Knock on wood Mine has been to Delta R/C chassis still intac , It has been to Outback Raceway Still intact ,Has been to Cap city still intact , And has been to LSR Speedway still intact .But I did witness A B4.1 chassis at the end of the Amain at cap city Snap right at the back of the front bulkhead .

I have B4.L I'm trying on Thursday I have another chassis I'm taking over to a buddy cutting down ..that one will get tested During the Nats at a Private Facility as I'am not going to the Nats ! LoL $85 A CLASS. FT

It looks like you have a Havoc Pro Sc in your buggy . How do you like it ? Is it smooth and fast ?

Novac is near my house . So when it breaks I can just drop it off .

It is both. It's worked 100% since I got it (sometime in April/May). I had to remove the fan on the heatsink to fit it into the buggy body, so it does not run as cool as the one in my SC10. It can temp all the way up to 150ish after a long practice run, while the motor temps at around 150-160. I'm geared 75/30 with 30 deg timing on the ESC.

I have nothing against Novak, but from the stories on the forum, as well as having a few locals with the same issues, I'm a bit weary. I'd have gone with a Tekin RS if I was more knowledgeable when I first started off, just for peace of mind.

The main reason I purchased the Novak back then was due to the fact that it was sold as a combo with the motor(s) I wanted, and the price.

Stock oil, green slime. they compress but stay when lifted off the bench after 20 min or so. Like the o rings are grabbing or something.
Hinges are smooth.
The green slime was sort of clear after tare down.
Does the oil break down the green slime?
My o rings we're installed 4 months ago and raced only a handful of times.
Heres the lab:

<a href="http://s1190.photobucket.com/albums/z455/tommy911t/?action=view&amp;current=93f48db2.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1190.photobucket.com/albums/z455/tommy911t/93f48db2.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>

I watched the vid(thanks for the link) and im going to follow to a t.
Also, this forum is super helpful, thanks a lot.
BTW are folks using the carbon t.1 chassis or the stock plastic chassis?

HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA

The red silicone o-rings can swell after a while which can make the shock shaft stick. A package of replacements is like $2. I recently replaced mine the the front of the b4 after noticing that the shaft would stick when I tightening the plastic o-ring retainer. I put the new o-ring in tightened it up and smooth as good be. I'm not sure how long mine were in there though.

I just rebuilt the shocks on one of my SC10s with Kyosho grooved o rings and the white plastic spacer from the old AE rebuild kit. No leaks and no sticky o-rings. I think someone linked this here in the past:

http://www.shortbusracers.com/2011/0...shock-leaking/

FYI I built my B4.1 and the other SC10 shocks the same way, and I haven't had to rebuild them since April(ish).

Well if I had them I would love to try them. I have messed with the diff, and built it with sanded rings, and a sauce I have had for awhile and had it tight at first, broke it in on some carpet, and then removed it to feel it and check the tightness, and then loosened it an 1/8th. Should I go looser?


Im around the stock setup with minor changes, running 30wt F, 27.5wt R. Where I race, I have been going back and forth between Pro-Line Scrubs and the Jconcepts Rips Super softs, and Gigabites or Scrubs for the rear in the same compound. The track is either Wet, or dry, and right now its started to have minor ruts. I have tried alot to get an between but nothing I do works.

Any of you guys use any after market screw kits? I was looking at the lunsford ones and they look great.

what i actually did was went to a local fastenol store and ordered a bunch of screws...i like them a lot...never have had one strip out

I did as the other did, and picked some up at the hardware store, I use all stainless at the top of the car, and the regulars on the bottom. I also do the same on my TC, all of the bottom screws being regular allens instead of stainless keeps the weight low on the car!

There are 2 different materials available there is the standard composite plastic which is more flexible and there is also a carbon chassis that is more rigid and more "aggressive".

I spoke with someone at AE today and they said that for the worlds the team guys made these long chassis with both the composite and carbon materials. The person I spoke with was not able to tell me which material was used for the actual races. I was also notified that they used 2 B4.1 chassis to make the long version and not a T4 chassis cut down. I'm not sure what the difference there would be or why they would do it that way but I found that to be very interesting

Just wanted to fill you guys in on my discussion

Talk to you soon

Ryan

I was told that the chassis used at worlds were the older t4 plastic because that is what they had in stock at the time. I am not sure whether the Ryan's used this or not but I know that Brent did.

The b4.1/t4.1 plastic is more flexible than the original. I only said that it seemed like it was the same because i thought enough time had passes to cycle through all of the older plastic chassis and be replaced with the .1 plastics. All of the truck chassis that i have bought / ordered are still the older plastic.

Picking up the t4.1 chassi today and Will try to work on it later, i will post pics..

I am trying the Kyosho black springs in the rear and the preload collar has run out of threads trying to achieve 24mm. The ride height is 23-23mm when the threads run out. any suggestions? I put the yellow K springs on and was able to get the 24mm ride height with a few threads to spare since it is a stiffer spring.