You will also need the rear T-plate for a SC10

Thank you sir,

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXFDV2&P=7

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXFDV1&P=7

AE #7440 vs. AE #7441

It's not the only part number but it seems to be the correct one as to not get the stiffer carbon chassis of old....$17 cheaper too

Wouldn't a little cleaning be worth not having to replace outdrives as often?

its not the chassis that matters. the 4.1 rear towers have more clearance for the battery strap. in a 4.1 it will fit much easier than an old "4" tower.

this was a rolling change because lipos are alittle taller than nimhs that the b4/t4 was designed for.

that being said, YES the gens will fit in the b4.1 chassis. in a t4, generally you dont run your battery all the way back (atleast 1 spacer in the rear)
but if you meant on a b4, yes it is tight, untill you change to a b4.1 rear tower.

not a paste / liquid... i would think a "dry" teflon grease would help some, but its not the in and out that wears them, its when you accel. it really isnt anything that will help this wear, if your outdrives are wearing alot, maybe using the rtr outdrives would increase the life (the lightweight/factory ones are alittle "softer")

I was speaking of plastic chassis'. The rtr and the ft have the same number for the plastic chassis. The only way, at this moment, to get a t4.1 chassis is to check eBay for the guys that buy a kit and part it all out.

Like Matt said, when they went to the "4.1" kits, they just began using what used to be the old school RTR plastic, so things like arms, towers, and chassis', just use the same old part numbers because they've always had the parts.

Most everyone that's been making the extended chassis' has been using the "RTR" (now FT) chassis, which is what they use on the new kits from the get go.

I do not run the current diff outdrives but the older style transmission.

http://www.teamassociated.com/parts/details/7678/

http://www.teamassociated.com/parts/details/9574/

plus the B4 rear T-plate. The older outdrives do not wear nearly as fast. i have had an "older" diff in for quite a while and has shown very little wear in the outdrives. the lightened stuff is way too soft. If you use the older diff, make sure to use the newer tan colored diff gear. The older black gear comes with the kit and it is crap.

Actually we have been using the original plastic chassis and not the newer 4.1 plastics. Reason is because that is all that available. I talked to AE's team manager a while back and he said that the reason they made all of their chassis' out of the old plastic is because that's all they had. So I'm guessing it's going to be awhile before we see the new .1 plastic chassis.

Yeah I guess I was just referring to using the part number as them, isn't the plastic itself the same though? Unless it's supposed to be the stiffness of the B44 plastic. I can't see them not selling any parts in the plastic if the new kits actually do have a different formula than what the original "plastic" was.

I've been running the older black gear from day one. What have you found that's wrong with it? What benefit would I get by replacing it with the tan gear?

I found that the black material was breaking down and turning to powder. It would load up between the teeth making it loud and not very smooth. replaced it with the tan gear and it was solved.

10-4 I rebuild my diff often (I sadistically enjoy it) so I'll check the condition of the gear next time I do.

You can not purchase the t4.1 chassis at this time due to the large stock of the original t4 chassis that still exists. This is a different material as the newer t4.1 plastic has more flex to it.