2 stage pistons...Do they work?
#136
they would have to be custom.
first batch should be arriving within the next couple of days so i am starting a tuning page on the site.
http://www.rcshox.com/piston-set-ups/
first batch should be arriving within the next couple of days so i am starting a tuning page on the site.
http://www.rcshox.com/piston-set-ups/
Im running current the 1.2 with 30 in the front of my Caster and 1.3 with 30 in the rear. Levels out evenly and hug turns and handles jumps level and rarely need to have throttle input to level her back. I cant wait to get these and start testing them out.
#137
Great first article Marcus, you took the thoughts right out of my head of how i was going to tune mine.
Im running current the 1.2 with 30 in the front of my Caster and 1.3 with 30 in the rear. Levels out evenly and hug turns and handles jumps level and rarely need to have throttle input to level her back. I cant wait to get these and start testing them out.
Im running current the 1.2 with 30 in the front of my Caster and 1.3 with 30 in the rear. Levels out evenly and hug turns and handles jumps level and rarely need to have throttle input to level her back. I cant wait to get these and start testing them out.
#138
Tech Master
iTrader: (5)
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 1,850
Installed the pistons in my DESC410R tonight, and they feel good. Totally guessing at what oils to run, so I started with 30wt AE front and rear. Haven't changed any holes in the compression or rebound discs yet. The front suspension feel light, it compresses quickly and springs back more quickly. The rear suspension feels pretty stiff, it compresses and springs back much slower than the front (still springs back quicker than it compresses). At this point, I'm not sure if I should a) go to 35 wt AE front oil and compare front and rear, b) go to 25 wt AE rear and compare the feel again, or c) leave the oils alone and drill the rear pistons out to 1.2 compression and 1.3 rebound. I know MW says its not a valid test of suspension, but the drop on the desk test makes the front bottom out and the rear doesn't. With these new pistons, should we always, or at least try to always, run the same weight oil front and rear?
Looking to see if ManisWorx has a more informed suggestion.
The truck won't hit a track until maybe Friday night, if it doesn't rain for the 3rd Friday night in a row.
Looking to see if ManisWorx has a more informed suggestion.
The truck won't hit a track until maybe Friday night, if it doesn't rain for the 3rd Friday night in a row.
#139
Installed the pistons in my DESC410R tonight, and they feel good. Totally guessing at what oils to run, so I started with 30wt AE front and rear. Haven't changed any holes in the compression or rebound discs yet. The front suspension feel light, it compresses quickly and springs back more quickly. The rear suspension feels pretty stiff, it compresses and springs back much slower than the front (still springs back quicker than it compresses). At this point, I'm not sure if I should a) go to 35 wt AE front oil and compare front and rear, b) go to 25 wt AE rear and compare the feel again, or c) leave the oils alone and drill the rear pistons out to 1.2 compression and 1.3 rebound. I know MW says its not a valid test of suspension, but the drop on the desk test makes the front bottom out and the rear doesn't. With these new pistons, should we always, or at least try to always, run the same weight oil front and rear?
Looking to see if ManisWorx has a more informed suggestion.
The truck won't hit a track until maybe Friday night, if it doesn't rain for the 3rd Friday night in a row.
Looking to see if ManisWorx has a more informed suggestion.
The truck won't hit a track until maybe Friday night, if it doesn't rain for the 3rd Friday night in a row.go bigger holes in the rear right off the bat (1.2/1.3) and stay with the 30 wt. the frt and R should feel about the same. if you compress the chassis all the way down and release they should both come up at the same time. Shoot for 30/35 wt so that when you change tracks you should only need to change oils to match. so you dont want to set your truck up with 25wt because you dont really have anywhere to go lower (20 is too thin for anything). on the front sounds like you may want to go to 35wt. Soooooo
Front 35wt 1.1/1.2
Rear 30wt 1.2/1.3
try it and let us know how it feels
#141
im going to go more into this on the site but i know you are chomping at the bits!!
go bigger holes in the rear right off the bat (1.2/1.3) and stay with the 30 wt. the frt and R should feel about the same. if you compress the chassis all the way down and release they should both come up at the same time. Shoot for 30/35 wt so that when you change tracks you should only need to change oils to match. so you dont want to set your truck up with 25wt because you dont really have anywhere to go lower (20 is too thin for anything). on the front sounds like you may want to go to 35wt. Soooooo
Front 35wt 1.1/1.2
Rear 30wt 1.2/1.3
try it and let us know how it feels
go bigger holes in the rear right off the bat (1.2/1.3) and stay with the 30 wt. the frt and R should feel about the same. if you compress the chassis all the way down and release they should both come up at the same time. Shoot for 30/35 wt so that when you change tracks you should only need to change oils to match. so you dont want to set your truck up with 25wt because you dont really have anywhere to go lower (20 is too thin for anything). on the front sounds like you may want to go to 35wt. Soooooo
Front 35wt 1.1/1.2
Rear 30wt 1.2/1.3
try it and let us know how it feels

#146
Nytrydr, im gonna have to make the static shocks! cant pass up on that, im thinking 7mm of adjustment so you can get close to where your ride height is. i will try and cut some prototypes before the end of the week!
#147
FYI some of you will notice that there are color markings on your pistons. i do this because it is easier to identify.
RED=1.0mm
Yellow=1.1mm
Blue=1.2mm
Green=1.3mm
silver=1.4mm
i suggest we all follow this code
RED=1.0mm
Yellow=1.1mm
Blue=1.2mm
Green=1.3mm
silver=1.4mm
i suggest we all follow this code
#149
Tech Master
iTrader: (5)
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 1,850
I was also going to ask about pistons for the S811, but wanted to get the Durango squared away first and see how much improvement the pistons make. The shocks are 16mm bore, with a 3mm center mounting hole. I'm currently running 8 hole pistons front and rear, all holes drilled out with a #55 drill bit. Serpent also sells 6 hole and 10 hole pistons. I'd have to measure the actual OD of a piston to be precise, and the thickness of the mounting step on the shock shaft. Or I could send you a shock shaft with a piston on it to measure from.



