Ok thanks.

The point of using the slipper basket with the pin modification is to increase the clamping power of the slipper with more surface area from the additional pad, allowing you to run the setup looser so that it saves the driveline parts, yet not so loose that you lose performance or smoke the slipper. Plus you have more finite adjustment.

That's why I said I'd run three HD pads. I bought a pair of idlers just because other users claim they've broke them for spares, but after three months, I still haven't broke anything on this truck.

I did knock a tie rod off during practice on Sunday if that counts. Stay off the fence!

with the pin mod, I did actually lose a single tooth on my idler gear, mantis was able to see it first hand, but since changing it out it's fine and no issues as of now.

so what is the verdict then if you go with the pin mod and the clutch basket as far as the number and type of pads to use?

I don't even bother with the basket, while some like it, I like the current setup that I have right now, the pin mod with the rcshox garodiscs, with the combination together it is really nice, stays planted and provides great forward motion.

i run 3 hd pads in the basket with the pin. no issues.

Sour aren't you running a tekin pro4? maybe that's why your idler gear decided to give up. lol

I am running a pro4 4600kv, lol. but it's dialed back a lot, at 100% this motor is crazy in our trucks.

Yea, heavier trucks make better berms!

Yep, ran a full 5000mah on grass the other day and motor came back at 120, was about 75 degs at the time. My esc has yet to peak 100deg.

What's the biggest one you can fit in the truck without mods? Don't care about hard case or ROAR, already got an approved batt for racing but want more runtime for practice.

I think a couple people have bought the Hot Racing Diffs. How are they holding up? Are they getting super wobbly (assuming you limited uptravel). Does it look like any oil is leaking out of them?

On a side note, I can now change the front diff, which includes cleaning out the gears and re-assemble in about 30mins. Think I can get that down to 20 mins or so with a power tool. Nothing else owning this truck has made me 100 x more mechanically inclined.

So when you have the topshaft pinned, and you have no option for a basket or any other exotic slipperpads.
what is the best slipper setup without destroing the idler gear?

Just run the pinned shaft and use the AE HD-pads on the inside and outside?

will that be enough to keep the idler gear in shape and keep the "acceleration" or will you have to run the slipper to loose, so that the trucks loses his "acceleration"

Im running pinned, have no basked and no exotic pads, but my old jammin still has better acceleration.

I guess I must be doing something wrong, but what? ( dont wanne destroy idler gears )

Hey Guys,

I am new to the thread and I wanted to ask a few basic questions about tweaks that have been made to your SC10 4x4.

1) Battery placement- from what I have read the best place to have the battery is forward and using a saddle back does the trick. Correct
2) Slipper issues, what happened? My SC10 4x4 is on order this week and I would like to build it correct the first time.

Thanks
Kevin Boyle

it's not to say there is anything wrong per-say, but the upgraded garodiscs are much stronger, rcshox makes an excellent set.