RC10B4.1 FT/WC
07-26-2011 | 08:58 PM
#4351
I will find out what brand it is from my buddy who does them, then post it up. I know he does NOT like to use the stuff because it is soooo nasty! Breathing apparatus, gloves and the whole nine! The paint falls off the AE springs with this stuff, but the K springs are a different deal all together. That paint is flippen on them K springs! But it works good though, here is my old RB5 SP2, and my 4.1 with green rears still on it.
Last edited by bilster44; 07-26-2011 at 09:20 PM. Reason: To add attachments
07-26-2011 | 09:35 PM
#4356
Tech Addict
iTrader: (9)
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 711
Well I ran the B4.1LE today complete with the Kyosho springs. Scoring was not hooked up but I can tell that the car is faster. I was able to drive the car much more aggresively. I let some of the other guys try it and they were scambling for old T4 chassis's to cut up.
The car was way more stable in and out of the corners and handled the bumps and jumps with ease.
I like alot of steering on all my cars and this car does everything I wanted it to.
Turns in well and has excellent forward grip. I can tell you that the car didn't like to be under driven. The harder I drove the more stable the car seemed.
Thanks to Matt and Cherry for the tips. I kind of have a combo of both of your ideas.
The car was way more stable in and out of the corners and handled the bumps and jumps with ease.
I like alot of steering on all my cars and this car does everything I wanted it to.
Turns in well and has excellent forward grip. I can tell you that the car didn't like to be under driven. The harder I drove the more stable the car seemed.Thanks to Matt and Cherry for the tips. I kind of have a combo of both of your ideas.
07-26-2011 | 10:00 PM
#4358
Tech Addict
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 578
From: Santa Rosa,CA
07-26-2011 | 10:02 PM
#4359
07-26-2011 | 11:06 PM
#4360
Tech Legend
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 22,595
From: TRCR Modified Driver
I read your instructions on lengthening the B4 and was having a hard time following. I appreciate you taking the time to explain the procedure. Is there anyway you could add more detail to the original instructions and maybe a couple more pics? Any help would be appreciated. 
Is there anyway you could add more detail to the original instructions and maybe a couple more pics? Any help would be appreciated. Which part of the instructions do you not understand ?
I did misspell fine line ..
07-26-2011 | 11:06 PM
#4361
07-27-2011 | 04:33 AM
#4363
Tech Regular
iTrader: (7)
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 316
Here the setup I was running last night on a hard blown out 10th scale track.
Keep in mind I like my cars super aggressive in the corners and use little or no brake.
Front:
Shock -27.5 oil - #2 piston - Kyosho orange spring
Position - inner tower - outer arm
Caster - 25° (I just like them better than 30°)
Link- inner castor block and inner tower - 1 washer on tower
Ride Height - arms level
Note: I run a GT2 front bulkhead instead of nose weight, weight about 1/2 oz more than stock
Rear
Shock -27.5 oil - #2 piston - Kyosho dark yellow spring
Position - inner tower - inner arm
Link- middle on C tower and inner on unground U brace - 0 washers on U brace
Anti Squat/Toe - 2° anti sqaut - 3.5° toe block - 0° aluminum hubs
Ride Height - bones level
Other
FT rear trans weight
1/4 oz in each triangle
4 nickles(yes nickles) behind the battery - weight about 3/4 oz (US nickles only - Canadian are lighter)
Probable around 2.5 total weight added.
Battery position middle
From what I've tested these new generation cars like weight on them so don't be afraid to throw some lead on it. It really settles the car down.
Like I said this setup will turn in without braking. If you use brakes them you'll want to either increase from oil or ride height or both.
Keep in mind I like my cars super aggressive in the corners and use little or no brake.
Front:
Shock -27.5 oil - #2 piston - Kyosho orange spring
Position - inner tower - outer arm
Caster - 25° (I just like them better than 30°)
Link- inner castor block and inner tower - 1 washer on tower
Ride Height - arms level
Note: I run a GT2 front bulkhead instead of nose weight, weight about 1/2 oz more than stock
Rear
Shock -27.5 oil - #2 piston - Kyosho dark yellow spring
Position - inner tower - inner arm
Link- middle on C tower and inner on unground U brace - 0 washers on U brace
Anti Squat/Toe - 2° anti sqaut - 3.5° toe block - 0° aluminum hubs
Ride Height - bones level
Other
FT rear trans weight
1/4 oz in each triangle
4 nickles(yes nickles) behind the battery - weight about 3/4 oz (US nickles only - Canadian are lighter)
Probable around 2.5 total weight added.
Battery position middle
From what I've tested these new generation cars like weight on them so don't be afraid to throw some lead on it. It really settles the car down.
Like I said this setup will turn in without braking. If you use brakes them you'll want to either increase from oil or ride height or both.
Last edited by JW91; 07-27-2011 at 06:24 AM.