Like it has been said already but I TOTALLY agree with this statement. I only drive S/C my 2wd sc10 and my 4x4 sc10. if i drive my 4x4 like my 2wd its so smooth, but if i try to force it around the track it makes me pay for it. I love the 4x4 and if they had 2 classes for the 4x4's i would sell my 2wd and get another one.

guessing the EXI Hobbypartz 226/227? I know i tried one of these for about 2+ weeks in mine. Worked well for about 14 days.....then started oscillating badly

I run a 540 6.5 LRP and love it. However I pull 180 to 190 in a 6 minute session

I plan on getting the Tekin 540 4 pole when they come out though

My 226 shook out of the box trying to center. I still ran it a few times but with the truck off the ground it was embarrassing. It finally stripped out the "A" servo horn which never fit snug to begin with. The 227 has been great in my 2wd.

I have a tekin rs pro and 550 5.5 motor. How many capacitors should i have on esc? They are the 16v 33uf caps. If i use two, how do i mount both of them? Any advice would help, im new to 4x4 scene

thats why I love the clicker loose.
That way you have to approach every turn and jump like a 2wd truck .

when you get this truck in a smooth pace. it drives the best.

Had a great night @ West Coast RC, the 4x4 was tearing it up,
runnin the castle 1410 w/MMP -32pitch spur/16pinion- Gens 5000mah & Savox 1257tg. I was having no prob hanging with the 1/8 scale buggies, and I really enjoy driving this truck. Like most people say, it does drive a little twitchy and sensitive, but also coming from the sc102wd it just feels "right" to me.

I agree.

Mine too, unless i start driving like an idiot and being over aggressive.

Bahahahaha nice. you dont wanna know which one i bought Coaster. oh btw my teams losi broke for the enduro....looks like ill be a free agent in 4x4sc cause i sure aint using mine.


Yup, did that on this one but does it count that ive tried two 540 motors before just realizing that i want that upper torque of the 550. im running a airtronics 94931

Couldnt agree more, im running the clicker aswell. Doesnt hurt that im mainly a 2wd buggy driver

Some are running 540's, 7.5 should be good. ive tried a 5.5 540 lrp and currently running a 8.5 540 lrp both have the 13mm rotor. Unfortunately ive striped out one too many spurs running the 5.5 since in order to keep the temps down i had to run a 93/13 48P which resulted in easily stripped spurs if a wasnt smooth but temps were pretty good at 155 after 6 minutes and it was still one of the fastest trucks down the long straight. Had to switch to the 8.5 right before my second A last wednesday night, guessed on the gearing, went to 32P and tried a 62/13 since i ran out of 48P spurs. After 7 minute mian it was like 180, i was a noticeably slower down the straight but still ran fast laps with it. My advice to you is start with a 93/16 or 15. I dont think you will have the problems i was experiencing with damaging spurs since those two spurs are considerably larger.
I like the idea of the 540 due to the savings in weight but i think they require some sort of dremeling and a nice fan set-up right in front of them so they can be efficient and powerful threw a whole race.

I am assembling a SC10 4X4. I have the tensioners set by the book, rear: 3 front: 4 and the belt moves fine. I went ahead and assembled the slipper and tightened down the nut to 3.5 mm of shaft past the top of the nut. The spur gear barely rotates, I took it all apart and double checked everything. I loosened up the rear slipper nut considerably where I think the nut is about flush. The spur gear is still very tight to turn. I want to know if this is normal and will break in so to speak. I have two SC10 4X4's, but the other one was bought as a roller, so this is my first build on this platform. Any advice?

ps: I have been in RC for a "while" uhhhh, in fact I have two RC8T's and AE instructions on that at least tells you what "bag" corresponds with the area you are dumping the parts out for. These instructions are very....crappy? It is a awesome bit of engineering though!

have you tried seting the belt looser? the suggested stock setting is far to tight imo.

I have my belt set loose, runing a clutch basket(of course) and the clicker locked, and only have one weekend on it, without the belt skipping, and I also thought it sucked that the instructions didn't include which bag to dig into.

Do you have a motor in it or is it free spinning? It might just be tight magnets

Or

Do you have the wheels on? A pin might have slipped out of the CVAs and when ou tightened them down it locked up. Try taking them off and try again of how free it is

+1 on the crappy instructions compared to their past kits. I ran the belt tensioners at 1 and 1 and tightened it up as the belt broke in.

Is it the transmission? Remove the spur and bent and see if the trans rotates freely. The case is a tight fit and it can work in your hands but bind up after you tighten the screws and motor plate down. If that is the case back them off a bit and just snug them (with locktite on ones going into motor plate)

Mine has loosened up nicely since, but you don't want all that heat/friction.