5LikesSC10 4x4 Thread
10-04-2011 | 07:42 PM
#8101
Though that being said, there's that new radio company that has the full colour LCD screen...I'm hearing REALLY good things about them, and the radio surprisingly doesn't break the bank....
10-04-2011 | 09:51 PM
#8102
alright guys, lets see if someone can help me. Im so frustrated i want to throw this thing in the trash can lol. im running a mamba max, sc401, and a associated 1015. the truck is awesome i love the power and now that i have the steering issue fixed im still stuck in a bind!! whenever i turn the steering all the way right and all the way left the trucks power cuts out. what the eff am i doing wrong? i know im new but shiiittttt this is getting confusing. Im running a glitch buster, do i need a castle bec? i can only drive straight and turn maybe 40% without it cutting out. As soon as its a full 100% the truck stops until i let off the steering. Do you guys know what it is? i will buy a bec if that will help.
10-04-2011 | 10:10 PM
#8103
I would highly suggest every user pull his/her A arms off every race day, and check for straightness...I changed my warped front ones and it's like I have an all new truck. It was downright evil off power before I fixed the bind in the front end.
10-04-2011 | 10:51 PM
#8104
Tech Adept
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 168
SPECTRUM PHONE #?
check out a specktrum,good units and good factory service. they fixed two of mine,said there wasn't anything wrong with them, but changed circuit boards and antennas anyway...(?)
still at least they fixed them and didn't charge for their service and one was over a year old,i call that good service..
still at least they fixed them and didn't charge for their service and one was over a year old,i call that good service..SPECTRUM PHONE# please??
10-04-2011 | 11:32 PM
#8106
Tech Adept
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 168
Went to the track today, SC10 4x4 was fantastic, except..
I had my Sub-trim at 30L, which was a lil too much but could deal with it...
By the end of the day, i had to be 90L sub-trim to go straight...
Got home and looked at the servo, the screw going into the servo horn at the top(which i forgot to put locktight on), looks like it has backed out & is bent, I THINK???? It backed out just enough that the servo still had free range of motion, but anymore and it would cause binding while steering.
Could i have bent the MG at the top(outside) of the servo???
Taking apart 2morow..
THx
I had my Sub-trim at 30L, which was a lil too much but could deal with it...
By the end of the day, i had to be 90L sub-trim to go straight...
Got home and looked at the servo, the screw going into the servo horn at the top(which i forgot to put locktight on), looks like it has backed out & is bent, I THINK???? It backed out just enough that the servo still had free range of motion, but anymore and it would cause binding while steering.
Could i have bent the MG at the top(outside) of the servo???
Taking apart 2morow..
THx
10-04-2011 | 11:40 PM
#8108
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 15,743
From: RIP 'Chopper', 4/18/13 miss you bud:(
10-04-2011 | 11:42 PM
#8109
Tech Regular
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 323
From: Catalunya, Spain
Exactly, put a big capacitor in the bind channel (such as a 4.7mF 10V, 105º if you want to ensure quality) and issue sorted.
If you plan on running more stuff out of the BEC though, you'll need an aux BEC. Hobbyking has the Turnigy 8-15A UBEC that doesn't even get warm.
If you plan on running more stuff out of the BEC though, you'll need an aux BEC. Hobbyking has the Turnigy 8-15A UBEC that doesn't even get warm.
10-05-2011 | 02:27 AM
#8111
Tech Addict
iTrader: (7)
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 715
From: Sydney
Hi,
I just finished building and test run my new truck. It seems to sit pretty high. How can I adjust the ride height for front and rear? The manual mention something about the shocks but I'm not sure how to adjust? Do you need to change anything else?
Also what do the front and rear roll bar do? I found the steering to be very sensitive. Already dialed down to 75% with lots of expo. It seems to want to spin out at high speed ( not during acceleration, but straight down the main).
thx!
I just finished building and test run my new truck. It seems to sit pretty high. How can I adjust the ride height for front and rear? The manual mention something about the shocks but I'm not sure how to adjust? Do you need to change anything else?
Also what do the front and rear roll bar do? I found the steering to be very sensitive. Already dialed down to 75% with lots of expo. It seems to want to spin out at high speed ( not during acceleration, but straight down the main).
thx!
10-05-2011 | 03:41 AM
#8112
Hi,
I just finished building and test run my new truck. It seems to sit pretty high. How can I adjust the ride height for front and rear? The manual mention something about the shocks but I'm not sure how to adjust? Do you need to change anything else?
Also what do the front and rear roll bar do? I found the steering to be very sensitive. Already dialed down to 75% with lots of expo. It seems to want to spin out at high speed ( not during acceleration, but straight down the main).
thx!
I just finished building and test run my new truck. It seems to sit pretty high. How can I adjust the ride height for front and rear? The manual mention something about the shocks but I'm not sure how to adjust? Do you need to change anything else?
Also what do the front and rear roll bar do? I found the steering to be very sensitive. Already dialed down to 75% with lots of expo. It seems to want to spin out at high speed ( not during acceleration, but straight down the main).
thx!
10-05-2011 | 03:52 AM
#8113
Went to the track today, SC10 4x4 was fantastic, except..
I had my Sub-trim at 30L, which was a lil too much but could deal with it...
By the end of the day, i had to be 90L sub-trim to go straight...
Got home and looked at the servo, the screw going into the servo horn at the top(which i forgot to put locktight on), looks like it has backed out & is bent, I THINK???? It backed out just enough that the servo still had free range of motion, but anymore and it would cause binding while steering.
Could i have bent the MG at the top(outside) of the servo???
Taking apart 2morow..
THx
I had my Sub-trim at 30L, which was a lil too much but could deal with it...
By the end of the day, i had to be 90L sub-trim to go straight...
Got home and looked at the servo, the screw going into the servo horn at the top(which i forgot to put locktight on), looks like it has backed out & is bent, I THINK???? It backed out just enough that the servo still had free range of motion, but anymore and it would cause binding while steering.
Could i have bent the MG at the top(outside) of the servo???
Taking apart 2morow..
THx
10-05-2011 | 06:23 AM
#8114
Tech Regular
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 323
From: Catalunya, Spain
On my Savox 1251 and my previous BB BMS617DMG+HS the 4700uF 10V cap was more than enough.
I swapped it with a BEC because I plan on running some more stuff from it, and need the higher amp draw.
10-05-2011 | 07:05 AM
#8115
Depending on which BEC you have, and how much current it supplies, you should be able to move it from your 2wd to your 4wd.
No, you cannot splice it into the speed control cable that plugs into the receiver. If you power your receiver from both the speed control and the BEC, then you will likely damage your receiver, and possibly your servo and speed control (and transponder).
You can do this two different ways that I can think of.
a) remove the red wire from your servo plug and wire that to the BEC. This will power your servo directly from the external BEC. The ESC can still power the receiver and transponder.
b) remove the red wire from the ESC's receiver connector. This will prevent the ESC from powering the RX. Make a connector for the BEC that uses a regular RX plug, but only uses the red and black wires. Plug the BEC into any empty channel on the RX. many RXs even have a spot that is specifically for the BEC. This will power the RX, Servo, Transponder, and any extra stuff you have that would normally pull power from the RX connection.
No, you cannot splice it into the speed control cable that plugs into the receiver. If you power your receiver from both the speed control and the BEC, then you will likely damage your receiver, and possibly your servo and speed control (and transponder).
You can do this two different ways that I can think of.
a) remove the red wire from your servo plug and wire that to the BEC. This will power your servo directly from the external BEC. The ESC can still power the receiver and transponder.
b) remove the red wire from the ESC's receiver connector. This will prevent the ESC from powering the RX. Make a connector for the BEC that uses a regular RX plug, but only uses the red and black wires. Plug the BEC into any empty channel on the RX. many RXs even have a spot that is specifically for the BEC. This will power the RX, Servo, Transponder, and any extra stuff you have that would normally pull power from the RX connection.