Mines are wobbly as hell too, and leaking from every single possible place, except the paper joint.

I'm gonna drive this housings till the wheels fall off, and when that happens, I'll thoroughly calculate everything about the suspension geometry, install new diff housings and get the most out of this.

OFC, I'll share it all with you folks, in exchange for what I've learned about the truck here


As for now, I don't even care filling them with silicone oil of specific viscosities. I just run SKF Lithium grease upfront (it's about 7000cps) and SKF Copper grease in the rear (around 4000cps).

It's all chemically neutral bearing grease, around €8 a 500g tube. I don't bother using expensive good stuff on things that are falling apart.

Off topic, But thanks for all the suport for the MTK Clutch Basket, although my favorite was Botswon's "All hail him and his glorious basket. Wouldn't be the same truck without his work." The timing was perfect as I was unemployed at the time, And it kept be busy as hell when I started a new job, and still tried to get the orders out as soon as possible.

I am sure curious to see what AE has come up with, but unfortunately, my local AE driver is in onroad racing mode, so I'll have to wait like everyone else.

Decided to check my outdrives today. Man I got like 5 packs through this truck due to esc problems but my outdrives are so sloppy. All four can move side to side alot.

Off topic but novak has excellent customer service. Sent me a new esc in the box no charge. Turns out the power board was defective.

Got the chassis brace and pinned slipper mods done. Gonna run this weekend. More worried about the esc performing but hopin to lay down some power.

I have some side to side and up and down movement but no leaks at all. I hate leaky diffs so I do the best I can to not leak. The associated green slime helps a lot on this as well as extra shims. Shims that are so thin that they bend just looking at them.

What body do most people seem to run?

Mark

Im still runnin the stock body but will probly go to jconcepts next. I always had good luck with those on b4 and t4. They are thicker and hold up better.

Krio, here are a few pics of the RPM arms installed. Not quite sure what you were looking for, so tried several different angles. Just a general overhead, then shots of the front and back. Last 2 are the front suspension fully compressed. First one from the top side, looking at front of truck. Last one frim beneath a-arm. WHen fully compressed, arm is still about 2mm from outdrive, but I have shock boots on. Hard to say for sure, but there may be a chance it would clip the outdrive. Rears I don't think would have any problems. When I get a chance I'll take the boots off and see.

Ok a couple questions, The last thing I want to do is come across as lazy. I will read links just not 600 pages.
Anyway I have been thinking of getting a SC10 4x4 and throwing my 3800kv motor in it. These should be all the upgrades I need right? Any I am missing?
Sway bars
High Torque slipper pads
A lot of time for tuning

Anything else I should know about before I buy this truck? Will 15/62 be good for gearing?

Thanks!

I just saw Maifields setup that he ran at the reedy truck race of champions...interesting note that he made was that he ran the standard decoupled slipper...no pinning...but with a multi-plate clutch basket...I'm sure similar to the Mtk basket.

I had a friend post on my facebook that they are playing with up to 3 slipper pads? Crazy.

For those of you who have pinned the slipper, have you run it with the clicker unlocked? If so what sort of difference did you notice?

I haven't had the time to implement the mod yet, but it seems like running the clicker unlocked would increase the turn in that seems to be lost when the slipper has been modified. Cerainly impoves turn in my unmodified truck. Just a thought.

Maybe I missed mention of this some where back there many posts ago...

I,ve had an SC10 4x4 since it came out, but had trouble putting down all the power my Tekin 4.5 SX4 could put out (non-boosted) I cranked down my slipper and even then would just glaze the pads if i wasn't careful. I just installed the mtk basket the other day and WOW! huge difference. slipper is now tightened down about halfway and will pull the smoothest wheelies when I give it the beans down the straights. I wouldn't have ever heard about the basket if it weren't for ya'll here on this thread. Thanks everybody....

I'm running the MMP/1410 (3800kv) motor in my SC10 4x4 and I'm geared at 15/62...the thing is a ROCKET! I've got my throttle endpoint dialed back to 90. Running a stock slipper pad on the front wheels and an HD on the back wheels. Slipper tight-ish but not locked down. If you run the clutch basket you'll have a much more maintenance-free slipper set-up. I don't have it and I wind up having to check my slipper after (or before) every race to make sure it hasn't backed itself off. Tonight I put some blue locktight on it. Haven't checked it after the main. But I think that'll keep it in place (hopefully).

I think you're list is probably a good place to start. I would also recommend getting a spare set of front a-arms. Probably the RPM ones. These things bend from normal use but the RPM ones won't...they are beefier and (believe it or not) actually harder than the stockers.

I built my belt tunnel stiffener (or, as T Bird junkie quitter would call it, a "bandaid") tonight. Fairly straightforward, thank you to the user who donated a piece of carbon to my cause.

Now for the bad part.

The front chassis screw is pretty robust (it's long and goes into a lot of structure in and around the steering that is also pretty robust), but that screw in the back is going to force a TON of bending loads onto a piece of plastic that really wasn't designed to take that kind of load. Even with a bunch of washers to spread out the dead load, man....

If I can get another piece of carbon, I'm going to build one that goes from the front shock tower to the rear shock tower - there's a ton of structure to offset the brace.

My RPM arms rub slightly on the CVA's near the rear stub axle. I will clearance them accordingly, but doubt they would hit at all if I didn't have the extra travel in the truck.

ThunderbirdJunkie would be correct, since it's a fix for poor materials and SHOULD NOT be needed.

Just sayin'