Which is why Im glad to have RC Tech. Ive learned so much here about setup, and saved a lot of money by buying the right stuff the first time. My truck drives just like my 2wd, and in a straight line its by far the fastest thing out there.

no

it doesn't take a day. if you have a power drill it should take 5 minute to get servo out. without maybe 10. only 10 screws

thanks!

I don't get why people paint the underbodys... You can't see it while running and it would just block any esc warning lights or spotting an issue with the truck at a glance.

I havent ever had a hex fall off... But i'm still getting the new AE ones cuz they are blue and BLUE IS BETTER!!! lol, haha.

+1

Fwiw, one of my teammates in the endurance race is a Losi guy and one of the best non-pro 4x4 drivers in our area IMO and he was matching his SCTE times with it on the first pack. And he was a few tenths off that yesterday with a detuned 3800 setup to run 2.4 hrs. My other teammate also drives a Losi and is only a few tenths slower than this guy, but was running the same laptimes in the sc10 as he does with his SCT-E.

The truck is at least as fast as the competition (and with less power), and more adjustable, for better or worse. Let's face it, if someone is running well in one make, they generally won't try something else, or at least not long enough to realize any potential. There aren't many fast sc10 drivers down here yet for that very reason. And its also the same reason you won't see any serious criticism of the other brands from me.

Are you guys using servo spacers or using the kit servo adjustment? I found that if I tighten the 4 servo screws enough to keep it snug, the "L" shaped pieces just start bending in or collapsing. They can't take any force at all, poor design IMO.

So I'm running the LRP X12L 4.5 in my sc10 4x4 on a 1/8th scale track and have some gearing questing. I'm currently geared at 11/62 and after a 5 minut run this weekend, the motor was at 235. What should I do gearing wise to get the temps down? try 60 or 58 with a 12? I know there are the gearing charts but those arent helping any right now. Thanks for any help you guys can give me.

Excellent, got the 7.2volt power drill just need to get the 3mm bits.

Thanx!

I painted mine just because I thought it looked good black. Mine would get so dirty/dusty that I wouldn't be able to see through it even when clear.

Same here, never had an issue with the plastic ones coming off. I already have the blue aluminum ones on my rig. They're pretty sweet.

IMO it sounds like you're undergeared. Try going up a tooth or two at least and temp it after a couple minutes. Undergearing brushless motors is just as bad as overgearing them.

you only need 1.5 2.0 and 2.5 bits for the whole truck. no 3.0

Ditto. I run a 5.5t with a 16/62 gearing and I'm only hitting 150-160 on a large 8th scale track with long straights. Goign from 14t to 16t didn't change my temps at all...14t may have been slightly undergeared, and 16t might be slightly overgeared to keep the temps as low as possible for my truck and track, but I like the extra speed I get, and temps are still well within acceptable limits.

Though 235 sounds hot, even for an undergeared LRP. (LRP motors run a little warmer than Tekin or Novak motors in the same setup.)

I would check for binding on the hubs (wheel nuts tightened too tight) as well as in the gearbox/motor plate. The 3 screws that hold the gearbox together can protrude and rub on the internal components of the main driveline.

Lastly, how tight is your belt? If you run it too tight, that can add extra heat as well.

With a 4.5 geared so low, you would have so much torque you may not notice this other binding...