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Old 10-06-2011 | 06:49 AM
  #8146  
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Just thought about this, does the RPM arms hit the outdrives like the stock arms. Hopefully not, that will help with the wobbly, leaking diffs!
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Old 10-06-2011 | 06:50 AM
  #8147  
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Originally Posted by hijinx
I cleaned up the gear diff bodies with some brake cleaner, smeared some AE green slime on the paper seals, no diff oil leaks out at all
So you used green slime on the paper seals in the diff and it doesnt leak out slowly?

I need to find a way to keep the diffs from leaking out all the oil. They are to hard to get to, to keep changing every couple races...
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Old 10-06-2011 | 06:53 AM
  #8148  
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Originally Posted by symmetricon
The diffs get wobbly when the copper inserts in the diffs, where the outdrives go in, wear out. Why AE used copper instead of steel, I dont know That is why I bought hot racings hard anodized diffs, but the question is, will they last? Only time will tell.
Did the hot racing diffs look like they are built better than the stock ones?
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Old 10-06-2011 | 07:12 AM
  #8149  
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Oh, thanks a lot Chad!

I'll be adding 3mm clips to limit that travel.

It surprised me because the rear diff (where all the action is supposed to happen) is still like new, and the front one is the one that's severely worn.

Waiting eagerly for the hard anodized results
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Old 10-06-2011 | 07:19 AM
  #8150  
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Originally Posted by Chad Smith
Yes you can, I am running the LRP sxx v2 TC Spec esc with the tekin 550 motor. It runs awesome, and the esc doesnt overheat or anything.
+1. I called AE and talked to Donn last week. He said no problem.
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Old 10-06-2011 | 07:29 AM
  #8151  
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Can someone please tell me what the 2 plastic cover that you put on to cover and retain the rear hinge pins do?

they have markings:

3-2
3-3

What do those ## stand for?

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Old 10-06-2011 | 07:34 AM
  #8152  
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Originally Posted by zzztech
Can someone please tell me what the 2 plastic cover that you put on to cover and retain the rear hinge pins do?

they have markings:

3-2
3-3

What do those ## stand for?

3deg of toe 2deg of antiswat.
3deg of toe 3deg of antiswat.
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Old 10-06-2011 | 08:13 AM
  #8153  
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Originally Posted by jpure009
OK,
I got the DIFF & SERVO out with taking out the minimal screws&washers
as possible, i think.....

I found a replacement for the screw that backed out and looked slightly bent,(post above^)..... My main problem with the servo is the sub trim being way off, do I need to use the servo TOOL that straightens it out again??? I did that like 1st step while building, but it didn't come out right....I have the Battery/ESC/RX for when I am ready to put the servo horn on....

Do i have the correct thinking here, do I need to take anything else out to put the servo& diff back in correctly??????/


ALSO, I am considering using the BLUE ALUMINUM nuts, while rebuilding what i have taken apart?? thoughts?? only nuts/not screws....
I only ran the truck 4x, so i was going to wait alil longer before replacing the nuts.

ANY advice....
THX going to sleep, check back 2morow
i did the same thing.. cept i didnt get into the diffs.. to pull the front of the truck off.. i removed the 6 screws holding the front clip to the center main chassis.. and also removed the belt cover.. and pulled the belt. i am not certain if this is needed to be done.. i think i may be able to pull the top plate over the servo.. without having to pull the whole front clip.. but i will wait till i mess iwth it again..

i also have the trims off.. on my radio.. i had the servo centered.. and as straight as i could get it.. mounted the arm.. put the car back together.. and when it came time to adjust the trim.. my subtrim was off.. so now my subtrim is way to the right..

I am using KO propo servo and radio as well..
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Old 10-06-2011 | 08:25 AM
  #8154  
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here is mine.. ready for this weekend.. see what happens.. and if i can break anything.. lol.. hope not..
Attached Thumbnails SC10 4x4 Thread-imagejpeg_3_17.jpg  
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Old 10-06-2011 | 08:28 AM
  #8155  
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what would be a good gearing to start with on a Pro4 4000/Rx8 on a small (90x40) indoor track?
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Old 10-06-2011 | 09:04 AM
  #8156  
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Originally Posted by Artikbot
Oh, thanks a lot Chad!

I'll be adding 3mm clips to limit that travel.

It surprised me because the rear diff (where all the action is supposed to happen) is still like new, and the front one is the one that's severely worn.

Waiting eagerly for the hard anodized results
Yup, maybe becauses we land on the front wheels first before the rear. So the front takes more of the impact. And the a arms hit the diff more than in the rear. That is crazy though!

Maybe Associated built the rear one right this time lol.
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Old 10-06-2011 | 09:05 AM
  #8157  
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Where are you guys limiting up travel at in the shocks?
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Old 10-06-2011 | 09:15 AM
  #8158  
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on the shock shaft outside the shock body..
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Old 10-06-2011 | 09:21 AM
  #8159  
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Originally Posted by dgrobe2112
on the shock shaft outside the shock body..
Any pics. So i can get an idea on what to use and how it works.
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Old 10-06-2011 | 09:28 AM
  #8160  
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Originally Posted by FlatBusted
what would be a good gearing to start with on a Pro4 4000/Rx8 on a small (90x40) indoor track?
62x15 should work well.................
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