Not many.
#1 Sway Bars, don't even drive it without them.
#2 Aluminum wheel hexes. ASC, Tekno, anybody's.
#3 HT slipper pads at a minimum. Many on here, including me, recommend the clutch basket from Mac the Knife.
#4 An assortment of diff oils and shock fluids to experiment with. Kit stuff doesn't get it.
#5 Read this forum from page 1 BEFORE you build it! You have been warned.

Not gonna say must have, but they def. help especially if your going to use your sc10 for racing....

Factory Team Front/Rear swaybars
Clutch Basket
DE Wheels

Yes to all the other accessories listed. But most important is to stop at your local party store for some patience. You'll need it to get this truck right.

Best build tip I can give is to just build it with 2-3mm of washers under all four inner ballstuds to start. Tune from there.

I really need to read all 444 pages? Do me a favor and lock this thread till at least Wednesday, I got some homework to do.

I added front and rear spring kits to what you all have listed. Thanks. I hope to make this truck work.

Page 1 has been updated many times with the most critical information. If you do nothing else read that.

Good choice, though all you really would have needed were the front yellows.

You should have fewer problems now, than a lot of us had months ago. No one knew where exactly to go. But there is a great deal of info here to ease the way.

The above, and if they have them at your LHS and you are driving indoor, Yellow springs front, Yellow springs in the back as an option for more rotation. Cavalieri's set up sheet on the RC10 site is a good reference, although most are running a heavier diff fluid, 30-60k, in the front and around 5k in the back. Haven't run mine outdoor, this is for indoor high grip.

Is that you Patrick? This is Mike, I was the guy picking your brain! You gave the two local fast guys at SDRC a real run for their money. Good run!

Anyone else running a shorty lipo to help balance out there truck? I just did this and it seems pretty good. Ive added about 3.5 oz. to the lr and 1/2 oz. near the reciever that i had already had on the truck. Heres the numbers with no body LF: 569 RF: 553
LR: 685 RR: 694 With the body the truck weights exactly 6 lbs.


Dont mind the broken hardware for my FT top shaft. Finally got it to stop slipping but then it slipped a bunch lol.

You get enough power and run time?

Pakk- you work at Tracy Honda right? do yourself a favor and go straight to the saddle pack configuration. Start off with these settings, you'll be way ahead of the game!
http://www.rctech.net/forum/attachme...setup-2011.jpg

I have two of these trucks, one with stock battery placement config, the other with saddle packs, saddle pack config is predictable everytime out!

speaking of 'dark' side, i have a dark solution for those who dont want much slip and are refusing to spend much money. run HT pad inside and then run another HT pad on the outside. except, cover BOTH sides of the outside pad with electrical tape. that sticky rubber will grip to the slipper hub sooo much. the tape on the inside makes sure the pad doesnt slip with the spur gear. no, taping just one side will not work.

ok i just built mine. the kit went fine except a few places ( the bladders were missing in the shocks, and when the kit is complete i can feel a good amount pf flex in the rear or the chassis) is the chassis flex normal? and im gonna be running a novak 8.5 motor. i used the 19t pulley pinions to loosen up the belt a little bit cause it was wayyy to tight with the 20t. i used the 48p spur. which pinion should i use to run on a med size indoor with a very smooth but dusty surface? and whats the best baseline setup?

I'd like to thank all of you that contribute to this thread.

I've never really run a 4x4 SC truck, drove it pretty much like my 2wd, and was very happy with it.

Link to it's maiden run below:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=awIJDON7paY

First race for my new SC10 4x4. I was quite anxious to run this truck. It's the truck with the bright green right side and the purple/blue left side.

I highly recommend backing up and putting both 20t pulleys on. They're not intended for tension. The belt may seem tight with the 20s, but the belt will break in quickly. The 19t does not give the belt enough wrap and can cause premature wear and failure.

Just make sure that with the belt on and no pinion/spur mesh, that the truck rolls freely. This may mean your tensioners are set full loose, but again with a few runs will need a notch (maybe more) tighter.