot corner with light trigger than eliminate the front overdrive.
when you overdrive the front you pretty much have to always have some sort of throttle input through the turns or the back will come around, try not letting off the throttle completely past the apex.
the 3-3 block will increase rear traction, increase on power steering and also rotate the back more.
my suggestions would be to go back to the 3-2 block
front yellow sway bar/springs
rear blue sway bar/springs
1* toe in in the front
-1.5* rear camber
raise the front ride height a few mm's
front shocks mounted outside on the arms/middle tower
if you cannot corner with light trigger than eliminate the front overdrive.
11-12-2011 | 07:57 PM
11-12-2011 | 08:00 PM
Tech Adept
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 192
Quick questin for u guys...
My truck, on high speed straits comin into a 90 degree turn per say, the rear of the truck is loose, off the throtal, it will sometimes spin out it comes around so quick, and u can't get back in the throtal fast enuff to pull it out. What can I do to tightin up the back end?
My setup now:
27.5 rear 32.5 front shock oils,stock springs
5k rear 20k front diff oils
3-3 rear toe block
1 degree camber all the way around
Front is overdrivin
Slipper and clicker is locked down
Enduro's all around
Any tips?
My truck, on high speed straits comin into a 90 degree turn per say, the rear of the truck is loose, off the throtal, it will sometimes spin out it comes around so quick, and u can't get back in the throtal fast enuff to pull it out. What can I do to tightin up the back end?
My setup now:
27.5 rear 32.5 front shock oils,stock springs
5k rear 20k front diff oils
3-3 rear toe block
1 degree camber all the way around
Front is overdrivin
Slipper and clicker is locked down
Enduro's all around
Any tips?
next if you go thicker in the rear it make it less responsive off power witch is good on most out door track/slippery. i think you would like 7-10k on rear diff might make you truck want to flip more so try more camber if it dose.(if on tight high grip track lower the front to 10k)
11-12-2011 | 08:06 PM
As a get by, you can try driving the truck a little different. Lift before you get to the corner, wait for the weight to transfer, and then gently crack the throttle before you turn in.
When my truck was at its most evil doing what you are describing, turned out the stock A arms had bent to the point where they bound up on the hinge pins.
When my truck was at its most evil doing what you are describing, turned out the stock A arms had bent to the point where they bound up on the hinge pins.
11-12-2011 | 08:11 PM
While you all sit there and make mods, play with set-up, yadda, yadda, yadda, none of you have come to grips that the car is a basher only. I am an AE fanboy and know it is a POS when it comes to racing
I will not sell it as my 8yo loves it for playing in the yard but YOU will not be able to truly compete on a track with any mods. We are not the Ryan's and never will be. The Losi sucks too as you have to spend more money to upgrade the soft metal but it is so heavy and planted, we cannot compete unless you have a long main where you know the batts will dump on th Losi.
I suspect AE knows this as well. I am sure I will get flamed but it is the truth.
BTW, I post this knowing I have not had one issue that everyone else has had either. No slipping belt, no bent cvds, no warped a-arms. I do have the clutch basket though.
I will not buy a Losi though and would rather dump the class but will probably build an sc10 out of excess rc8 parts.
I will not sell it as my 8yo loves it for playing in the yard but YOU will not be able to truly compete on a track with any mods. We are not the Ryan's and never will be. The Losi sucks too as you have to spend more money to upgrade the soft metal but it is so heavy and planted, we cannot compete unless you have a long main where you know the batts will dump on th Losi.
I suspect AE knows this as well. I am sure I will get flamed but it is the truth.
BTW, I post this knowing I have not had one issue that everyone else has had either. No slipping belt, no bent cvds, no warped a-arms. I do have the clutch basket though.
I will not buy a Losi though and would rather dump the class but will probably build an sc10 out of excess rc8 parts.
11-12-2011 | 08:12 PM
couple of things:
when you overdrive the front you pretty much have to always have some sort of throttle input through the turns or the back will come around, try not letting off the throttle completely past the apex.
the 3-3 block will increase rear traction, increase on power steering and also rotate the back more.
my suggestions would be to go back to the 3-2 block
front yellow sway bar/springs
rear blue sway bar/springs
1* toe in in the front
-1.5* rear camber
raise the front ride height a few mm's
front shocks mounted outside on the arms/middle tower
if you cannot corner with light trigger than eliminate the front overdrive.
when you overdrive the front you pretty much have to always have some sort of throttle input through the turns or the back will come around, try not letting off the throttle completely past the apex.
the 3-3 block will increase rear traction, increase on power steering and also rotate the back more.
my suggestions would be to go back to the 3-2 block
front yellow sway bar/springs
rear blue sway bar/springs
1* toe in in the front
-1.5* rear camber
raise the front ride height a few mm's
front shocks mounted outside on the arms/middle tower
if you cannot corner with light trigger than eliminate the front overdrive.
5k rear diff 60k front
I took the pin out and went with the 19t pulley up front.
It FLYS
You gotta stay on the gas a little in the corner or it will traction roll.
I also have the arm shock mounts on the outer hole. tower are in the middle. 2mm sway bar front and rear.
I went from -1 to -2 rear camber and 0 toe in the front
I ran my best time Friday night
Old time 12.14
Pinned 20t front pulley
-1 rear camber
+1 front toe.
slipper 1 thread in from flush
New time 11.74(5)
pinned removed 19t front pulley
-2 rear camber
0 front toe
Slipper 1 thread in from flush
I am starting to really like this truck. I was going to get a Novak 550 can 4.5T motor setup to replace my castle 3800kv
after running with a Novak 5.5T 550 can. I see no real point
Last edited by brent701; 11-12-2011 at 08:44 PM.
11-12-2011 | 08:34 PM
For the record...
I have the ft alum fieriest and screws (not using many) and the ft shock kits but I didn't spend a penny on them. A certain AE team driver gave them to me along with a bnib reedy sonic 6.5 brushless.
Now, as far as why people add weight after they put the lightweight stuff on is kinda simple, get the weight as low as possible. Its extreamly important to get the weight lower in rock crawling, why not in sc racing and other offload racing.
I have the ft alum fieriest and screws (not using many) and the ft shock kits but I didn't spend a penny on them. A certain AE team driver gave them to me along with a bnib reedy sonic 6.5 brushless.
Now, as far as why people add weight after they put the lightweight stuff on is kinda simple, get the weight as low as possible. Its extreamly important to get the weight lower in rock crawling, why not in sc racing and other offload racing.
also, if anyone is still figuring out the whole chassis brace thing, i bought a tail boom support (pack of 2) for an align trex 600 heli, cut off one end and drilled out the plastic end piece, cut the rod to size and epoxied it back on to the length i needed. it wasn't much work at all, and the pack of two support rods was 7 bucks. so i can make another one to have a spare.
it basically turned out the same as the guys starting with carbon rods and using the rc8 shock ends, but i got TWO for 7 bucks. do i win for cheapest brace?