RC10B4.1 FT/WC
#4276

Advise to see what your team mates are using first ....
also
check the team B4.1 set-ups posted on www.rc10.com
Fastest 2w Buggy & 4w buggy in the world ...
#4277
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 15,743
From: RIP 'Chopper', 4/18/13 miss you bud:(
difficult to tune a ride on the net....
Advise to see what your team mates are using first ....
also
check the team B4.1 set-ups posted on www.rc10.com
Fastest 2w Buggy & 4w buggy in the world ...

Advise to see what your team mates are using first ....
also
check the team B4.1 set-ups posted on www.rc10.com
Fastest 2w Buggy & 4w buggy in the world ...


Last edited by racer1812; 07-25-2011 at 06:03 AM.
#4278
R/C Tech Elite Member
iTrader: (43)
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 1,071
From: Richmond, Ky
Im running Maifields setup from that site, not really much difference between any of them in my opinion. Ive driven a couple 22s and they turn in really well at any speed and can be pushed much harder than I can the 4.1. With the backyard style tracks we run here the Losi's longer chassis keeps it stable in the rough. I managed to take TQ but in the main I needed to push the 4.1 harder but it just wouldn't take it. Gonna order a T4 chassis and cut it down and see how it works out.
#4279
Standard Weight for a B4.1
To my understanding it is:
-1oz in front of the tranny (the FT Lipo weight is only .60 ounce)
-1/4 oz in each rear triangle (total 1/2oz)
-1/2 oz next to the receiver to offset weight L/R
For a total of at least 2oz in the car.
Any weight up front is more user preference. I dont know how you can fit 2.5oz in front of the tranny? This is what we have always ran at our local tracks (Competition Hobbies / SRS)
To my understanding it is:
-1oz in front of the tranny (the FT Lipo weight is only .60 ounce)
-1/4 oz in each rear triangle (total 1/2oz)
-1/2 oz next to the receiver to offset weight L/R
For a total of at least 2oz in the car.
Any weight up front is more user preference. I dont know how you can fit 2.5oz in front of the tranny? This is what we have always ran at our local tracks (Competition Hobbies / SRS)
#4280
As soon as these are released, the R10pro is going in my B4.1 pronto! Orion lipos and motors are great and this will round out the package.
http://www.redrc.net/2011/07/team-or...rs/#more-45379
http://www.redrc.net/2011/07/team-or...rs/#more-45379
#4281
okay... dumb question but I gotta ask -
What is the proper way to rebuild the shocks for my new b4.1
give me a link or just tell me... how do I set them up with rebound or no rebound... how high do I fill them up
(im using 30wt. front and 25 wt. rear - indoor clay track)
bleeder screw... ?!?! Please help
the other cars on the track look so much smoother than mine
thank you in advance for any reply
What is the proper way to rebuild the shocks for my new b4.1
give me a link or just tell me... how do I set them up with rebound or no rebound... how high do I fill them up
(im using 30wt. front and 25 wt. rear - indoor clay track)
bleeder screw... ?!?! Please help
the other cars on the track look so much smoother than mine

thank you in advance for any reply
I would love to type this out but a.e makes a good video heres the link-
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-hU6B9Z62hw
you dont really have to let them sit but it does make less bleading in the long run. I do sometimes and they feel the same, when you clean the use q tips and a shot of moterspray.
#4283
The standard T4.1 chassis is too long and will make the car feel lazy. You want the happy medium between the two by cutting it down. End result is a chassis that is 8mm longer than stock. I'm going to wait to see if a factory chassis will be released before i do a cut chassis.
#4284
Hey guys I have a quick question. My b4 tends to plow on low to medium speed corners when on the power. I run on a high bite clay track where rear traction isn't an issue. What can I do to make the car rotate, turn better on power? This has been driving me nuts for a couple weeks now and has got to the point where I have to nail the brakes to lock up the rear and whip the back end around and hopefully come out facing the exit as straight as possible. It simply will not turn. On high speed turns, it dialed though.
Shocks are layed down front and rear. 27 1/2 weight oil all around, 25mm ride heigh all around. Short camber links in the front, middle in the rear. I run soft aka rebars on all fours.
Shocks are layed down front and rear. 27 1/2 weight oil all around, 25mm ride heigh all around. Short camber links in the front, middle in the rear. I run soft aka rebars on all fours.
#4285
Hey guys I have a quick question. My b4 tends to plow on low to medium speed corners when on the power. I run on a high bite clay track where rear traction isn't an issue. What can I do to make the car rotate, turn better on power? This has been driving me nuts for a couple weeks now and has got to the point where I have to nail the brakes to lock up the rear and whip the back end around and hopefully come out facing the exit as straight as possible. It simply will not turn. On high speed turns, it dialed though.
Shocks are layed down front and rear. 27 1/2 weight oil all around, 25mm ride heigh all around. Short camber links in the front, middle in the rear. I run soft aka rebars on all fours.
Shocks are layed down front and rear. 27 1/2 weight oil all around, 25mm ride heigh all around. Short camber links in the front, middle in the rear. I run soft aka rebars on all fours.
http://www.petitrc.com/setup/associa..._LIR201009.pdf
#4286
My B4.1 felt pretty good at that track on Saturday. I was running Pink Tapers and BK Bars though, which are pretty much ghosted/slicks now. I'm using this setup to the T, with 1 degree of front toe out:
http://www.petitrc.com/setup/associa..._LIR201009.pdf
http://www.petitrc.com/setup/associa..._LIR201009.pdf
#4287
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 2,766
From: Houston
Hey guys I have a quick question. My b4 tends to plow on low to medium speed corners when on the power. I run on a high bite clay track where rear traction isn't an issue. What can I do to make the car rotate, turn better on power? This has been driving me nuts for a couple weeks now and has got to the point where I have to nail the brakes to lock up the rear and whip the back end around and hopefully come out facing the exit as straight as possible. It simply will not turn. On high speed turns, it dialed though.
Shocks are layed down front and rear. 27 1/2 weight oil all around, 25mm ride heigh all around. Short camber links in the front, middle in the rear. I run soft aka rebars on all fours.
Shocks are layed down front and rear. 27 1/2 weight oil all around, 25mm ride heigh all around. Short camber links in the front, middle in the rear. I run soft aka rebars on all fours.
#4288
#4290
You need to shorten the rear camber links. You need a higher rear roll center. You could also use a rear sway bar or potentially even both depending on how well it gets set up. Another option is to run long camber links in front. Typically rear motor buggies like a much lower roll center in front than rear. The rear needs more roll stiffness than the front since far more weight is back there than the front.



