You don't cut two T4 chassis to make one, you cut 11.1 mm out of the center section of one (4 chassis and then re-join the halves back together again.....

How about we cut two SC-10 chassis to make one uber-long chassis?

$400 plus shipping... plus box.. plus packing material.. plus paypal fees... plus replacement dremel parts.... plus cost of 1 sand paper sheet.

How many vent holes should be in buggy wheels ? The Proline wheels I bought had NO holes . Did not notice when I glued up the tires . I am thinking 2 holes directly across fom eachother should be used on the wheels .

My foams in the front are already lumpy !!! Not sure why , was thinking it was becuase of lack of vent holes ?

How do you prevent lumpy front foams ?

Sorry for the dumb questions , I am brand new to buggy . First track day yesterday at West Coast Raceway . SO much fun , super sick layout !!! Too many drivers though !!!! It was carnage , had to pull my buggy off and run my Losi 4x4 . Take that

Here in the next week I'll have a B4. I have no clue if it's a B4.1 or not.
But would it be cheaper to put B4.1 parts on a regular B4, or just buy a B4.1?

It's also gonna come with a LRP quantum speed control.
But I doubt i'll be running brushed motors in it...

Put holes in your tires with a leather punch (2), this way water from the tire bucket get expelled with centrifugal force. Holes on the wheels are unnecessary.

I'll check the slipper for sure. But i stiffened the suspension by going up to 45w oil. no change to pistons or springs because i liked the rebound and dampening. That helped a lot as the track is quite beat up, pot holes everywhere. even my lil brother has problems in his stadium truck cause there are so many deep pot holes. So i don't think i want to soften it back up. Do you think the goosebumps and slipper adj. will be enough?

If you have a really rutted, holed, beat up track, your car will perform much better with a softer suspension, with lighter damping.... not heaver.

Guys, I'm looking to buy a FT B4.1 roller in very good shape.

Might consider buying one with a 17.5 motor as well.

PM me if you have something that might fit the bill.

Looked in the sale threads, and most are already sold or not in good enough shape for my liking.

Thanks!

Holes in the tires is so old school, the water from the "tire bucket" gets to and breaks down the foams (even a couple of drops)...that is why there are holes in the rims now.

45wt oil is way too heavy for a buggy, that you would run in a super high bite and smooth track without jumps.

Try a lighter oil, suspension with a higher ride height to give the suspension a bit more travel, and remove, if any, shock limiters to increase your droop.

The name of the game is weight transfer and quick reacting dampening.

Weight transfer front to back for steering and traction.

Quicker reacting dampening for better handling over ruts, potholes, bumps, etc, this can only be achieved by softening up the suspension.

Has anyone used the castle 1410 motor in one of these? I'm thinking about picking up a b4.1ft and figured I would throw my act system in it. Would it be too much torque for such a light vehicle?

Thanks

You put the holes in the tire not the wheel. The reason for the holes was to get better traction, and not bounce like a tire on a bike or wheelbarrow when empty. The reason not to put the hole in the wheels is so dirt doesn't get inside, when dirt gets inside throght the wheel hole it has nowhere to go and gets stuck in the foam as the tire spins.

I plan on running a 8.5 novak in mine. I have a 6.5 GTB system that I was
saving for a Custom Works Sprinter when I get one. 6.5 I think would be
too much motor in a 2WD buggy unless it's converted into an EDM.
Oval doesnt matter, when your doing offroad with jumps it's better to run
a slower motor most of the time. Even a 7.5 is overkill in some circumstances.
Dont know much about the castle stuff, so I cant help you there.