How does it feel with the front end pinned to the topshaft in the rear?

symmetricon


Are you referring to the pinned rear hub disk ?

It feels the same , not much difference...

Pics?

And do you know if/when we're going to get this from AE?

Yes, and thanks. I figure the front doesnt slip much anyways, so....

The wink must be sarcasm.

Its a noticeable difference. corner speed is much improved.

not sarcasm , just not much of a difference or change ....

I believe Ae is still testing and working on the thing...

1fastpede, what do you mean by pinning the front?

Pin the rear slipper disc so it drives the front with out slip.

With just the clutch basket on the street, the truck would flip over (or wheelie) when you stab the throttle. With front pinned and clutch basket. truck goes straight like a bat out of hell.

On the track the speed carried through the corner is greatly improved and the truck overall drives different. its not the end all be all. but its one more addition to many that help tune this truck to be competitive.

With 60K front oil it caused me to snap a front cva pin. so i dropped to 30K like kinwald and no issues.

I did this because of the advice i was given by kinwald.

Picture attached.

I see, so you basically locked the front slipper? Interesting.

That might need yes or yes a chassis brace, because looks like the bet will get much more tension...


Interesting. Will try it once I tune the rest of the truck (basically the battery/weight config )


Thanks for the info!

How did you manage to drill the hole? More than a Dremel I would guess

http://rcshox.com/shoxshop/catalog/i...hp?cPath=23_26

there ya go!

Can you explain to me the theory behind both the garodiscs and the 2 stage shocks? What makes them both different than stock, or FT HD pads, and what makes the 2 stage shocks different? Both in construction and in real world performance?

Hey guys I'm currently running a Losi 8 with the Teckno conversion and love it. I am thinking about getting a 4x4 sc to play with also. Any thoughts on the upcoming rtr. I know everyone is going to say the kit is the way to go but, I'm not sure how much I am going to be able to put down the 8 and run the sc as my running time at the track is kinda limited. So if I find that I am not that into it it's only $389.00 (after tower coupon) that I've got in it instead of $700.00-$800.00 or so if I build it. If I find that I like it I can upgrade a little at a time. Question is do yall think it will be a decent drive and somewhat good handling and speed or is it gonna need a lot of upgrades right out of the box to make it decent. It's either gonna be buy the rtr in a couple of weeks when its in stock or wait till next spring when I can afford to build it and hope I like it.

Thanks for the input

^^ It depends what you're going to do with it. Racing or bashing?
If you're thinking racing, then you'll need at least-

Clutch basket= $35
Sway bars= $35
Racing tires= $45 (4)

Diff oils= 5k rear, 10k, or 20k or 30k front $15

This should get you started in the beginner 4wd sct class at most places.
The problem with the rtr is the motor, I don't think 550 4-pole motor is ROAR legal at this point, so not sure if you can race it...

Both the HD and stock pads glaze and do not hold power. If they slip they will eventually glaze and you will run out of adjustment. If you are going to run the HD pads you almost have to have the clutch basket, with the Garodisc you do not need the basket and these disc will slip and then grab like a real clutch. Even while they are slipping you can still pull the front wheels off the ground if thats how you have it set. There is less heat because they are not excessively slipping. And they do not wear out.

Too much to go into details about the pistons on this thread but in a nutshell you get adjustable compression and rebound, you no longer have to compromise pack with rebound, end result is more traction and significantly quicker and more consistent lap times. i have sold ALOT of these for the SC104x4 (actually my best seller) so i will let some of the users chime in on their results. in the meantime here is the thread on them:

http://www.rctech.net/forum/electric...they-work.html

hope this helps!