old school novak 4.5 ballistic 16/62 with 30* of timing on the endbell comes off the track at 110* with ESC at 120!!

Coyoteslash- Nice. Was thinking this morning about what I'd use to build a brace and thread it, and there's my answer. Is that 4-40/3mm rod? Is ID of the carbon tube big enough to go to a bigger rod and run maybe 1/8 scale shock eyelets?

Mantis- Truck looks good. Biggest difference I see from driving Sym's is yours seems to pull through the corner and square up better on exit. Did yours get better after you pinned the slipper? Headed up there this morning to run a couple packs through my 2wd buggy and pick up some tires, then it's kid stuff all day. Wish I could come play at HARC, but no way. Do NOT let Bobby beat you in SC today LOL. Smiley, yeah, well, if you beat him straight up, I'll be impressed.

So which is it? I've seen pics of the rear pinned but have also read about the "pinned front shaft"?! I'm a bit confused like some others...


MantisWorx - your truck looks good on a rather tight blownout track... where did you "pin" it?

I have those same parts in the pic. Would like to see your finished and also what u used to mount to chassis and where. I have been looking at this stuuff for a few days trying to figure out how I will do it. Your example would be appreciated

fellow ae sc104x4 drivers: i have recently purchased an ae sc 10 4x4.In detail if some has time to describe to me the upgrades and parts and manufactures that i need to get mine modded up except for the bracing i can figure that part out from pics lol, i would greatly appreciate it. ie, clutch basket pinned slipper; not sure what yall r talkin bout ther. thx again. i have heard tons of people knockin this truck and really want to put it to them on the track when we get inside and runnin.

The front input shaft is keyed for the clicker, it c'ain't slip.

The inside pulley/slipper plate on the rear shaft is NOT keyed in stock form, the outside slipper plate is keyed in stock form.

The mod is to pin/key the inside rear pulley/slipper plate to the rear shaft.

Chris MUCH better after pinning so much that you need to build your truck with it already pinned. good race today Wipf tq'd me by 3 seconds he had the traffic mojo today! i beat his laptime by almost a half a second! just couldnt get around the 12 trucks in each qualifier with any luck??? at any rate the mains was a good battle between us , i was clearly quicker and got in front of him twice but he gave me the Losi nudge spinning me around twice, kinda pissed me off. than at the end my truck starting losing power and eventually died. i think i have the old GTB that is not 2.4 ready because it has been doing weird stuff and "creepin" since i installed it, time for a new speedo! Truck was great and i am happy with it

do you have the clutch basket?

I don't think he does.

i do but didnt use it today

I ran my truck with the pinned shaft today. I didnt even get a full pack and i lost the idler gear in the rear tranny so i fixed it and when back out and same thing happened. I fixed it again and unpinned it and it was fine the rest of the day. I never had any type of tranny problems before i pinned the shaft. I am running the clutch basket and i generally run the nut flush. When i lost the second idler gear i was actually running the nut backed off from flush. It doesnt sound like anyone else is having this issue, wonder why i am?

Not really understanding the need for a full rod through the braces.
The .25 dia carbon fiber rod i used is beyond stiff. I leaned on it and it didnt budge. I have gone from solid bonded ends with jb weld, to floating ends in shoe goo that offers a little give till cf rod locks out on rod ends where it fattens, To now building a spring loaded adjustable tension and one way flexing end that allows a small bit of flex and absorbtion on the meaty lawn dart type impacts , but offering alot of rigidity for handling and belt cover issues.

Adding a huge fat rod the lenght of the vehicle that high up is also just adding more to the top heavyness of this truck for no need. IMHO .

To each his own though . Looks like a clean build otherwise and will definitly add to the handling and durability of these trucks

j

Please read the thread like everyone else had to. We've listed stuff for probably 15-20 of you one time posters. I'm not 'trying' to be rude but it gets to a point where we are tired of it. There is so much wonderful information here. Read 10 pages at a time and learn the truck, you'll be pleasantly surprised with the knowledge here. It's not dry.

There is a picture of it complete within a page of what you quoted. Mounted it like everyone else. Front Underbody post with same screw, and drilled a hole above the motor and threaded a screw through with a nut on top. Really easy stuff.

You sure could. I think it's unnecessary though. It flexes very little, only enough to throw the belt if you are one of those guys. This 5mm carbon shaft is more than enough. The carbon tube in this situation was 'not' large enough to get a larger threaded rod. I went down a size to fit. You could go up one step in rod, and shaft and make it work. For sure. Go with bigger eyelets though. They'll look dwarfed.

I stated in the post that I was lazy and didn't want to epoxy a stud in each end. =)

And the rod itself ended up weighing... 7 ounces? Meh.

Hey coyote ,that was not a dig towards you

just info and insight towards the other guy that wanted to go to a even fatter rod with 1/8 ends