Losing a phase going flat-out will likely kill the controller.

who knows anything solid about E-truggy?

LRP makes very solid electronics products, but as the above post said, I would not solder bullet connectors onto the motor. For that matter, I wouldn't put bullet connectors anywhere but on the batteries, everything else would be hard soldered (directly to the appropriate posts/tabs).

I've owned a number of LRP ESC's in the past and all were very reliable. They may not have the features of the RX8's, but they don't have the price tag either IIRC.

Ok no bullet connectors to motor from esc....right? but isnt that current only as large as the battery is to the esc?? I have bullet connectors from the batteries to the esc using:

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...po%5FPack.html

So far no problems, where is the danger?

I don't know about the current draw issue others were speaking of, but I do know it's just one more unnecessary thing to fail.

The less places for something to fail, the better. A solder joint is always going to be better than two solder joints connected with a bullet connector.

Also keep in mind that bullet connectors from batteries, individually, are only carrying the voltage from that cell. So in the case of the 811E, each bullet connector in the battery is carrying 4.2v from the battery.

I honestly don't know about bullet connectors anywhere else, I've never used them for anything but batteries. Everything else is a hard solder joint.

I wasn't doubting LRP's rep, but it will be interseting to see how this esc goes when it does come out. Perhaps there will be the option to solder cables indirectly onto the esc as well as use bullet connectors.
I'm still deciding about which esc to get, this new LRP or Tekin. The Tekin looks good, and to be honest with Randy on here and oople giving some fantastic and open support it is swaying me pretty hard that way. I suspect that both will be about the same price. I can't do anyhting at the mo anyway as in Sri Lanka at the mo and off to Auckland tonight, return home at the end of November.

I've been running bullets since day one if you change when need there really isn't any issue buying quality connections is key as Randy stated some don't handle the power draw I add cause I take out my motor a lot for maintenance also if I want to change staters it makes for a easy job

Not correct. Each connector in a series set-up like the one with two 7.4V lipo packs, like in the 811E, will have the total voltage of the packs (14.8V), and they will also be "exposed" to the total current draw of the system (and not divided by how many connectors you have).

Regarding the number of connectors, more connectors usually equals higher resistance for the current to flow, and therefore more heat is generated. Heat is the primary enemy in any system and can kill connectors and other components over time.

This is the question I'm interested in also?

Just back from a blown out non maintained track, but I got to test some setup after advice from Billy Easton (thanks Paul ) this car has so much weight in the front that when it transfers to the rear on acceleration the transfer is large instead of small compared to a conventional setup. So the rear will become loose when you soften up the rear like you would on a reg setup buggy. So making the back stiffer is the opposite way you would think to gain more rear traction but it works with this buggy.

Here is the setup that I came up with and its not done but it drove very nice on a loose blown out track. It has a lot of off power steering and is very stable on hard acceleration, on power steering in the corners is nice and easy to control as long as you dont punch it hard and maintain throttle control. Anyway its just what I came up with.
(BTW it is on a nitro sheet as I could not find an editable Be sheet.)

https://docs.google.com/open?id=0B2R...VmNjdkZGRiYmFm

When I saw your tires turn into pizza cutters in that video I figured the car transferred a ton of weight to the rear. Good to know, thanks for the set up.

Ya no more pizza cutters with this setup And all I changed was springs and swaybars

i carn't open your set sheet witch springs and swaybars did you change to

Both links take you to the setup sheet. But I used
Front 2.5 blue serpent springs 40wt
Rear 2.3 white serpent springs 27.5 wt

Anyone else have an issue with the setup sheet I posted?

.

Was looking at the new manual. Every where it totes captured pins but is the grub screw that grabs the diff coupler captured? If not anyone doing anything special? Like using red thread lock or heat shrink?